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Thread: My new deck..

  1. #31
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: London

    Posts: 4,419
    I'm Robert.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikeandvan View Post
    Bollocks, me tome cable arrived and it ain't got an earth wire at the tonearm end, have to send it back, more waiting!!
    Waiting is painful - all I do in this game is wait.......
    My System:
    Amplification - Sansui AU-alpha 707 DR
    Turntable - Technics SP10 MK2-Technics EPA-250 Tonearm-Yannis Tome 423.5Plus tonearm cable-Eichmann KLEI Absolute Harmony plugs.
    Ortofon Cadenza Black moving coil cartridge-Fritz Gyger S re-tip. Panzerholz plinth.

    CDP - Pioneer PD-91
    Speakers - Spendor D7 on Soundcare SuperSpikes
    QED Silver Spiral speaker cable-airloc banana plugs
    Mains - Ultra Pure silver plated un-switched socket-Missing link EPS 500 silver plated plugs-Hi-Fi Tuning gold plated silver ceramic 13 amp fuses

  2. #32
    Join Date: Mar 2016

    Location: Brighton, UK.

    Posts: 3,072
    I'm Mike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by REXTON View Post
    The "cheapy" plinth's from Romania are just as good as anything from this country at x3 or x4 times the price. I don't think the motor being close to the plinth is an issue. There are two sets of mounting screws. The first set is for the motor-cage to connect onto the top plate, and yes you need these screwed in. The 401 has four threaded rods which attach to the top plate and fix the deck onto your plinth via x4 nuts. The 401 needs to be screwed down onto the top surface of the plinth to try and "sink" vibration from the deck and it's components into the plinth.
    Good to hear. My 401 sounds a bit raw in the highs at the minute, can't imagine that going away with a new plinth? Would a new mat sort that out at all? As it is, its a tad unlistenable because of those raw highs. Does anyone bother insulating the underside of the platter? I have it powered by an AG1500 mains regenerator.
    Current system 1210 GR. CDP - Meridian G08. Amp -Sugden A21I - Sig. Wharfedale Lintons.

  3. #33
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,624
    I'm Geoff.

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    Have a play with the VTA. That can have a significant effect on HF quality. The MP200 with Era V shouldn't sound coarse.
    It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!

  4. #34
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 9,302
    I'm Andrew.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikeandvan View Post
    Good to hear. My 401 sounds a bit raw in the highs at the minute, can't imagine that going away with a new plinth? Would a new mat sort that out at all? As it is, its a tad unlistenable because of those raw highs. Does anyone bother insulating the underside of the platter? I have it powered by an AG1500 mains regenerator.
    DONT do anything to the underside of your platter. It's a balanced platter and adding stuff to the underside will have a big impact. I use a Tenuto platter mat and a couple of damping rings around the platter rim. I'd invest in a couple of platter rings to dampen the platter, you can always sell them and they are reasonably cheap. The A1500 should regenerate a clear electricity supply with a steady Hz value. Changes to the Hz value in the voltage supply to the 401's motor will generate platter speed variations so the A1500 should sort this problem out for you. I run my 401 through my P10 and get good results.


    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    Have a play with the VTA. That can have a significant effect on HF quality. The MP200 with Era V shouldn't sound coarse.
    I'm currently investigating this myself.
    SS
    CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

    VALVE
    PRE
    Croft Epoch(Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (Modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Ref XO + Batpure supertweeters DECK Garrard 301 Mat Teunto Bearings 401(Bastin) Plinth Bamboo Arms 3009/3012 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister II/FGS + Ortofon SPU MONO CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ SpeakerPC Tripple C+WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostages Paradise(4 Box Mega-Modded) / Croft Musicmaker



  5. #35
    Join Date: Sep 2010

    Location: Vienna

    Posts: 178
    I'm Michael.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikeandvan View Post
    Bollocks, me tome cable arrived and it ain't got an earth wire at the tonearm end, have to send it back, more waiting!!
    You don't need an earthing cable at the tonearm side if it is terminated with a 5 pin din connector. The earth connection is included!

  6. #36
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 9,302
    I'm Andrew.

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    Quote Originally Posted by krugdoktor View Post
    You don't need an earthing cable at the tonearm side if it is terminated with a 5 pin din connector. The earth connection is included!
    Good point!!
    SS
    CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

    VALVE
    PRE
    Croft Epoch(Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (Modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Ref XO + Batpure supertweeters DECK Garrard 301 Mat Teunto Bearings 401(Bastin) Plinth Bamboo Arms 3009/3012 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister II/FGS + Ortofon SPU MONO CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ SpeakerPC Tripple C+WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostages Paradise(4 Box Mega-Modded) / Croft Musicmaker



  7. #37
    Join Date: Nov 2014

    Location: Birmingham

    Posts: 140
    I'm Michael.

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    Use an MRA Ringmat system on the platter. See http://www.ringmat.com/index.htm

  8. #38
    Join Date: Mar 2016

    Location: Brighton, UK.

    Posts: 3,072
    I'm Mike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by krugdoktor View Post
    You don't need an earthing cable at the tonearm side if it is terminated with a 5 pin din connector. The earth connection is included!
    Well, I have one my old tonearm cable and I can confirm it makes the tonearm completely silent, using it without it a slight buzz emits, silence is golden
    Current system 1210 GR. CDP - Meridian G08. Amp -Sugden A21I - Sig. Wharfedale Lintons.

  9. #39
    Join Date: Mar 2016

    Location: Brighton, UK.

    Posts: 3,072
    I'm Mike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by REXTON View Post
    DONT do anything to the underside of your platter. It's a balanced platter and adding stuff to the underside will have a big impact. I use a Tenuto platter mat and a couple of damping rings around the platter rim. I'd invest in a couple of platter rings to dampen the platter, you can always sell them and they are reasonably cheap. The A1500 should regenerate a clear electricity supply with a steady Hz value. Changes to the Hz value in the voltage supply to the 401's motor will generate platter speed variations so the A1500 should sort this problem out for you. I run my 401 through my P10 and get good results.
    .
    Thanks Andrew, I'll try another mat, may'be cheaper than a Tenuto though! Cork looks like it would have good damping properties.
    Current system 1210 GR. CDP - Meridian G08. Amp -Sugden A21I - Sig. Wharfedale Lintons.

  10. #40
    Join Date: Sep 2010

    Location: Vienna

    Posts: 178
    I'm Michael.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikeandvan View Post
    Well, I have one my old tonearm cable and I can confirm it makes the tonearm completely silent, using it without it a slight buzz emits, silence is golden
    It seems there is no earth connection between your tonearm and the turntable chassis (no metal to metal contact). You could try an easy experiment: Take a unused cinch cable, press the center pin against the earthing point of your amp and the center pin at the other end against a metal part of your turntable chassis, if the buzzing is gone you need a simple wire connection between either the tonearm and the chassis (not so easy) or a wire between the turntable chassis and the earthing point of your amp (much easier).
    Hope this helps!

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