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Thread: Hi fi fuse ? Tweek !

  1. #1
    Join Date: Jun 2017

    Location: Co Antrim,Northern Ireland

    Posts: 102
    I'm Norman.

    Default Hi fi fuse ? Tweek !

    Long time ago in the mists of time (early 80's) we used to polish off the plating on ordinary fuses and yes we felt it made a difference. Rediscovered this when removing the plug on amps that are going for sale soon. This fuse was polished around 1981 and has not tarnished much if any. Photo may not do justice to shine
    Try it and comment, I think I used Brasso
    Regards Norman

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  2. #2
    Join Date: Apr 2015

    Location: Central Virginia

    Posts: 1,751
    I'm Russell.

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    Most interesting! And easy enough to try. Perhaps even some 1500 grit sandpaper to start? And then polish. Iíve heard the testimonies concerning the expensive, multi-hundred dollar fuses, and Iíve wondered how does it sound compared to bypassing the fuse entirely? What if I just replaced the fuse with a copper wire? I realize itís not safe, and could result in a blown circuit should anything go wrong. But just for the sake of argument, which would sound better? The high dollar fuse, or no fuse at all?

    Iím going to try polishing the ends of my fuses and see if I can tell any difference, a tweak that costs nothing!

    Russell

  3. #3
    Join Date: Jun 2017

    Location: Co Antrim,Northern Ireland

    Posts: 102
    I'm Norman.

    Default

    Think I only had 1200 grit handy back then but any fine grade of sandpaper would be suitable.
    Look forward to your findings and if you agree there is a difference why stop at plug fuse. Fused IEC Inlets and internal glass fuses would also be suitable candidates.


    Sent from my S550 using Tapatalk
    Rosewood LP12 Lingo, Ittok LVIII, AT OC9/III, Pioneer N-50A Streamer, Beresford Caimen SEG, Yamaha CD-N301 CD/ Streamer.Puresound T10 & P10, Audio Synthesis Passion Ultimate passive preamp, Audio Synthesis Decade amp. Canor TP10 Headphone amp. Pair MF P150 amps
    Linn Keildh, Hiquphon Tweeter upgrade.With Kustone bases
    Solid core Silver interconnects. Silver plated solid core copper interconnects, KLE Silver and Neutrik plugs and K400 biwire cable. Norstone Bergen 2 table
    Mission Isoplat (anyone remember them?)Synology DS215 , Beyerdynamic DT 990's, ADL GT40 Alpha for ADC Duties.

  4. #4
    Join Date: Oct 2008

    Location: Glasgowshire

    Posts: 7,493
    I'm availableforweddingsAndBarmitzvas.

    Default

    Another tip is that when you've sanded and metal polished your fuse tips...
    use a degreaser as metal polishes (like Autosol) can leave a film on the end caps.

    ...not that I've ever tried it of course... or believe that it makes a difference
    I enjoy Hifi n stuff...

  5. #5
    Join Date: May 2018

    Location: Woking

    Posts: 287
    I'm Chris.

    Default

    This is currently of interest to me.

    Having replaced all my plug fuses with "cheap" silver coated, de-oxit treated ones with subtle but positive results, I took the next step and tried an AMR gold plated 500mA internal fuse in my Jolida tube DAC.

    They're about £12 a pop plus 30-day return policy so no real risk there. On first impressions it has robbed my system of its dynamics so it came straight out and the old original glass one has gone back in and everything has returned to normal.

    However its got me thinking that I certainly have enough in line protection before the DAC so why not try a different rated fuse which will have a thicker/thinner element so theoretically more/less resistance which could have an effect on the sound . . . maybe. I'll probably stop "short" of trying a copper wire or something between the terminals although I know people have had positive results wrapping fuses in copper foil etc.

    I've ordered some 16A and 20A ceramic fuses to try and also have some 10A glass ones to try too.

    I'm not expecting huge improvements but its always fun to try.
    Last edited by Opti-cal; 20-06-2019 at 12:46.

  6. #6
    Join Date: Jun 2017

    Location: Co Antrim,Northern Ireland

    Posts: 102
    I'm Norman.

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    Two valid opinions by Gazjam and Opti-cal, different but no less valid. My own feelings are that it is a 'suck it and see', at the very least it's a cheap trial of what otherwise can be an expensive non-event if you don't avail of a money back trial.
    Certainly has to be worth trying something that only takes a couple of minutes of your time.
    Gazjam's input on not leaving any residue much appreciated
    Interesting comment from Chris that lower value fuses detracted from his system, never tried polishing internal fuses, yet!! Will probably try it in my power amp this weekend
    Looking forward to Chris's observations on different fuse bodies and everyone else who tries polishing fuse bodies

    +1 on its fun to try

    Norman

  7. #7
    Join Date: May 2018

    Location: Woking

    Posts: 287
    I'm Chris.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stormin'Norman View Post
    lower value fuses detracted from his system
    Hi Norman, just to clarify the AMR gold fuse I tried was a straight swap value wise (500mA for 500mA). The fact there was an audible degradation was surprising given that the AMR one "should" be at least equal in performance to the standard original. My pondering relates to trying larger value fuses in place next, as logic dictates that a thicker wire would be better from a power supply perspective (although not from a safety aspect as indicated!).

    Although as I understand it anything pre the transformer of the equipment being AC, gets smoothed and regulated to become DC which is where the improvements should come from. So a fuse really "shouldn't" make a difference but this definitely doesn't mean it can't. However making sure the power is as clean as possible even before the transformer can't be a bad thing.

    Cleaning with de-oxit etc and treating certainly is no bad move. Fuses can benefit just from being removed and replaced as the friction can remove tiny (sometimes invisible) layers of built up crud.

    I've not tried Gazjam's suggestion personally as I've always had new shiny fuses in new shiny plugs! The logic checks out though, nice clean surface, nice clean power.

    I think trying a pack of 5 for £5.00 of silver plated, de-oxit treated fuses (choose your value) is worth a punt. Worked for me but like everything in this hobby may not for everyone in their systems . . .

  8. #8
    Join Date: Feb 2013

    Location: nr. Cambridge

    Posts: 18
    I'm bob.

    Default

    I read on the RA website that the fuses in a their mains cables are there to protect the cable itself. As all of their cables are rated 13 amp, then that is value of the fuse fitted.
    They say that a smaller fuse might degrade the sound by increasing impedance.

    Obviously if you have a cable supplied with your piece of equipment that has a lower value of fuse, it may be that it is the cable that is only rated for that lower level. Just replacing that fuse with a higher rated fuse may not be the safest thing to do. Over time in my system the original cables that came with each were swapped around so much that the values were muddled which was a potential problem. Now mine are all upgraded cables (and fuses!) so here cables can be swapped around without problem.

    Regarding polishing, why would you first use sand paper? However fine it is, there will be scratches (however small) that are unlikely to be polished out with whatever polish you are using. The polish may fill them in though! It was interesting to see how the guardsmen polished their boots before going on parade at the queens official birthday. Scratch them first? I don't think so.

    Over the years I have tried many upgraded cables and fuses, but have tried not to comment here on how they changed things as it might have detracted from the argument which is about the effectiveness of polishing fuse end caps. As a mod it is cheap, relatively easy to do and may well be beneficial.

  9. #9
    Join Date: Feb 2013

    Location: W Lothian

    Posts: 61,560
    I'm Grant.

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    you should use a fuse that covers the max rating of the equipment it is connected to. anything over 700 watts is 13 amp(brown fuse). There used to be 5 amp ones but they are rarely used now, except in older gear.
    Although it is there to stop the cable melting etc it needs to be set to the equipment power draw.
    Regards,
    Grant .... ؠ

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  10. #10
    Join Date: Jun 2017

    Location: Co Antrim,Northern Ireland

    Posts: 102
    I'm Norman.

    Default

    Hi Chris, although I understood perfectly that you were substituting same small value fuses always best to clarify. In Grants example off 700w I personally would use a 5amp as something capable of delivering 3000w i.e. 13 amps may well protect the cable but may be way overated for the bit of kit concerned. Our electrical wholesaler has full range of 1,2,3,5 & 13 amp fuses
    The reason I wouldn't use a 3 amp in example is it is running close to its rating and possibly Overheat.
    But I think the point here is observe the Manufacturers choice of fuse and not to risk fires or lives
    Be safe first people

    Norman

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