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Thread: Cartridge set up tip

  1. #21
    Join Date: Jan 2012

    Location: Leeds UK

    Posts: 13
    I'm Alasdair.

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    I have a Mayware unipivot arm, which is tricky to set with perfect azimuth. I found that a spirit level is a poor tool for the job: it is inaccurate, its weight upsets the arm alignment and errors in turntable and arm levelling can add to one another. However what matters is not whether the arm is level - it is whether it is parallel with the record surface and this can be checked accurately with an apparatus that is easy to make and costs nothing. Take a small piece of paper and fold it so that it will stand up on a record. Place the stylus close to the edge of a stationary record, stand the piece of paper alongside the headshell and mark a horizontal line on it level with the top of the headshell. Then stand the piece of paper near the far edge of the record and sight it again across the top of the headshell. Adjust the arm until they line up in both positions. If the top of the headshell aligns within 1mm of the line on the paper, you have aligned the azimuth of the arm parallel to the record to within a quarter of a degree, which is better than can be done with a spirit level and should be good enough for anyone. Simples!

  2. #22
    Join Date: Feb 2020

    Location: Huddersfield

    Posts: 12
    I'm Martin.

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    Re. using the little bubble levels, I found that the tiny ones are crap, but the small ones i.e. about 1cm in diameter, are fine and work well. And all I do is weigh mine (it's 1.4gms) and adjust the counterweight accordingly to ensure no undue downforce is being applied to the cantilever. Doing this at least gives you confidence that you are starting from a level position in terms of armtube (VTA and azimuth).

    Next, re. using sound analysis, how do you know any observed channel imbalance isn't down to cartridge manufacture inaccuracy e.g. misaligned magnets, unequal/uneven coil windings (both of which are not that uncommon)?

    In my experience you can only address azimuth with any confidence of accuracy via magnified head on visual observation on a mirrored surface (and don't forget to set A/S to 0!)
    Source components: S.A.M. Renegade turntable; S.A.M. Callista tonearm, Dynavector DV20x2L cartridge; Jelco SA370H tonearm, Clearaudio Virtuoso Wood / Audio Technica VM750SH / Grado Prestige Blue3 / Garratt P77i cartridges

    Amplification: Primare i22

    Loudspeakers: RMB 12/3s

    Other hi-fi bits: Sutherland Ph3D phonostage; Pro-ject Phonobox S2 phonostage

  3. #23
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: brighton uk.

    Posts: 4,737
    I'm jamie.

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    i agree, using an ociloscope will get you there but as you say you dont know if the sylus is aligned to the colis,i use the scope to get me in a very small ball park along with various loupes and finally my ears.
    My System
    John Wood KT88 Amp.
    Paradise Phono Stage
    Sony TTS-8000 Turntable.
    PMAT-1010 MK6 Tonearm.
    Ortofon Cadenza Bronze
    Sony X555ES Cd Player
    Yamaha NS1000m Speakers

  4. #24
    Join Date: Oct 2020

    Location: Scotland

    Posts: 12
    I'm William.

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    For setting azimuth initially i sit my headshell flat on top of the azimuth block which sits on top of an old lp. Not as the maker intended but better than using the thin black lines. Then tighten the screw on the headshell just enouph to secure. Then return arm to cradle and tighten fully. Gives a good starting point. Audiomods have little cylinders which are very useful in different sizes which give a good starting point for azimuth & vta when the headshell sits flat on top of the cylinder. Choose one which matches manufacturer cartridge height when in play. I've used an Arche headshell, by far the best tool for dialing in a cartridge with micro adjustment of all parameters, bit of patience and you can't miss. For me it's good value to hear a top MC as it should sound. Must admit i've also bought/borrowed a fozgometer in the past using it once and returning for refund.
    On VTA ; my advice is don't always assume you're hearing shrill highs because vta is too high as it more often than not is alignment that's out. I set azimuth close then vta to level then alignment has to be perfect before returning to perfect vta & azimuth. Also if vta is well off, assuming too much bass or too much treble is a result of too low or too high setting can baffle as i've heard too much bass when the arm is way too high and conversly too much treble when the pillar is way down.

    For me, alignment is most critical, then azimuth, anti skate (on less than 2g trackers), tracking weight then vta, finally overhang which is over egged as even 1mm out doesn't make much difference. I've used my fr66s over a 5mm range and not heard a whole lot of difference.

    It can be a maddening process, no exercise on The Cube tv programme comes close and at times i've sworn my next cartridge will be a spherical type stylus no matter how it sounds.
    Or just go to a dealer but ask them how they fulfill the fitting as you might find your toolbox and skills are better than theirs.

    Cheers,

    William
    Denon DP80, Fidelity Research FR66s, Koetsu RSP. Allnic t2000, h1202. Acousense streamer, Dac2/Afi/psu. Harbeth HL5 plus. Cardas cables.

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