Location: Greece
Posts: 249
I'm Panos.
System1: Lenco L75 with custom plinth, SLAT, sph bearing, SG4 external power supply + Alfred Bokrand AB-309 tonearm + Denon DL103R (aluminum body) + Well Tempered 12" tonearm clone + Denon DL103R (wooden body), ASR Mini Basis Exclusive HV, Marantz CD6005, LAB12 DAC1 SE+, Hattor BIG passive + active pre, Lab12 Suono power amp, Falcon LS3/5a Gold Badge, LAB12 Gordian, Belden 8428, Black Cat Red Level Triode, LAB12 Knack MkII
System 2: Roksan Xerxes original (HiFi Inspire plinth) with Maxon ReMax motor + Audiomods Series6 + Ortofon Cadenza Black microridge retipped, ASR Mini Basis Exclusive, Marantz CD6003, Croft Micro25R + Series7R monoblocks (110W/ea), Harbeth SHL5 Plus 40th Anniv.
System 3: Marantz CD6003, Croft SuperMicroII ('R' spec by Croft, Tesla E83CC in phono)+ Series7, Snell Type EII (with bypass caps, new internal wiring, WBT nextgen 0703Cu), Mark Grant HDX1, Atlas Hyper 3.0
Look out for an REL Strata, Stentor or Stadium. Fully adjustable. Proper subs not pretend ones. All those models should be within your budget if you can find one. Stadium is the really big one.
Current Lash Up:
TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.
Wow i knew the pound had tanked but its not quite that bad yet...
I run a stentor 3 (one for sale in classifieds for £600) with proac tablette 10 signatures which are ls3/5 but my amp has a leading class room correction. This rel was designed for hifi
The more modern rel subs are designed for home theatre or home theatre and hifi. REL website actually recommends either one T7i subwoofer or a pair of T5is for a small room with Harberth LS3/5 models.
You should see if you can get a home demo though.
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Location: Greece
Posts: 249
I'm Panos.
I have been eying an SVS SB-3000 https://www.svsound.com/products/sb-3000 , mainly due to its mobile application (iOS), that can set the controls on the fly (via bluetooth) and a built-in DSP. It has EQ functionality that seems quite flexible...
System1: Lenco L75 with custom plinth, SLAT, sph bearing, SG4 external power supply + Alfred Bokrand AB-309 tonearm + Denon DL103R (aluminum body) + Well Tempered 12" tonearm clone + Denon DL103R (wooden body), ASR Mini Basis Exclusive HV, Marantz CD6005, LAB12 DAC1 SE+, Hattor BIG passive + active pre, Lab12 Suono power amp, Falcon LS3/5a Gold Badge, LAB12 Gordian, Belden 8428, Black Cat Red Level Triode, LAB12 Knack MkII
System 2: Roksan Xerxes original (HiFi Inspire plinth) with Maxon ReMax motor + Audiomods Series6 + Ortofon Cadenza Black microridge retipped, ASR Mini Basis Exclusive, Marantz CD6003, Croft Micro25R + Series7R monoblocks (110W/ea), Harbeth SHL5 Plus 40th Anniv.
System 3: Marantz CD6003, Croft SuperMicroII ('R' spec by Croft, Tesla E83CC in phono)+ Series7, Snell Type EII (with bypass caps, new internal wiring, WBT nextgen 0703Cu), Mark Grant HDX1, Atlas Hyper 3.0
Current Lash Up:
TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.
45 day home trial according to the link.
Current Lash Up:
TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.
https://www.minidsp.com/products/min...ox/minidsp-2x4
By all accounts these are very good and would work well with an older REL
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Location: Hampshire
Posts: 306
I'm Mel.
Morning Panos,
I also have the Falcon LS3/5a speakers. Mine were part of an original batch sold as a complete kit just before Jerry at Falcon took them to the Berlin Hi end show and onsubsequently only sold them as built licensed versions at many times the kit price (approx £650). They still use fully matched components and Jerry told me they are unlikely to be identified as different from the licesnsed version if built as directed.
Mine are also used near field - often either side of my computer desk at about 1.6m apart and connected to a Linn amplifier. I am slowly digitising my large lp collection and use them to monitor the recording as well as general background music.
I have an MJ Accoustics Reference 150 sub which I often connect to them with good suuccess. This sub is of traditional analogue design rather than using class D amps with high output. It works very well in stereo hifi setups and this was its original design aim. I followed the makers guide in setting it up for working with HiFi and a guide published in HiFi News for determining sub location (also very important).
Rather than using the normal pre-out from the amp, I use a High Level input which connects the sub to the amp/speakers via the actual speaker connections/outputs. The sub must have the controls and input to support this type of operation. For the Falcons I set the sub to cut in at around 65Hz. I then adjust the sub volume to a point I just hear a bass boost and then back off a touch. I site the sub in a corner which suits me and is in line with the HiFi News guide I read. The primary aim is to integrate the lower missing frequencies from the sub with the higher frequencies the speaker can provide. This is all very subjective according to what you like and takes some time to achieve. I hate big bass boom/boost as normally heard from subs in AV setups. My sub volume is usually set in the lower quarter of its range.
The AB cabinet originally developed to match to the LS3/5a was also supplied in kit form for a short period by Falcon using the official drivers. However this never moved accross to retail production after the kits sold out so I assume Jerry did not feel it was a good match or neccesary to enhance the LS3/5a speaker.
Feel free to ask any questions either via the post or pm as i think the reply is now a little too long.
Mel