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Thread: CDP Lasers and Lenses

  1. #1
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: London

    Posts: 4,419
    I'm Robert.

    Default CDP Lasers and Lenses

    Can anyone shed some technical light on what these are/do.

    This is more in relation to how they affect the sound negatively, if they are not as they should be ie: dirty lens, dodgy laser etc.

    If hand cream, grease or such liquid gets on the lens, can it affect the laser as well ?

    Also, anyone ever had a cdp sound wonderful one day and then sound wrong when switched on the next day, out of the blue, no warning ?
    My System:
    Amplification - Sansui AU-alpha 707 DR
    Turntable - Technics SP10 MK2-Technics EPA-250 Tonearm-Yannis Tome 423.5Plus tonearm cable-Eichmann KLEI Absolute Harmony plugs.
    Ortofon Cadenza Black moving coil cartridge-Fritz Gyger S re-tip. Panzerholz plinth.

    CDP - Pioneer PD-91
    Speakers - Spendor D7 on Soundcare SuperSpikes
    QED Silver Spiral speaker cable-airloc banana plugs
    Mains - Ultra Pure silver plated un-switched socket-Missing link EPS 500 silver plated plugs-Hi-Fi Tuning gold plated silver ceramic 13 amp fuses

  2. #2
    Join Date: Jan 2020

    Location: South Yorkshire

    Posts: 2,683
    I'm Andre.

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    All i know is most modern lenses are crappy plastic ones.

  3. #3
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Down South

    Posts: 2,413
    I'm Neal.

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    The lens keeps the laser focused on to the cd surface, the reflection is detected when the beam crosses from a pit to a land and back. The Pits and Lands are etched in to the CD surface. The laser strength is important for the reflective strength of the beam, some are not enough to reliably read CDr media for instance. The lens needs to be clean otherwise the beam can’t be focused on to the surface to read the pit to land transition. It’s also worth noting there are no 1s or 0s on a CD, CD is not a magnetic recording medium. The pits and lands are a time based based representation of bits, the length determining how many and the transition for pit to land a change from 1 to 0. HTH a bit!
    Listening in a Foo free Zone...

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  4. #4
    Join Date: Sep 2013

    Location: North Island New Zealand

    Posts: 1,757
    I'm Chris.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RobbieGong View Post
    Can anyone shed some technical light on what these are/do.

    This is more in relation to how they affect the sound negatively, if they are not as they should be ie: dirty lens, dodgy laser etc.

    If hand cream, grease or such liquid gets on the lens, can it affect the laser as well ?

    Also, anyone ever had a cdp sound wonderful one day and then sound wrong when switched on the next day, out of the blue, no warning ?
    The lens should be clean, for the laser to work properly. You can expect data drop out or inability to read a disc altogether with a lens that has material on it.
    With digital unlike analog, the compact disc player uses many astonishing feats of engineering to ascertain and correct replay. Whilst this is sometimes
    criticized from a analog perspective, the digital domain has sufficient scope to be entirely different with different rules ascertaining what is allowable as
    correct, and what represents genuine data loss.

    No to the second question, in my experience CDP's of the same brand and model are extremely consistent with replay and reproduction,

    As example if you have more than one CDP see if you can know which one is replaying, as each have certain signature sounds to them.
    A Marantz sounds different to a Sony I think Sony's have perhaps the best accuracy with music replay, but the stable platter Pioneer I use is equally alluring
    so are the two players I use the most.

    Perhaps it is equipment down stream of the CDP in your system that is causing inconsistency ?

  5. #5
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 37,883
    I'm Martin.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RobbieGong View Post

    Also, anyone ever had a cdp sound wonderful one day and then sound wrong when switched on the next day, out of the blue, no warning ?
    If you are having that experience I'd look at other factors as it is 100% not the laser and almost certainly not a problem with the CD player.

    What other factors are different? Curtains open or closed can have an audible effect (should be better sound with them closed). Are volume levels different? Are you comparing the same recording? Sober vs under the influence? Amplifier warmed up as opposed to just switched on? Big difference in the ambient temperature of the room between the two comparisons?
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

  6. #6
    Join Date: Feb 2013

    Location: W Lothian

    Posts: 99,005
    I'm Grant.

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    If using the cd players own dac it could have capacitor issues.
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  7. #7
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: London

    Posts: 4,419
    I'm Robert.

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    To add some context as I've been in this game a long time - system always switched on hours before any music is played - standard.

    Although I've had my cdp for some years I only really got to listening to it properly recently, as reported here and it was a revelation in terms of how good cd can sound to my ears, as a vinyl addict.

    For two weeks straight it sounded fab !

    Then, I put a cd that had played perfectly fine before, one day and it skipped so i put another regular / familar cd in and sat down and became aware that the sound was wrong.

    Sound is now pinched, closed with a level of distortion and just overall very poor.

    I've cleaned the lens with a cotton bud type swab, dipped in isopropyl alcohol cleaner - no change to sound at all.

    I'm baffled. Hoping it isnt the analogue / output section. It's a lovely rare thing, pretty much cosmetically near mint. I really dont want to lose it.

    Btw - I've also done all the usual basic trouble shooting, ie: checked and reconnected interconnects etc, speaker channels and amp all good.

    Unplugged, re-plugged - you name it.

    If there's something on the lens, then cant imagine as I cleaned it. I'm baffled
    My System:
    Amplification - Sansui AU-alpha 707 DR
    Turntable - Technics SP10 MK2-Technics EPA-250 Tonearm-Yannis Tome 423.5Plus tonearm cable-Eichmann KLEI Absolute Harmony plugs.
    Ortofon Cadenza Black moving coil cartridge-Fritz Gyger S re-tip. Panzerholz plinth.

    CDP - Pioneer PD-91
    Speakers - Spendor D7 on Soundcare SuperSpikes
    QED Silver Spiral speaker cable-airloc banana plugs
    Mains - Ultra Pure silver plated un-switched socket-Missing link EPS 500 silver plated plugs-Hi-Fi Tuning gold plated silver ceramic 13 amp fuses

  8. #8
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 37,883
    I'm Martin.

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    If it's a 'scratchy' sort of distortion that's low laser power i.e laser is on its way out so the only fix would be a new laser that isn't a counterfeit one. I don't think there's much chance of finding an NOS one. It's harsh I know but nothing lasts forever. You might find another PD91 that has other issues but the laser is fine, and you could swap them over.

    However the skipping is probably a separate issue. Have a read of this https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/in...layers.440522/
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

  9. #9
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: London

    Posts: 4,419
    I'm Robert.

    Default

    Skipping isnt an issue as it only did that one time.

    Wouldnt be surprised if it is the laser and as you say finding one will be pretty nigh on impossible. The part PWY1004 isnt available anywhere I've ever found and that's assuming that the issue is the laser.

    As much as i love vintage gear, vintage cdp's are another example, that as good as some of this gear is, when working properly, reliability and parts are always gonna be an issue to some extent, as many have found out.

    Worse, they just dont make them like the PD-91 anymore, great looks, sound and build to match, copper chassis, wooden sides etc etc.

    If there's a modern equivalent I'd like to see it, and even if it does, the cost today
    My System:
    Amplification - Sansui AU-alpha 707 DR
    Turntable - Technics SP10 MK2-Technics EPA-250 Tonearm-Yannis Tome 423.5Plus tonearm cable-Eichmann KLEI Absolute Harmony plugs.
    Ortofon Cadenza Black moving coil cartridge-Fritz Gyger S re-tip. Panzerholz plinth.

    CDP - Pioneer PD-91
    Speakers - Spendor D7 on Soundcare SuperSpikes
    QED Silver Spiral speaker cable-airloc banana plugs
    Mains - Ultra Pure silver plated un-switched socket-Missing link EPS 500 silver plated plugs-Hi-Fi Tuning gold plated silver ceramic 13 amp fuses

  10. #10
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 37,883
    I'm Martin.

    Default

    Get another vintage high-end player then. Still loads about. Yes it will go bad in time but what can you do? Just don't pay the silly money some people are asking for them. Three grand for a wooden-cheeked future boat anchor? I don't think so! There's also a lot of players that are off the radar but are equal or better to the old high-end stuff and can be had for under £200.
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

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