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Thread: isolation blocks

  1. #11
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 7,780
    I'm AnDreW.

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    Here's my input for what its worth. I've experimented with Sorbothane under my Isonoe footers on my 1210 and they killer dynamics, BUT, I then tried Sorbothane in between the the Isonoe sto sit screw thread and the 1210 itself and this worked a treat. Detail was improved at no loss of dynamics. I also made some ebony footers to sit under the Isonoe feet and things improved marginally again.
    SOLID STATE

    CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DAC Caiman SEG+15V PSU DECK 1210 Mat SPH SSS Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe/Ebony PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

    VALVE SYSTEM

    PRE
    Croft Epoch(Mega Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Reference XO DECKS Garrard301/401 Mat Teunto Bearing 401 Plinth Moldovan Arms 3009/3012(Ikeda Ag wired) PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister v2 / Royall N SPU's CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ Speaker 10mm Cu + WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostage Paradise(4 Box) / EAR 834 Clone (modded)




  2. #12
    Join Date: Jun 2018

    Location: Mildenhall, Suffolk

    Posts: 229
    I'm John.

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    Looks like Ebony/African Blackwood/Mpingo, all closely related in genus, are offering a positive effect when included as part of a foot.

  3. #13
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: brighton uk.

    Posts: 4,116
    I'm jamie.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnG View Post
    I am keen to begin with trialing different materials for isolation feet.
    I have access to this material in 300mm x 300mm pads, which I was considering to use under the Monoblock Amps. It would potentially have ended up in the TT Isolation Investigations as well.
    I see it is used as Sub Plinth Foot and Sub Foot Support in your set up.
    How did using this and increasing the positions of use in the support set up, show up as a improvement in your the system.
    I recently took my SP10 to a friends to trial out a few different MC's, after a few tracks we tried out different footers, initially by placing the needle on a Non Spinning LP, and having a light knock around the Stand and Sub Plinths and then the TT Plinth.
    After swapping out a few different materials and then combining materials, between the TT and the Sub Plinth, a combination of a thin foam as a base, a 10mm Blackwood Billet , another thin foam, a 10mm Blackwood Billet and a Soundcare foot making contact with the TT Plinth, produced a foot that was largely unaffected by the Light Knuckle Knocks on the Stands and Plinths, when compared to some of the earlier ones.
    On the first replay, following the last combination of materials foot being put into use, there was a immediate audible difference, Bass was much more clean,taught and cut off very precisely, I am sure there were other benefits offered as well, but maybe not so obvious.
    I am curious to learn if a certain type of tweak is beneficial to all, or whether they are room and stand dependent.
    well to be honest i made no logical decision to go for these blocks,i read somewhere that a guy had tried them under his turntable and a few others commented they'd done the same with positive results.
    so i thought id try them at the price ,cheap enough to give them a go.
    i listen to a lot of john williams and julian bream (acoustic guitar) and to me the blocks just add a touch more decay to the strings,likewise with harmonics,so for me they are staying put.

    my train of thought is the less micro vibration or resonance that gets through to hinder or mask what the stylus is picking up the better,i should really get a wall mounted shelf but for the moment these blocks are a step forward.
    My System
    John Wood KT88 Amp.
    Paradise Phono Stage
    Sony TTS-8000 Turntable.
    PMAT-1010 MK6 Tonearm.
    Sony X555ES Cd Player
    Yamaha NS1000m Speakers
    Audioquest Columbia & Colorado interconnects

  4. #14
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 25,458
    I'm Martin.

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    Quote Originally Posted by karma67 View Post

    my train of thought is the less micro vibration or resonance that gets through to hinder or mask what the stylus is picking up the betterd.
    Yep a stylus is massively sensitive to all that stuff which is why doing pretty much anything to turntable setup will noticeably change the sound albeit not always for the better. I wouldn't bother with the hassle and expense of fitting a wall shelf though unless you have a suspended floor as walls still transmit vibrations.


    I still reckon a sand tray has to be the ultimate in isolation. If you think about it, to transmit vibration through sand every single grain has to be set in motion.
    Martin



    Current Lash Up:

    Technics SLP1200 CD Player * Nelson Pass DCB1 Pre amp / Krell KSA50S Power amp * JM Lab Electra 926 loudspeakers *


    'You fool! To think that your ape-brain could contain the full knowledge of the Krell!'

  5. #15
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: brighton uk.

    Posts: 4,116
    I'm jamie.

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    im pretty sure its a pot and bean floor,40's or 50's council flat,there is a spring to the floor if you bounce up and down but that could be down to me being a fat c**t !
    ive always liked the inner tube method but you have to keep adjusting the air pressure which put me off.the sand tray seems fairly easy to fabricate so thats another option to try
    making a wall shelf for me is easy as i work with metal so i may just scratch the itch.

    im not sold on the knocking or tapping test for vibration as in reality when a record is playing nothing that severe is happening at that level but im no expert.
    My System
    John Wood KT88 Amp.
    Paradise Phono Stage
    Sony TTS-8000 Turntable.
    PMAT-1010 MK6 Tonearm.
    Sony X555ES Cd Player
    Yamaha NS1000m Speakers
    Audioquest Columbia & Colorado interconnects

  6. #16
    Join Date: Nov 2015

    Location: Wolverhampton

    Posts: 8,904
    I'm Oliver.

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    Quote Originally Posted by karma67 View Post
    im pretty sure its a pot and bean floor,40's or 50's council flat,there is a spring to the floor if you bounce up and down but that could be down to me being a fat c**t !
    ive always liked the inner tube method but you have to keep adjusting the air pressure which put me off.the sand tray seems fairly easy to fabricate so thats another option to try
    making a wall shelf for me is easy as i work with metal so i may just scratch the itch.
    I have a good old fashioned tongue and groove floor. A wall shelf was the only logical choice. I made a booboo by using ply board for the shelf part but it really did wonders for the turntable.
    Analogue: Technics SP10 MK2 > Phonomac AT-1010 MK6 tonearm > Ortofon Kontrapunkt b > Bigbottle Jfet MC Valve Phonostage (Telefunken Valves)
    Digital: Raspberry Pi 3+/Allo Boss 1.2/Isolator 1.3 & 2x LPSU's with Volumio & JRiver
    Amplification: Nelson Pass DCB1 with Khozmo 48 Step Series Attenuator & Krell KSA100 MK2 Amplifier
    Cables: SPOTFIRE Speaker Cable & SPOTFIRE IC Cables & SPOTFIRE Tonearm cable
    Speakers: Pioneer CS-77A
    Price List For SPOTFIRE Cables here:https://bit.ly/2Uxiv3j

    Alternative reading: http://www.audioaddictsforum.com

  7. #17
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 25,458
    I'm Martin.

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    Quote Originally Posted by karma67 View Post

    im not sold on the knocking or tapping test for vibration as in reality when a record is playing nothing that severe is happening at that level but im no expert.
    I agree, might as well hit the deck with a cricket bat and say 'Ooh it didn't like that!'. It's not really telling you anything useful.
    Martin



    Current Lash Up:

    Technics SLP1200 CD Player * Nelson Pass DCB1 Pre amp / Krell KSA50S Power amp * JM Lab Electra 926 loudspeakers *


    'You fool! To think that your ape-brain could contain the full knowledge of the Krell!'

  8. #18
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 7,780
    I'm AnDreW.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by karma67 View Post
    well to be honest i made no logical decision to go for these blocks,i read somewhere that a guy had tried them under his turntable and a few others commented they'd done the same with positive results.
    so i thought id try them at the price ,cheap enough to give them a go.
    i listen to a lot of john williams and julian bream (acoustic guitar) and to me the blocks just add a touch more decay to the strings,likewise with harmonics,so for me they are staying put.

    my train of thought is the less micro vibration or resonance that gets through to hinder or mask what the stylus is picking up the better,i should really get a wall mounted shelf but for the moment these blocks are a step forward.

    At the end of the day you've found a decent tweak that works well for you and you've shared with everyone else, that's the spirit of the forum!
    SOLID STATE

    CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DAC Caiman SEG+15V PSU DECK 1210 Mat SPH SSS Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe/Ebony PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

    VALVE SYSTEM

    PRE
    Croft Epoch(Mega Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Reference XO DECKS Garrard301/401 Mat Teunto Bearing 401 Plinth Moldovan Arms 3009/3012(Ikeda Ag wired) PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister v2 / Royall N SPU's CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ Speaker 10mm Cu + WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostage Paradise(4 Box) / EAR 834 Clone (modded)




  9. #19
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Birmingham

    Posts: 4,673
    I'm James.

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    So many ways of Isolating turntables, I think it is a matter of trial and error. Every material will influence the sound but you can't beat heavy mass built into the turntable to isolate it effictively. However I am sure owners of Rega turntables will disagree!

    I have tried all sorts of materials, however I have found a combination of Isolation material works best. The different materials and layering of Isolation all cancelling out different levels/ frequencies of vibration. I would put effort into this rather than rely on one particular isolation material.

    My own turntable Isolation starts with 4 Vibrapods(sorbathane), then a slab of compact laminate followed by the turntable feet which are cones sitting on ball bearings. The cones are also isolated with a dense foam material from the actual turntable. Finally the turntable has a massive sheet of solid steel bolted to the bottom of the plinth which is made of MDF.
    The whole lot sits on a wood table.

    The whole combination works very effectively and I can wack up the sound level in my small listening room without any adverse airborne or any other type of vibration affecting the sound in a detrimental way.
    VPI Scout 1.1 - Ortofon 2M Black FGS - Croft 25R+ - Croft Series 7 - Spendor SP2

  10. #20
    Join Date: Jun 2018

    Location: Mildenhall, Suffolk

    Posts: 229
    I'm John.

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    I forgot to include in my earlier post, the Sub Plinth was Maple that was supported by a Kiln Dried Sand Bed.
    The sand bed was set up, as a result of working with a CDP Isolation Platform.
    The method incorporated had the most positive effect on the CDP.
    I believe a very fine grade of sand was used, not sharp sand.
    Another way to make a sand bed for a Plinth is to cut open a bicycle inner tube, seal one end, pour in Kiln dried sand, and then seal the open end, this method has been used for to control vibration on Telescopes and Long Telephoto lenses. It will be totally stable, as the moisture level of the sand will be sealed, it will be more user friendly than a bed of sand exposed to the air.
    A really skilled type, where Hifi is concerned might be able to take this method a little further.
    Slit the inner tube carefully, insert a small funnel, add Kiln Dried Sand, reseal the tube with a puncture repair kit.
    Add a little inflation to the tube, or maybe that is taking it a little too far
    Last edited by JohnG; 19-05-2019 at 16:16. Reason: Typo Error

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