I know but at the end of the day [I hate that term] If hes had masking tape on for five years, no way on earth will the adhesive backing still be soft.
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 2,683
I'm Andre.
I know but at the end of the day [I hate that term] If hes had masking tape on for five years, no way on earth will the adhesive backing still be soft.
Location: Bangkok
Posts: 24
I'm Pete.
Thank you all. The silver finish of the SME IV is not robust to say the least, also the residue is still very sticky due to the heat and humidity in the room it's been stored in (see my location). I'll try a little isopropyl alcohol on a cotton bud first and let you know. Thanks again to all, your input is very much appreciated.
Location: Mildenhall, Suffolk
Posts: 380
I'm John.
I use Citrus Spray Adhesive Remover on High Quality Architectural Finished materials, ranging from Stainless Stainless to Anodised, Powder Coating and Coated Glass.
It is the go to product when it comes to Sun Baked Adhesive Residuals, and any condition that is lesser.
With something like a Tonearm, I would work on a few more applications than a extra amount of physical work to remove the dissolving glue.
If you go this way and use a aerosol, spray the substance into the lid, and apply with a small brush, this will keep the applications local and controlled.
Just recently we were using Screwfix Sticky Stuff Remover, there was no change in performance, it is not a aerosol, so a lot more is supplied in a bottle.
As always make sure you satisfy yourself by carrying out a trial in a discreet part of the Tonearm, before you give the whole area the treatment.
On a side note, look after the SME IV , I've seen a ascending price creep on a recent watched sale, than the usual used sale price, following the recent heavily debated threads across the forums on SME's changed marketing strategy.
I've decided to sit on my one for longer as a result.
Location: Channel Islands
Posts: 139
I'm Ben.
Sticky stuff remover works really well, won't damage or remove anything other than the old residue and will leave it smelling of oranges.
Location: Chichester, West Sussex UK
Posts: 368
I'm John.
Best thing I've found for removing most stuff from most things is Lighter Fluid as used in zippo lighters.
Is great for glues and cooking/engine oil or greasy marks on clothes and as it evaporates it leaves no residue.
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 142
I'm Michael.
This is what I use, completely safe and very good https://www.lakeland.co.uk/8976/Stic...-Remover-250ml
Location: Solihull, UK
Posts: 410
I'm Bob.
Some good suggestions here. Lighter fluid especially if you can keep it away from plastics. IPA also works.
Surprised no one's mentioned Methylated Spirits. Less aggressive.
Source: Orbe SE / SME IV / Cadenza Bronze
Source: WD NAS / Cyrus Stream X2 / Chord DAVE
Source: Oppo UDP-205 (CD/DVD-A/SACD)
Amplification: Icon Audio PS 3 Sig Phono + Audio Research LS27 + Musical Fidelity A5cr Power Amp
Loudspeakers: ProAc Response D28
Cables/stands: Mark Grant G1500HD + Linn K20 + Cat 5e
Other bits: Okki Nokki keeping things clean
Location: Bangkok
Posts: 24
I'm Pete.
Thanks again for the suggestions everyone. Bob, does IPA refer to pale ale?
Analogue: Garrard 401 (NWA), NWA slate plinth, Redbeard bearing, SME IV, Dynavector XX-2 MkII, Pathos In The Groove Mk II. Digital: Self built PC, RME HDSPe MADI PCIe card, Mytek 8x192 ADDA & MADI DIO card. Other: Shadow Hills Equinox, ATC SCM50ASL Pro, Towersonic TS-1B, Analysis Plus Power Oval & XLR ic, Sine SRT-3KV, Sine SA-6, Sine Royal 2S
Location: Solihull, UK
Posts: 410
I'm Bob.
One you can drink, the other...... best not.
Source: Orbe SE / SME IV / Cadenza Bronze
Source: WD NAS / Cyrus Stream X2 / Chord DAVE
Source: Oppo UDP-205 (CD/DVD-A/SACD)
Amplification: Icon Audio PS 3 Sig Phono + Audio Research LS27 + Musical Fidelity A5cr Power Amp
Loudspeakers: ProAc Response D28
Cables/stands: Mark Grant G1500HD + Linn K20 + Cat 5e
Other bits: Okki Nokki keeping things clean