Location: Hamburg, DE
Posts: 20
I'm Marinus.
Haha, my wording was imprecise, again. I meant: variable is (the) 'normal' (ac) input, right?
A lot of things in sound do not actually happen in the air, but in one's mind. This is precisely why I want to discriminate better what is purely subjective and what is actually happening in the amps. There is an audible difference between the DC inputs and the normal, so I thought maybe you two know something. Clive seemed to prefer the DC input (in another forum). By now, I still lack criteria for 'good': My speakers are only cheap early 90s Canton Karat 920 DC. I will get them replaced in a while. Until then, I can only do comparisions between those amps I have around and see how they differ: an entry level Rotel integrated (RA-921), and alternatively to the AH 380, an Behringer A800 PA power amp. Both are clearly outperformed by the Philips 380 when it comes to resolution, detail and especially midrange reproduction, which the Philips does really nice. The Rotel is just mud and distorts the low end. The Behringer power amp again has much more bass authority than the Philips, allthoug it was tested with only 150 watts per channel over at Audio Science Review. This makes it's output comparable to the AH 380. I do not know if this bass authority (it is so dry, controlled, direct and powerful!) is because Class D technology delivers energy more explosively in the low frequencies or whether I need to restore something in the Philips power amp? The Philips is great in the mids! This is still bugging me, I miss some deeper bass. The Rotel sounds 'bassy' in a bad way, but I have to use tone controls to get deep volume from the Philips. Is this actually a sign of quality: a flat amp, connected to little speakers, not generating deep volume?
In theory most amps should drive most speakers, in practice I have found differently, same as you.
Usually I use a Krell and this does have better bass performance than the AH 380 as you describe. The Philips just doesn't seem to have the same wallop. But it does give a sweet and clean sound which IME separates it from a lot of other solid state power amps.
The only mod I want to do on mine is sort out some better binding posts for the speaker cable. I was going to keep it original but they are just too awkward to use and won't take my preferred speaker cable.
Current Lash Up:
TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.
Location: Hamburg, DE
Posts: 20
I'm Marinus.
Re DC vs AC inputs....it’s too long since I messed about with the amp in my best system. Differences with the speakers it’s currently hooked up to will be far less obvious...and I’ve not experimented with that setup so I can’t really give an opinion.
TT 1 Trans-Fi Salvation with magnetic bearing + Trans-Fi Terminator T3Pro + London Reference
TT 2 Garrard 301 with NWA main bearing + Audiomods Series Six 10.5" + Ortofon 2M Mono SE
Digital Lindemann Bridge + Gustard R26 with LB external clock
Pre and Power Amp EWA M40P + M40A
Bass Amp & DSP Behringer iNuke NU3000DSP x 2
Speakers 1 Bastanis Sagarmatha Duo with twin baffleless 15" bass drivers per side
Speakers 2 MarkaudioSota Viotti Tower