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Thread: Audio Note Push Pull and Tannoys

  1. #1
    Join Date: Mar 2020

    Location: Lancashire

    Posts: 4
    I'm Paul.

    Default Audio Note Push Pull and Tannoys

    I think half the World is involved in trying to sort my amp and Speaker match (even the wife is offering sympathy) so I thought it was only fair to ask AOS.

    I ve re housed Some Tannoy Cheviots in 100L cabs, I thought they’d mate perfectly with my lovely Audio Note Oto SE. Although the Oto does a lot right it just doesn’t have the clout to get the drivers going, particularly on Rock or denser music.

    I ve had lots of suggestions for SS, Class A, D etc but I particularly like the Oto flavour. To that end I ve picked up an Audio Note M1 pre. and looking to settle on power amp.
    I ve seen Audio Note make a Push Pull version of their P2 which kicks out 20 watts, but there doesn’t appear to be much love amongst AN folk for PP stuff, which I’m guessing is down to them matching with AN speakers.
    Has anybody heard any AN PP stuff? Is it any good and will it improve over my Oto SE 10 watts. Is it manufactured just because it’s cheaper?
    Will it drive my Cheviots?

  2. #2
    Join Date: Apr 2016

    Location: Gravesend and France

    Posts: 1,415
    I'm paul.

    Default

    Tannoy say 20 -250w amplifier. I doubt an audio note pp would do the business. A driver that can handle 250w and 91db will most likely need solid state. Never found valve amps other than sets into very efficient drivers to be anything special. In fact I'm done with valves altogether and gone solid state 10w into 10" 99db single drivers.
    Bakoon 11R Denon DP80 Stax UA-70 Shure Ultra 500 in a Martin Bastin body with jico stylus, project ds2 digital Lii audio crystal 10 tqwt speakers

    Office system, DIY CSS fullrange speakers with aurum cantus G2 ribbons Najda dsp as dac Akai AM-U02 Jvc QL-A51 direct drive turntable
    leema sub. JVC Z4S cart is in the house

    Garage system another Sony receiver, cassette deck


    System components are subject to change without warning and at the discretion of the owner.

  3. #3
    Join Date: Mar 2020

    Location: Lancashire

    Posts: 4
    I'm Paul.

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    I think mine are 89db and 60 watt, but I’m no expert I just own a pair?

  4. #4
    Join Date: Mar 2016

    Location: Barnet, london UK

    Posts: 1,940
    I'm Adam.

    Default

    A Radford STA25 or the STA15 would be absolutely perfect for the Cheviots.
    You do not need to go Solid state.
    Stick with the tubes
    "lack of passion is fatal"


    Vinyl: Thorens TD-124mk2 / SME-312 Aluminium 'special' / SME M2-9R / STEREO: Etsuro Urushi Cobalt / Shure M3D / Ortofon SPU A95 / Cartridge Man Music Master / Shure - SC35C (US) / SAEC C3 MC MONO: Miyajima Zero B 0.7mil mono / Miyajima Premium 1.0 / Amps & SUTs: Radford STA25 mk3 / AD Audio 'Satchmo2' pre & LCR phono / Hashimoto HM-7 SUT / ETR-MONO SUT Digital: Audio Note 4.1 (with DAC5 upgrades) DAC / Roon / Tidal Speakers: Tannoy 12" MGs' in RFC custom 'Rutland' Cabinets with RFC crossovers / Tannoy ST-100 Super Tweeters Cables: LFD Grainless phono / RFC Mercury / Duelund DCA16GA tinned copper / Kimber 12TC / SW1X Audio Design USB-SPdif / Duelund DCA20GA interconnects / SW1X Audio SPDIF Aero 6 / Mains Power Conditioner / Box Furniture rack / Audiodesk Systeme Vinyl Cleaner / a very beautiful & understanding Wife!

  5. #5
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Seaford UK

    Posts: 1,412
    I'm Dennis.

    Default

    Did valves from '66 to '71, and then used a Nelson-Jones SS 10W into Tannoy 15 Lancs, and it was loud enough to cause ear damage. One channel went faulty due to a manufactured BC107 fault, and I substituted a friend's Lowther EL84 amp, but the bass was wooly.

    I cannot understand why there is adhesion to valve technology, and any preference for valve mid I would suggest be the result of the same failing as that which softens the bass.

  6. #6
    Join Date: Mar 2016

    Location: Barnet, london UK

    Posts: 1,940
    I'm Adam.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pharos View Post
    Did valves from '66 to '71, and then used a Nelson-Jones SS 10W into Tannoy 15 Lancs, and it was loud enough to cause ear damage. One channel went faulty due to a manufactured BC107 fault, and I substituted a friend's Lowther EL84 amp, but the bass was wooly.

    I cannot understand why there is adhesion to valve technology, and any preference for valve mid I would suggest be the result of the same failing as that which softens the bass.
    I would suggest you were pairing the wrong amp and speakers if you feel you have soft and wooly bass response. It’s not a signature of any valve amp and speaker synergy I have the privilege of listening to...
    "lack of passion is fatal"


    Vinyl: Thorens TD-124mk2 / SME-312 Aluminium 'special' / SME M2-9R / STEREO: Etsuro Urushi Cobalt / Shure M3D / Ortofon SPU A95 / Cartridge Man Music Master / Shure - SC35C (US) / SAEC C3 MC MONO: Miyajima Zero B 0.7mil mono / Miyajima Premium 1.0 / Amps & SUTs: Radford STA25 mk3 / AD Audio 'Satchmo2' pre & LCR phono / Hashimoto HM-7 SUT / ETR-MONO SUT Digital: Audio Note 4.1 (with DAC5 upgrades) DAC / Roon / Tidal Speakers: Tannoy 12" MGs' in RFC custom 'Rutland' Cabinets with RFC crossovers / Tannoy ST-100 Super Tweeters Cables: LFD Grainless phono / RFC Mercury / Duelund DCA16GA tinned copper / Kimber 12TC / SW1X Audio Design USB-SPdif / Duelund DCA20GA interconnects / SW1X Audio SPDIF Aero 6 / Mains Power Conditioner / Box Furniture rack / Audiodesk Systeme Vinyl Cleaner / a very beautiful & understanding Wife!

  7. #7
    Join Date: May 2018

    Location: Woking

    Posts: 482
    I'm Chris.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pharos View Post
    Did valves from '66 to '71, and then used a Nelson-Jones SS 10W into Tannoy 15 Lancs, and it was loud enough to cause ear damage. One channel went faulty due to a manufactured BC107 fault, and I substituted a friend's Lowther EL84 amp, but the bass was wooly.

    I cannot understand why there is adhesion to valve technology, and any preference for valve mid I would suggest be the result of the same failing as that which softens the bass.
    I think you can be more likely to end up with the 'wooly' bass as described trying to pair valve amps and speakers. It's something SS (in my experience) is more forgiving of. BUT, get the right valve amp AND the right speakers (synergy!) and you can achieve floor shattering bass which to my ears can sound more organic than SS. My 300b SET in parallel configuration paired with my Cambridge Acoustic Grand Master's could crack the paint on the walls.
    System 1: - Amp: Ming Da MC 368B -
    - Source: Linn LP12 (Denon 304) - Arcam rPhono - Pioneer N-30K - Musical Paradise MP-D1 mkII -
    - Speakers: Quad 63's - REL T3's -

    System 2 - Amp: Musical Paradise MP-701 - Neurochrome 686 -
    - Source: Audio Technica LP5 - EAR834p clone - Pioneer N-30K - Musical Paradise MP-D1 -
    - Speakers: Cambridge Acoustic "Grand Master Evolution"

    System 3: - Amp: Custom N-core 300B SEP -
    - Source: Novafidelity X12 - Jolida Glass FX III -
    - Speakers: Loth X BS1's - REL T3 -

  8. #8
    Join Date: Aug 2010

    Location: Bergerac, France

    Posts: 560
    I'm Francois.

    Default

    +1

    My 2 pennies worth. I have an AN OTO PP (latest model) and with its 12W (IIRC), I have no trouble creating earth shattering bass for my room (and my room is small, less than 10sqm) with little stand mount speakers (Triangle Comet ES).

    Of course you need synergy between components but don't forget about the room: the size of the drivers and the amount of free air you will need to push around to create bass. The bigger the room, the bigger the driver, the larger the amount of power needed to move those cones.

    So per se, your Tannoys might be under powered as was being said, but only in relation to your listening room.

    But on the subject of AN Push Pull design, don't assume they are of a lesser grade than their SE counterparts. All the AN stuff I owned was of the best quality.
    Francois, Bergerac, France
    Source component/s:
    Croft Basic 25, Audio Note Arm One, Musical Fidelity M1 Dac, Allo Digi One, Sony SCD-XE800, Audio Note IQ3 MM, AVID Ingenium Twin arm
    Amplification:
    Audio Note OTO PP
    Loudspeakers:
    Triangle Comete ES
    Cables/stands:
    Quadraspire, Belden 9497

  9. #9
    Join Date: Oct 2014

    Location: Surrey

    Posts: 422
    I'm Graham.

    Default

    Agree audio note oto is not well suited to the bigger hpd tannoys, I tried it into my 15" and was not a good match.

    I would be looking for more like 40w of push pull. Even then, power supply will have to he decent to get grip on bottom end which can sound woolly on tannoys. I suspect the 50w Rogers e20 integrated pp built by audio note would be worth a try. Its a lovely amp
    Else get something like a rogue audio 88 ? , it's a powerhouse with real grip and drive. Very good value second hand. Jack non smoking man used to have one and would be worth asking his opinion.

  10. #10
    Join Date: Mar 2016

    Location: Barnet, london UK

    Posts: 1,940
    I'm Adam.

    Default

    I’ll say it again
    Radford STA25 will fit your criteria!!
    "lack of passion is fatal"


    Vinyl: Thorens TD-124mk2 / SME-312 Aluminium 'special' / SME M2-9R / STEREO: Etsuro Urushi Cobalt / Shure M3D / Ortofon SPU A95 / Cartridge Man Music Master / Shure - SC35C (US) / SAEC C3 MC MONO: Miyajima Zero B 0.7mil mono / Miyajima Premium 1.0 / Amps & SUTs: Radford STA25 mk3 / AD Audio 'Satchmo2' pre & LCR phono / Hashimoto HM-7 SUT / ETR-MONO SUT Digital: Audio Note 4.1 (with DAC5 upgrades) DAC / Roon / Tidal Speakers: Tannoy 12" MGs' in RFC custom 'Rutland' Cabinets with RFC crossovers / Tannoy ST-100 Super Tweeters Cables: LFD Grainless phono / RFC Mercury / Duelund DCA16GA tinned copper / Kimber 12TC / SW1X Audio Design USB-SPdif / Duelund DCA20GA interconnects / SW1X Audio SPDIF Aero 6 / Mains Power Conditioner / Box Furniture rack / Audiodesk Systeme Vinyl Cleaner / a very beautiful & understanding Wife!

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