+ Reply to Thread
Page 4 of 6 FirstFirst ... 23456 LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 53

Thread: It's time for a pair of TANNOY's

  1. #31
    Audio Al is offline Pishanto Specialist & Super-Daftee
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Dagenham Essex

    Posts: 11,215
    I'm Allen.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jandl100 View Post
    I don't really know why I am often cited as a boxswapper.
    I bow my head in admiration to Al.

    [

  2. #32
    Join Date: Dec 2018

    Location: Maidstone

    Posts: 82
    I'm julian.

    Default

    Good to see this much kit in one room, it might make my wife feel better if i show her the pictures....or probably not
    PS Audio Directstream DAC, modified Dennon DVD player, SP10, Trans Fi linear tracker, Stack audio streamer
    1980's Aloia 6L6 prototype, Cat's Whiskers Autum Leaves 300 B mono blocks, Definative Audio modded Rogue 88 Magmum 6550. Firebottle LDR battery pre. Classe 103, Herron VT2
    RFC Tannoy Cheviot's,Wilmslow Audio modified Chario Academy Millenium II's,Frankenstein DIY's, Oris Onken horns, Fostek full range drivers
    Ripnas etc

  3. #33
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: West Sūþsēaxe

    Posts: 2,015
    I'm Edward.

    Default

    Are these the Glenairs Carl was selling, the ones that travelled from Tokyo?
    Current: [P20] Roon/Tidal > Custom PC> Chevron Paradox NDF16 > Phast Pre > Neuro. 686 > Tannoy Berkley (RFC tweaks)


  4. #34
    Audio Al is offline Pishanto Specialist & Super-Daftee
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Dagenham Essex

    Posts: 11,215
    I'm Allen.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Edward View Post
    Are these the Glenairs Carl was selling, the ones that travelled from Tokyo?
    No , not to my knowledge
    [

  5. #35
    Audio Al is offline Pishanto Specialist & Super-Daftee
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Dagenham Essex

    Posts: 11,215
    I'm Allen.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by joolz View Post
    Good to see this much kit in one room, it might make my wife feel better if i show her the pictures....or probably not
    Only just enough room for me now , it IS out of control , Maybe you will see a TV program about me soon ,
    The horder next door
    Last edited by Audio Al; 12-09-2019 at 11:57.
    [

  6. #36
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: West Sūþsēaxe

    Posts: 2,015
    I'm Edward.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Audio Al View Post
    No , not to my knowledge
    Ah ok. Still, lovely speakers. I was tempted - but have to slum it with Berkeleys. Love the big Tannoy sound.
    Current: [P20] Roon/Tidal > Custom PC> Chevron Paradox NDF16 > Phast Pre > Neuro. 686 > Tannoy Berkley (RFC tweaks)


  7. #37
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,624
    I'm Geoff.

    Default

    I may be wrong, but I have a feeling the Glenairs and the Legacy Berkeleys use the same driver. If not, it's certainly a very similar unit.
    It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!

  8. #38
    Audio Al is offline Pishanto Specialist & Super-Daftee
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Dagenham Essex

    Posts: 11,215
    I'm Allen.

    Default

    While embodying the long established company philosophy of no compromise acoustic performance, the Glenair brings a fresh and modern styling approach to the Tannoy Prestige range. Utilising the proven acoustic benefits of a trapezoidal cabinet design, Glenair bears all the hallmarks of bespoke loudspeaker craftsmanship but with a more contemporary feel.

    Plywood manufactured from birch grown in slow-growing cold regions of the world and selected for its denser quality is used for the main structure of the speaker cabinet. The combination of heavily damped material, comprehensive internal bracing and non-parallel side panels alleviate the problems associated with standing waves, ensuring that the loudspeaker is free from unwanted resonance.

    Externally the cabinet is finely crafted with American Cherry veneer and solid wood mouldings hand finished and polished to an unsurpassed standard. No unsightly retaining lugs spoil the clean lines of the speaker’s front panel when the curved, acoustically transparent grille is removed; this thanks to the cleverly designed magnetised fixing method within the baffle structure.

    PERFORMANCE
    Recommended amplifier power 50 - 225 Watts
    Continuous power handling 135 Watts RMS
    Frequency response 32Hz - 25kHz -6dB
    Sensitivity 95dB (2.83 Volts @ 1 metre)
    Nominal impedance 8 Ohms

    DRIVE UNITS
    Dual Concentric™ high frequency 33mm (1.75”) aluminium alloy dome with Tulip WaveGuide™
    Dual Concentric™ low frequency 380mm (15.00”) treated paper pulp cone with HE twin roll fabric surround. 52mm (2.00”) edge wound voice coil
    Dispersion 90 degrees conical

    CROSSOVER
    Frequency 1.1kHz
    Type Bi-wired, hard wired passive, low pass 2nd order LF, 1st order HF

    CONSTRUCTION
    Enclosure type Twin rear ported
    Volume 115L (4 cu. ft.)
    Dimensions 1100 x 460 x 448mm (43.50 x 18.00 x 22.00”)
    Weight 45kg (99 lbs)
    Finish Cherry veneer with solid cherry trim detail
    [

  9. #39
    Join Date: Nov 2011

    Location: Seaton, Devon, UK

    Posts: 13,241
    I'm Adrian.

    Default

    Al, not sure if your Tannoys have earthing posts or not, but my Arden's do. I have never had speakers with them before so I thought I would give it a try this morning.

    Initially I just used some cheap wire from each to the back of the earth on the amp. I immediately noticed when playing a record what I can only describe as more blackness in the quiet passages and what seems like more depth.

    The Arden manual advises using a reasonably good quality shielded cable. I had 5m of a single line of Van den Hul around that I do not use and a couple of un-used plugs bananas. I soldered the ends up and connected both at the amp to a round tag to go onto the earthing post. I had a look online and it seems that the shielding should be connected at the amp end to the signal wire, which is what I have done, hopefully that is right, at the banana end only the signal wire is connected to the banana and the shielding is cut off and isolated. I plugged these up and there was a slight improvement yet again, so may be worth have a go.

    The other day I was also looking at Atlas cables, not that I will be buying any (well out of my league), but I noticed that they make cables with earths for standard speakers, these appear connected at the amp end to the - negative side and with a lead that can then be connected to a suitable earth. They say this definitely is worth doing.

    Cheers

    Adrian
    Listening is the act of aural discrimination and dissemination of sound, and accepting you get it wrong sometimes.

    Analog Inputs: Pro-Ject Signature 10 TT & arm, Benz Micro LP-S, Michel Cusis MC, Goldring 2500 and Ortofon Rondo Blue cartridges, Hitachi FT5500 mk2 Tuner

    Digital:- Marantz SA-KI Pearl CD player, RaspberryPi/HifiBerry Digi+ Pro, Buffalo NAS Drive

    Amplification:- AudioValve Sunilda phono stage, Krell KSP-7B pre-amp, Krell KSA-80 power amp

    Output: Wilson Benesch Vector speakers, KLH Ultimate One Headphones

    Cables: Tellurium Q Ultra Black II RCA & Chord Epic 2 RCA, various speaker leads, & links


    I think I am nearing audio nirvana, but don’t tell anyone.

  10. #40
    Bigman80 Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AJSki2fly View Post
    Al, not sure if your Tannoys have earthing posts or not, but my Arden's do. I have never had speakers with them before so I thought I would give it a try this morning.

    Initially I just used some cheap wire from each to the back of the earth on the amp. I immediately noticed when playing a record what I can only describe as more blackness in the quiet passages and what seems like more depth.

    The Arden manual advises using a reasonably good quality shielded cable. I had 5m of a single line of Van den Hul around that I do not use and a couple of un-used plugs bananas. I soldered the ends up and connected both at the amp to a round tag to go onto the earthing post. I had a look online and it seems that the shielding should be connected at the amp end to the signal wire, which is what I have done, hopefully that is right, at the banana end only the signal wire is connected to the banana and the shielding is cut off and isolated. I plugged these up and there was a slight improvement yet again, so may be worth have a go.

    The other day I was also looking at Atlas cables, not that I will be buying any (well out of my league), but I noticed that they make cables with earths for standard speakers, these appear connected at the amp end to the - negative side and with a lead that can then be connected to a suitable earth. They say this definitely is worth doing.

    Cheers

    Adrian
    That's why my speaker cables come with a grounding wire. Perfect for Tannoys like yours.

    They do make a difference and I miss them when they aren't connected.

    It is all down to the "blackness" in the background but struggle to find a better description myself.

+ Reply to Thread
Page 4 of 6 FirstFirst ... 23456 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •