Micro-Seiki CDM-2 - partial dissection

[Rare Bird]

The one area of weakness was the 1mm thick metal base

Exactly the same on that 7000 wasnt even a mill thick..However they were built like tanks back then..

[DSJR]

I've just noticed that the bottom of the CD-M2 is a heavy metal plate similar in thickness to the top one.. Why I thought it was MDF I don't know, but the CD-M100 did seem to have something like this - I don't move the thing as a rule and it's the first time in ten years since I've taken the top off...

Here are the troublesome loading belts - how complex does this need to be?..



...and the wonderful CDM 1 pro(?) mech. Someone has GOT to make replacement light-pens for it at some point?



I found a replacement belt from Cricklewood Electronics (there was another site who wanted double the price) and should hopefully receive it tomorrow The other belts were still tight with no slippage or stretching.

[Spectral Morn]

Looking good Dave, looking good



Regards D S D L

[DSJR]

Neil, sorry to have not got back to you, but *when you have the time and inclination...* is there any chance you could fish the CD94 out, whip off the top and take a piccie or three? I haven't attempted to remove the bottom plate, but I suspect that there's a Marantz chassis that Micro-Seiki have adapted in there..

How I wish I'd have bought the mint CD-M100 I was offered for £500 from a trusted friend. I know it had more bass power and punch than mine, but at the time it ruined my system (not the CD player's fault at all I discovered). The output transformers are bigger, the case even heavier (it was a bit taller) and there was a facility for turning the display off, which did make a very tiny improvement, as well as allowing you to quietly keep the machine powered all the time (those old 1541 chipsets needed it IMO).

One final memory. The phono sockets come straight off the traditional "analogue output board" under the add-on one. Used with decent standard phono leads, the sound reverts to CD94-type, rather closed in, dead and a bit "fuzzy." Adding cable ferrites to the interconnects closes the gap between them and the transformer coupled outs, so I suspect the transformers were self saturating RF and other cr@p coming off the DAC's.

[Spectral Morn]

Neil, sorry to have not got back to you, but *when you have the time and inclination...* is there any chance you could fish the CD94 out, whip off the top and take a piccie or three? I haven't attempted to remove the bottom plate, but I suspect that there's a Marantz chassis that Micro-Seiki have adapted in there..

How I wish I'd have bought the mint CD-M100 I was offered for £500 from a trusted friend. I know it had more bass power and punch than mine, but at the time it ruined my system (not the CD player's fault at all I discovered). The output transformers are bigger, the case even heavier (it was a bit taller) and there was a facility for turning the display off, which did make a very tiny improvement, as well as allowing you to quietly keep the machine powered all the time (those old 1541 chipsets needed it IMO).

One final memory. The phono sockets come straight off the traditional "analogue output board" under the add-on one. Used with decent standard phono leads, the sound reverts to CD94-type, rather closed in, dead and a bit "fuzzy." Adding cable ferrites to the interconnects closes the gap between them and the transformer coupled outs, so I suspect the transformers were self saturating RF and other cr@p coming off the DAC's.

See what I can do Dave.

If you put a shorting plug into the digital out you also get an improvement in sound quality. If you need one I have a few spare.


Regards D S D L

[DSJR]

There's one already there mate...... I had thought of shorting out the the phono outputs too and had some Jimmy Hughes Specials, complete with reef-knotted wire links (don't ask), but they seem to have disappeared like a lot of stuff..

[DSJR]

Well, the crackle got worse and didn't abate after an hour or so, so I got my carcass into gear again and thought I'd remove the base of the player.. The rosewood trim runs round three sides and holds the badge, which is also the main switch.

I used to joke that the case of this machine was lead lined - IT IS - underrneath anyway-



It seems that some parts of the supply board do indeed run warm, and there are also some mods done to it By Micro-Seiki, including a couple of wires, which I don't think were part of the Philips donor chassis (apparently, Marantz, Philips and Micro-Seiki used part of a basic Philips two-box chassis and worked on these to individualise the players such as the CD94, Philips CD960 etc and the CD12/CDA94 used the DAC chassis apparently).



I touched one of the black wire ends and the tarry substance/glue crumbled in my fingers. I have no idea if there were any components on this side of the wire (there's a diode and resistor at t'other) but it looks as if the wire was "split" in a Y form and terminated in two places. As the solder pads would have needed filing or a session with a Dremel to clean up, I found a clean pad and soldered a repair to that-









I've yet to plug back in, but here's hoping......

The CD94 and CD960 have service manuals, but I don't know regarding the CD-M2.

TTFN..

[Rare Bird]

See what I can do Dave.

If you put a shorting plug into the digital out you also get an improvement in sound quality. If you need one I have a few spare.

Hi Neil
Is it just a 75 Ohm Resistor wired in the plug your using?

[Spectral Morn]

Hi Neil
Is it just a 75 Ohm Resistor wired in the plug your using?

I will have a look later for you.


Regards D S D L

[DSJR]

I FAILED!!!!!

With this wire disconnected, the machine seems to function. Wired as I did it (trying to copy what I thought it was), the discs wouldn't turn. Disconnecting this completely, the disc spins properly. Neither the CD94 or earlier Philips 960 has this.

Ideas anyone please.