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Thread: Removing sticky tape residue from turntable in storage for a while

  1. #1
    Join Date: Oct 2011

    Location: Bangkok

    Posts: 24
    I'm Pete.

    Default Removing sticky tape residue from turntable in storage for a while

    Dear all

    I've been absent for a while; the birth of my daughter got in the way of music. However, she is now 5 and I'm at the point where I'm ready to set my system up again.

    So, in my wisdom, prior to moving house and shortly after aforementioned arrival of child, I used copious amounts of masking tape to secure my tonearm in place and also the little plastic cover to protect my cartridge.

    As such, after 5 years in storage, my turntable will (hopefully) shortly be back in business, however after removing the masking tape there is a lot of sticky residue on the tonearm and sides of the body of the cartridge. This is where I would be very grateful for any advice.

    I presumably need some kind of very gentle solvent to remove the residue from the tonearm, but I am acutely aware that anything too strong could ruin the outer coating finish of said tonearm. I've googled extensively for 'gentle solvents' but nothing so far is filling me with confidence. The arm is a SME IV if that helps narrow down the options.

    Thanks in advance for any knowledge/assistance.

  2. #2
    Join Date: Jan 2020

    Location: South Yorkshire

    Posts: 2,683
    I'm Andre.

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    If its still sticky adhesive & not gone hard WD40..

  3. #3
    Join Date: Feb 2013

    Location: W Lothian

    Posts: 99,005
    I'm Grant.

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    yup,wd or even a little parrafin may do job without hurting finish
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  4. #4
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,625
    I'm Geoff.

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    I use furniture spray polish. Squirt a bit on and leave it for an hour, the tape residue starts coming off then. You may need to do this a couple of times, but it's a safe method.
    It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!

  5. #5
    Join Date: Nov 2011

    Location: Seaton, Devon, UK

    Posts: 13,267
    I'm Adrian.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Made in 1968 View Post
    If its still sticky adhesive & not gone hard WD40..
    Be very careful with WD40 it is actually hydroscopic, which believe it or not absorbs water over time and will then cause rust, not good for any bearings. I know this from many years experience of working on old cars. If you want a safe product that is a lubricant then it is ACF50, completely hydrophobic.

    Olbas Oil or Eucalyptus oil is good for breaking down glue, or you could try a small amount of lighter fuel, but try these on a hidden part of the arm especially if a black painted one.
    Listening is the act of aural discrimination and dissemination of sound, and accepting you get it wrong sometimes.

    Analog Inputs: Pro-Ject Signature 10 TT & arm, Benz Micro LP-S, Michel Cusis MC, Goldring 2500 and Ortofon Rondo Blue cartridges, Hitachi FT5500 mk2 Tuner

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  6. #6
    Join Date: Aug 2016

    Location: Suffolk

    Posts: 49
    I'm Charlie.

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    Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) works well and won't damage anything. It's used in record cleaning fluids so any you have left over will be very handy!

  7. #7
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Norwich

    Posts: 1,064
    I'm Mike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chas B View Post
    Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) works well and won't damage anything. It's used in record cleaning fluids so any you have left over will be very handy!
    Seconded. Use it for everything, including my RCM (but separately ! ) Cotton buds make for more delicate and accurate cleaning with it, but IPA (a.k.a. isopropanol) is the stuff.

  8. #8
    Join Date: Jan 2020

    Location: South Yorkshire

    Posts: 2,683
    I'm Andre.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AJSki2fly View Post
    Be very careful with WD40 it is actually hydroscopic, which believe it or not absorbs water over time and will then cause rust, not good for any bearings. I know this from many years experience of working on old cars. If you want a safe product that is a lubricant then it is ACF50, completely hydrophobic.

    Olbas Oil or Eucalyptus oil is good for breaking down glue, or you could try a small amount of lighter fuel, but try these on a hidden part of the arm especially if a black painted one.
    I wasnt intending any bearing work just a paint finish. The sticky will come straight off anyway so will be on there and off before you know it.. Switch contact spray should work the same..

  9. #9
    Join Date: Jul 2016

    Location: West Wales

    Posts: 143
    I'm Jonathan.

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    I use a spray electrical cleaner on any sticky residue which works well. Put it on lint free cloth or cotton bud first rather than spraying directly on.

  10. #10
    Join Date: Nov 2011

    Location: Seaton, Devon, UK

    Posts: 13,267
    I'm Adrian.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Made in 1968 View Post
    I wasnt intending any bearing work just a paint finish. The sticky will come straight off anyway so will be on there and off before you know it.. Switch contact spray should work the same..
    I was just trying to be helpful, all light cleaning fluids will easily run and spread everywhere, and you would not want it getting near the bearings.
    Listening is the act of aural discrimination and dissemination of sound, and accepting you get it wrong sometimes.

    Analog Inputs: Pro-Ject Signature 10 TT & arm, Benz Micro LP-S, Michel Cusis MC, Goldring 2500 and Ortofon Rondo Blue cartridges, Hitachi FT5500 mk2 Tuner

    Digital:- Marantz SA-KI Pearl CD player, RaspberryPi/HifiBerry Digi+ Pro, Buffalo NAS Drive

    Amplification:- AudioValve Sunilda phono stage, Krell KSP-7B pre-amp, Krell KSA-80 power amp

    Output: Wilson Benesch Vector speakers, KLH Ultimate One Headphones

    Cables: Tellurium Q Ultra Black II RCA & Chord Epic 2 RCA, various speaker leads, & links


    I think I am nearing audio nirvana, but don’t tell anyone.

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