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Thread: the Superex professional ST-PRO-B mods

  1. #1
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: U.S.A. Neo-Socialist Kalifornski

    Posts: 3,262

    Default the Superex professional ST-PRO-B mods

    Every one who has heard them loves them and is suprised at the layers in even the lowest bass and there sealed ability to block out noise and create a 3D open air sound feild that extends way outside of your head with vast space between insterments and I have listened to them for 12 and 14 hour sessions with no problems other than sweaty ears.They are a 2 way headphone with a crossover offering awsome bass a fat midrange and nice easy detailed highs that wont offend your ears.

    Made in 1968 as good as they are there is very small improvements to be made.
    and just renewing the ear cussions has been trial and error till I discovered the trick.

    I am trying something different right now as pictured on the headphones here,There is to some point a relationship beween pad thickness and bass.If you have exsive bass and not much soundstage the pads are worn out,but a thicker pad will only give you wider soundstage to a point and to thick bass suffers.I think Superex factory pads found the sweet spot so after a little more fooling around I'll put the rebuilt factory pads back on. The factory cussions can be rebuilt useing 1 inch medum dencity foam by makeing 2 slices in the inside of the pads pulling up the foam and cutting it in half then pulling it out slowly with needle nose pliers.
    Then cut a very long strip 17"long 1"X1" of foam and push,pull it into the hollow vynil pads and cut off any excess then use a little black electritions tape to cover the cuts you made and install,the repair should be invisable when assembled.

    The fist 3 pictures where experimental, pic4 you can see the yellow worn down foam that was removed and the black pads refoamed from the 1" foam sheet.

    I have dissasembled 4 sets of pads and rebuilt them,I can say with 100% certainty they only used foam so the gel rumors can be sqwashed.
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    Last edited by goraman; 26-06-2010 at 02:03.
    Jeff :UBERTHREADKILLER

  2. #2
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: U.S.A. Neo-Socialist Kalifornski

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    Default mods to Superex part 2

    Always rememberto take off the badges on the ear cups because there is a screw there to dissasemble them. And goop in the purple tube is what works best to put them back on.
    The capacitors must be 0.01 uf so far I like the AudioCap Thea and the Russian PIO caps the best,the AudioCap is what is in this picture.
    Also I installed a 1/8 stereo femail jack in the left ear cup and rewired with 3 strand Kimber Kable PBJ.
    Now any cable with a 1/8 male jack will plug in and you can roll different cables of different lenghts.I am useing 3 feet of Kimber PBJ with a 1/8 male on one end and a 1/4 male on the other .
    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=027-700




    http://cgi.ebay.com/0-01-uF-750-V-Pa...item51939bb9a3

    another good choice
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    Last edited by goraman; 26-06-2010 at 04:59.
    Jeff :UBERTHREADKILLER

  3. #3
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: U.S.A. Neo-Socialist Kalifornski

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    The rebuilt factory pads.
    I know these phones are ugly as Hell but they flat out smoke my Grado 325i's and the impeadance is 42 ohms even an Ipod can drive them.
    And yes,the Headband is from the SuperX Pro B IV a later modle,these have been used for 42 years so you could say there broken in,but the head frame flat broke one day so I replaced it from my spare parts stash.
    I can't listen to my Grados with a SS headphone amp the 325i's need tubes but the SuperX Pro B sounds good with both but better with tubes.
    They have more bass,better imageing and mids are not as forward ,highs are far more pleasent than the Grados.
    42 year old headphones beat Grado 325i for extended listening.
    I have spent alot of time with this modle in my 44 years and feel I have fine tuned it some.
    Also If you should get a crack in the cup at the bolt hole for the headband bracket as seen in this photo,JB weld a nylon washer to the inside and spread some thinly on the outside aswell and let it dry.That will keep you in buisness for years to come.

    Treat them with respect when working on them and never get upset if you get stumped just settle down youll figure it out.
    There isent alot of these left so do no harm.
    http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/...about-old-cans read post #3.
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    Last edited by goraman; 26-06-2010 at 02:33.
    Jeff :UBERTHREADKILLER

  4. #4
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: U.S.A. Neo-Socialist Kalifornski

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    Default

    Jeff :UBERTHREADKILLER

  5. #5
    Join Date: Jun 2010

    Posts: 1

    Default Superex Headphones

    Thanks for some great tips. I was wondering if you've had the opportunity to hear any of the other Superex models besides the Pro B's. If so, which were they and how do they compare?

  6. #6
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Hi 'bullduck',

    Welcome to AOS!

    Could you do me a favour please and pop into the Welcome area and introduce yourself properly, giving your first name, basic location, system details and music tastes?

    This is the required procedure here for new members joining our community - thanks!

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

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    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


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    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  7. #7
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: U.S.A. Neo-Socialist Kalifornski

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bullduck View Post
    Thanks for some great tips. I was wondering if you've had the opportunity to hear any of the other Superex models besides the Pro B's. If so, which were they and how do they compare?
    I have also owned the studio pro B IV's and have heard
    ARS and the STM non of them cold beat the pro-B The ARS and STM has much less cubic volume in the cups and later modles where not matched as closely and the cross overs where not as simple,not to mention the internals where made for faster production to keep up with compeditors so the hand matched,hand picked,hand made aproch took a back seat to volume production,leaveing the ST pro B as there best sounding headphones.
    There last headphones where electrostatic and where said to be awsome but lacked bass and where not easy to drive but not menny attempted such a thing in the60's early 70's.
    The big problem with Super-X was marketing and marketing then finally marketing.http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/superex...trostatic.html
    Last edited by goraman; 30-06-2010 at 01:19.
    Jeff :UBERTHREADKILLER

  8. #8
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: U.S.A. Neo-Socialist Kalifornski

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    That pair I picked up on ebay for parts was very salvagable.
    PIO Caps a new plug and a pads rebiuld and thier sound as the pound.

    1.Remove ear pads by carfuly pulling and slideing them off.

    2.on the inside of the pad make two 1 inch long slices on each side.
    3. pull the foam up through the plastic cover and cut it on each side.

    These pictures are the old foam being removed.
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    Last edited by goraman; 06-07-2010 at 06:01.
    Jeff :UBERTHREADKILLER

  9. #9
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: U.S.A. Neo-Socialist Kalifornski

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    Step 2 for pad rebuild.
    4. pull the foam out slowly and use the needle nose pliers to push and pull it through till the pads are empty of all old foam.
    5.cut 17 inch by 1 " square med density foam strips and use your pliers to push and pull them through till the whole foam is inside.

    The first 2 pics are the old foam.

    Last 3 pics are the new foam going in.
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    Last edited by goraman; 06-07-2010 at 04:35.
    Jeff :UBERTHREADKILLER

  10. #10
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: U.S.A. Neo-Socialist Kalifornski

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    Continued...
    6.tape up the slits with black vynil electritions tape.
    7.Replace the pads and rock out!!


    Some real oldieshttp://www.foundvalue.com/photo/vintage-superex-pro-st-pro-headphones-1962-x-con-34682
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    Last edited by goraman; 06-07-2010 at 06:10.
    Jeff :UBERTHREADKILLER

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