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Thread: speaker internal damping.

  1. #11
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: cheltenham

    Posts: 746
    I'm matt.

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    I'd give the bass port a bit more free space though.
    Agree. Too close to the port imo.

  2. #12
    Join Date: Aug 2012

    Location: Eton wick

    Posts: 1,677
    I'm Philip.

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    Petroleum based.
    The other half will love that.
    They will instantaneously become garden speakers!

  3. #13
    Join Date: Aug 2012

    Location: Eton wick

    Posts: 1,677
    I'm Philip.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnG View Post
    Can you supply the Speaker Model that you are planning on doing the work to.
    There may be information known off that will benfit your plan.
    JBL L26.
    I am upgrading to the Gravesen crossovers and replacing the internal damping as per his recommendations.

    Jantzen 8mm felt, with jantzen polyester accoustilux on top.

    All ordered....just can't get the glue he recommends in the uk.
    Though he does recommend a bostik product.

  4. #14
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,624
    I'm Geoff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by philv View Post
    All ordered....just can't get the glue he recommends in the uk.
    Though he does recommend a bostik product.
    Use any brand of aerosol carpet contact adhesive on both mating faces, let it dry until tacky and push firmly into place.

    Try B&Q or ebay or of course a carpet shop, but they'll be pricey.
    It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!

  5. #15
    Join Date: Jun 2018

    Location: Mildenhall, Suffolk

    Posts: 380
    I'm John.

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    I've had a look at the site your taking instruction from.
    Are you going to the extent of the additional internal bracing shown in the 3 way version ?
    The additional bracing will have a positive effect on the cabinet, and the removable front panel will aid any further exercises in the use of damping.
    As the drivers in use should be run in, they will remain consistent in their presentation,this leaves scope to attenuate the speakers with use of your damping material to obtain your preferred end product.

  6. #16
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Canaries

    Posts: 193

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    When I built my WD25t speakers I used Arboseal GZ tape, as recommended by Peter Comeau in his kits, over all the inner faces of all panels and braces erc. Tedious but worth it I think, my boxes are extremely inert. My knuckles bear witness. I think it’s butyl rubber and self sticking by its nature, none of it has ever come unstuck..

  7. #17
    Join Date: Aug 2012

    Location: Eton wick

    Posts: 1,677
    I'm Philip.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnG View Post
    I've had a look at the site your taking instruction from.
    Are you going to the extent of the additional internal bracing shown in the 3 way version ?
    The additional bracing will have a positive effect on the cabinet, and the removable front panel will aid any further exercises in the use of damping.
    As the drivers in use should be run in, they will remain consistent in their presentation,this leaves scope to attenuate the speakers with use of your damping material to obtain your preferred end product.
    A Refoam, new crossovers/wirign/binding posts, and new damping material.
    is as far as it goes.

  8. #18
    Join Date: Aug 2012

    Location: Eton wick

    Posts: 1,677
    I'm Philip.

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    Hum.
    So i felted the internal panels with 8mm felt.

    But the polyester damping that arrived is only 10 to 15mm thick.
    I was expecting 30mm.

    Is 10 to 15mm going to be ok?
    Not much different to the fibreglass original material i took out.

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