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Thread: Line Attenuators

  1. #21
    Join Date: Sep 2013

    Location: North Island New Zealand

    Posts: 1,687
    I'm Chris.

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    I agree with you , ... but for some, the path of discovery they seem to always strangely insist on, is therefore longer.
    requiring self discovery and awareness, before naturally returning to what you are referring to.

  2. #22
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Seaford UK

    Posts: 1,373
    I'm Dennis.

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    And that principle, of discovering relevant and irrelevant factors represents growth.

  3. #23
    Join Date: Sep 2013

    Location: North Island New Zealand

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    I'm Chris.

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    The history of patent no 1,357,773 November 1920, do you think would infer perhaps too much time with growth ?

    One could say dwelling on the wrong product, getting well misled and in despair clinging on to upholding, what was never
    intended to pass audio signals,.... but still some like to take their time.

  4. #24
    Join Date: Mar 2018

    Location: Battle, East Sussex

    Posts: 98
    I'm Lee.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Light Dependant Resistor View Post
    Passive attenuation therefore is the answer needed. Less components that are potentially altering the audio signal between your source and power amp,
    with a passive - will bring beneficial result.

    There are many forms of passive, that are all worthwhile auditioning.
    Can you list some?
    Thanks
    Lee
    Itís about the music
    70s Retro Yamaha YP800TT, CA1000Mk2, CT1010

  5. #25
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: The Black Country

    Posts: 5,423
    I'm Alan.

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    Standard carbon track potentiomenter.
    Plastic track potentiometer.

    Switched attenuator. Can be surface mount resistors or any variety of carbon/metal film/tantalum resistors on the larger switches.

    Relay ladder attenuator. A series of relays switch resistor pairs (generally) in and out of circuit.

    Transformer based attenuator with switched taps. The inductor is usually a single winding, hence technically an autoformer.

    Light dependent resistor attenuator.

    Solid state volume control chip such as the PGA2310.

  6. #26
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: West London

    Posts: 153
    I'm Steve.

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    Hi Lee,

    What sort of problems are you encountering that makes you feel the need for attenuators?

    I have a valve pre and a ss power amp and there was audible hiss. which I found irritating.

    I had another amp which was valve but didn't drive the speakers as well as I would hope.

    I tried attenuators from members on here and bought a pair of 10db Rothwells from one of them.

    The valve power is sold and there is no hiss from the ss amp. I forget the attenuators are there and it is the best my system has sounded. I still end up no more than around 9am on the dial but never ended up more with the valve power amp.
    Thorens TD550, Ortofon 12", Ortofon Jubilee or Koetsu Black; Rothwell MCL SUT, VTL 2.5 pre, XTC POW 1 power; Naim CD5x; KEF Reference 3.2's; Van den Hul interconnects and speaker cables.

  7. #27
    Join Date: Mar 2018

    Location: Battle, East Sussex

    Posts: 98
    I'm Lee.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Slawts View Post
    Hi Lee,

    What sort of problems are you encountering that makes you feel the need for attenuators?

    I have a valve pre and a ss power amp and there was audible hiss. which I found irritating.

    I had another amp which was valve but didn't drive the speakers as well as I would hope.

    I tried attenuators from members on here and bought a pair of 10db Rothwells from one of them.

    The valve power is sold and there is no hiss from the ss amp. I forget the attenuators are there and it is the best my system has sounded. I still end up no more than around 9am on the dial but never ended up more with the valve power amp.
    Hi,
    As I stated at the beginning of the thread my Preamp output voltage is 100mv and the power amp input is 50mv. I am not able to use the volume control past 10 to 11 oíclock on the Preamp as it is too loud. My understanding is I am not benefiting from the Preamp as much as I should be. I wonders if attenuators would help and what level.

    Thanks

    Lee
    Itís about the music
    70s Retro Yamaha YP800TT, CA1000Mk2, CT1010

  8. #28
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Seaford UK

    Posts: 1,373
    I'm Dennis.

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    Yes, a simple potential divider cutting the I/P by 6dB, using the I/P impedance as the other resistor, and costing the price of two resistors will do it and do it best.

    Just place a resistor in series with each I/P. (Which is what the more expensive and clumsy method using attenuating leads will do).

  9. #29
    Join Date: Sep 2013

    Location: North Island New Zealand

    Posts: 1,687
    I'm Chris.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebottle View Post
    Standard carbon track potentiomenter.
    Plastic track potentiometer.

    Switched attenuator. Can be surface mount resistors or any variety of carbon/metal film/tantalum resistors on the larger switches.

    Relay ladder attenuator. A series of relays switch resistor pairs (generally) in and out of circuit.

    Transformer based attenuator with switched taps. The inductor is usually a single winding, hence technically an autoformer.

    Light dependent resistor attenuator.

    Solid state volume control chip such as the PGA2310.
    Also j- fets used as voltage controlled resistors, observing linearity can be improved with feedback, pages 243-249
    "Designing with field effect transistors Second Edition Siliconix inc

  10. #30
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: West London

    Posts: 153
    I'm Steve.

    Default

    I think your understanding is wrong.

    Unless there are lots of problems with the sound you are fine and haven't got a mismatch.
    Thorens TD550, Ortofon 12", Ortofon Jubilee or Koetsu Black; Rothwell MCL SUT, VTL 2.5 pre, XTC POW 1 power; Naim CD5x; KEF Reference 3.2's; Van den Hul interconnects and speaker cables.

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