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Thread: My Tannoys grew up

  1. #41
    Join Date: Nov 2011

    Location: wirral

    Posts: 245
    I'm frank.

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    I've just rotated the drivers in mine because of slight visible sag. It happens!
    It's nothing I've ever obsessed over but yeah agree it's deffo a worthwhile precaution and takes all of 5 mins to execute

  2. #42
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: West Sūžsēaxe

    Posts: 2,016
    I'm Edward.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cooky View Post
    I don't think it's cone sag. The HPD surrounds are (if done correctly)clamped to the frame not glued and if the clamp holes in the foam aren't lined up properly you can get dimpling in the surround edge as the clamp screws pinch slightly-easy to remedy at the reckoning/refoaming stage but once in place over time it tends to become pretty stuck.
    I've heard many significantly 'improved' Tannoys and been pretty underwhelmed every single time.
    Change the binding posts and lose the lighting flex to the crossover.
    If you are brave, re-install the HF driver after cleaning the gap/voicecoil/inside dome of diaphragm, measure, using the number and position of the paper washers and tightness/lack of of the 4 screws adjust for smoothest response/most pleasing sound, then do the same to the other one-the most significant improvement to a Tannoy DC that cost nothing but time.
    Quote Originally Posted by cooky View Post
    It's nothing I've ever obsessed over but yeah agree it's deffo a worthwhile precaution and takes all of 5 mins to execute
    Well I'm certainly brave Frank, but what you mention seems quite complex and prone to error.

    But first things first, what is the simplest/easiest way of getting the heavy drivers out of the cabs without damaging things such as the baffle? I could fashion hooks of some sort to insert though the screw holes and lift. Or alternatively have the cabs upright and with a helper ease the drivers out. With other speakers I've simply eased the drivers out with the cabs upright and with my other hand caught the driver.

    E

    Hmmm, I'm not getting email alerts on this thread.
    Current: [P20] Roon/Tidal > Custom PC> Chevron Paradox NDF16 > Phast Pre > Neuro. 686 > Tannoy Berkley (RFC tweaks)


  3. #43
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,625
    I'm Geoff.

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    Never try to remove Tannoy drivers with the cabinets upright. The drive units are heavy and awkward to handle this way, it would be all too easy for one to slip and a hand go through the cone trying to save it or it could end up getting broken on the floor.

    I always lay the cabinets on their backs and use a bolt that just fits into the mounting holes to lever the driver up so it can be grasped.
    It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!

  4. #44
    Join Date: Nov 2011

    Location: wirral

    Posts: 245
    I'm frank.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Edward View Post
    Well I'm certainly brave Frank, but what you mention seems quite complex and prone to error.

    But first things first, what is the simplest/easiest way of getting the heavy drivers out of the cabs without damaging things such as the baffle? I could fashion hooks of some sort to insert though the screw holes and lift. Or alternatively have the cabs upright and with a helper ease the drivers out. With other speakers I've simply eased the drivers out with the cabs upright and with my other hand caught the driver.

    E

    Hmmm, I'm not getting email alerts on this thread.
    As Geoff says cab flat on its back, someone to help helps, i use an allen key into one of the bolt holes to hook under the frame then covering the edge near the hole with your other hand to protect the cone incase you slip. Small towel to rest the driver on the baffle .Just be careful as the cut-outs are pretty east to chip chipboard.

  5. #45
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: West Sūžsēaxe

    Posts: 2,016
    I'm Edward.

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    Thanks guys. Yes I would feel uncomfortable with them upright for the risks mentioned.

    §
    Current: [P20] Roon/Tidal > Custom PC> Chevron Paradox NDF16 > Phast Pre > Neuro. 686 > Tannoy Berkley (RFC tweaks)


  6. #46
    Join Date: Apr 2010

    Location: Bristol, since 1978. Current house since 1996!

    Posts: 910
    I'm Chris.

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    My wife has memories of being bored by a guys wife(WIFE!!) telling her in detail how Leak sandwich magnets drop over time, and how you had to turn the speakers at intervals to correct this.
    As her interest in hi-fi is minimal......glazed eyes!
    is the Tannoy problem the same (as you call it cone drop, rather than magnet?)


    Must do mine-both original Sandwiches, and the 3090s!
    Chris.

  7. #47
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,625
    I'm Geoff.

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    Never heard of magnet drop, they have to be rigidly fixed. The Leaks use three beefy bolts if I recall.

    I've heard of and seen bonded magnets fall off completely (NS-1000?), but there's no stage at which rotating would cure this.
    It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!

  8. #48
    Join Date: Apr 2010

    Location: Bristol, since 1978. Current house since 1996!

    Posts: 910
    I'm Chris.

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    You've just saved me lumping huge cabinets about!
    Chris.

  9. #49
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: West Sūžsēaxe

    Posts: 2,016
    I'm Edward.

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    One driver out.

    I've never looked inside an HPD but this looks quite tidy. Anything I need to be aware of here please?

    §
    Current: [P20] Roon/Tidal > Custom PC> Chevron Paradox NDF16 > Phast Pre > Neuro. 686 > Tannoy Berkley (RFC tweaks)


  10. #50
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: West Sūžsēaxe

    Posts: 2,016
    I'm Edward.

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    And now the crossover.

    §
    Current: [P20] Roon/Tidal > Custom PC> Chevron Paradox NDF16 > Phast Pre > Neuro. 686 > Tannoy Berkley (RFC tweaks)


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