The thread is marked as an intrest check so I wouldn't necessarily expect a date set really. Don't think 2 weeks is a long time either. I'd be interested btw depending on date and train fares!
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At the cutting edge of Numptyness!
They have a spare bedroom .........
ken if you need any advice about veneering using hide glue let me know,i used to use it all the time when making and restoring furniture.
a few pointers though,you dont want your iron too hot,spit on the iron and your spit should just start to bubble.
apply glue to both surfaces,let it tack off before starting.start in the middle and work outwards towards the edges,do one half first then the other.
sorry if you know this already.
My System
John Wood KT88 Amp.
Paradise Phono Stage
Sony TTS-8000 Turntable.
PMAT-1010 MK6 Tonearm.
Ortofon Cadenza Bronze
Sony X555ES Cd Player
Yamaha NS1000m Speakers
Thanks Jamie, I've seen lots of Vids on Youtube, they make it look easy, but I know this is not the case. A bit of skill and experience is required. Got myself a veneer hammer with approx 5" blade and have an old electric dry iron for jobs like this. Some folks use an iron some don't, I suppose it depends how quick you can get the glue on to the fairly large surfaces and remain workable. Tips I've picked up are: Pre coat the edges of MDF etc and let it dry before starting, it absorbs a lot of glue and can lift at the edges if you dont. Coat both surfaces and both sides of the veneer, this stops it curling and helps fill any grain/cracks, plus it lubricates the hammer when rubbing down. Like you suggest always start in the middle and work outward in the direction of the grain as much as possible.
I just cut the 8' sheets down into pieces about 1" bigger than the panels, sorted a pair of nice pieces for the fronts and matched the grain to continue over on to the tops.
I have about a foot left from each sheet so can practice a bit first.
There is a member of this parish that has built two sets of my "Upgraded" semi active NS-1000M's, he is in Malaysia. He is very happy with them, though he gave up on the hide glue after a couple of attempts and resorted to contact cement. This was ok for him as he wanted square edges. The finished items look very nice. It was strange advising him on building the cabinets, when I hadn't built my own, but I was using tried and trusted techniques, plus I had built a chip board prototype that worked great.
I shouldn't really be monopolising this thread with my speaker stuff, but it's relevant in as much as I'm hoping to take them to this meeting - and it will keep folks amused till a date is set. I will start a thread when I complete everything and summarise the final design, which has been 3 years work to get to where I am.
yep it seems like your ready to go, soak the glue granules over night helps too and do let the glue tack off before you start.
remeber if you bugger it up its easy to take it off and start again,one of the benefits of hide glue,i used to buy old knackered chest of drawers purely for the old veneer.
My System
John Wood KT88 Amp.
Paradise Phono Stage
Sony TTS-8000 Turntable.
PMAT-1010 MK6 Tonearm.
Ortofon Cadenza Bronze
Sony X555ES Cd Player
Yamaha NS1000m Speakers
Ah, yes of course, I need to soak the glue prior to heating it, looks like my first attempt will be tomorrow.
I have a pickle jar that fits into the babies bottle warmer, I'll use that as a glue pot. The warmer is adjustable and with the rotary control rotated about 2/3 of its movement it maintains about 60 deg C, cycling on the stat between 58 and 62 deg C. I understand 60 deg is the optimum glue temp.
I like your recycling of the old veneer.
This seems a very versatile process, which is why I would like to get the hang of it.
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I'm Micky.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...-VTd8/htmlview
It seems that we may dates ..this is on PFM..Choose one of 13 Oct or 20 Oct or 17 Nov..
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Please see post #1 of this thread which I have now updated to include a few more details and an interactive, on-line spreadsheet that those interested could (please) fill in - thanks .
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