Well.....above 100Hz I only use 2W to 5W. It's a bit crazy 1.8kW on the bass and 5W on the rest.
Well.....above 100Hz I only use 2W to 5W. It's a bit crazy 1.8kW on the bass and 5W on the rest.
TT 1 Trans-Fi Salvation with magnetic bearing + Trans-Fi Terminator T3Pro + London Reference
TT 2 Garrard 301 with NWA main bearing + Audiomods Series Six 10.5" + Ortofon 2M Mono SE
Digital Lindemann Bridge + Gustard R26 with LB external clock
Pre and Power Amp EWA M40P + M40A
Bass Amp & DSP Behringer iNuke NU3000DSP x 2
Speakers 1 Bastanis Sagarmatha Duo with twin baffleless 15" bass drivers per side
Speakers 2 MarkaudioSota Viotti Tower
Location: Dagenham Essex
Posts: 11,215
I'm Allen.
Lift the amps and stand them on some wood battens , better air circulation , or you could mount a computer fan unit behind each one blowing low volume of air underneath ( Hmm I just said low volume )
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Well , at least they're working Justin , and you will know what to do the next time . Wife telling you to turn it down I've got one of those too
Regards
Brian
Sell your cleverness and buy bewilderment . (Rumi )
Korus Computer Audio music server
JustBoom DAC . HRT Musicstreamer 2
Amplifier : Sony TA FB740R
Speakers : Tannoy 637
Interconnects : MS Audio / Klotz MC5000 .
Speaker cables : Western Electric 16AG
Either side of each mono are the output transistors. They get hot and the gap between each amp in the rack is inadequate. So those get even hotter as each amp heats the other one up.
The answer is not to drive them so hard for such a long time. They just get warm at normal levels.
Or move them apart in the rack which can be done but they have to be moved forward or backwards to space them, which looks bad.
Or rely on the thermal protection
Location: KY - Scotland
Posts: 5,470
I'm Mike.
Thing is you can only press that button 3 times it it's a full rebuild.
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Just kidding
Justin, you are using hardcore speakers that drink watts like a Scottish alcoholic drinks Buckfast. Count yourself lucky that you didn’t damage your amps, and also you’ll already know that very small volume increases can result in a lot more Watts.
Mana Acoustics Racks / Bright Star IsoNodes Decoupling >> Allo DigiOne Player >> Pedja Rogic's Audial Model S DAC + Pioneer PL-71 turntable / Vista Audio phono-1 mk II / Denon PCL-5 headshell / Reson Reca >> LFD DLS >> LFD PA2M (SE) >> Royd RR3s.
Neil, you are correct.
Actually I have to say I am impressed by the Accuphase's ability to cope with it aged 44 years.
The 211s never shutdown. A 400 Watt KT150 amp did. Many, many times. Granted only in triode mode at 250 Watts.
The 211s have an inbuilt protection mechanism. You can hear when they don't like it. So you never play beyond their limitations. Which is capable enough and they are the long term faves.
The last time I checked the Accuphase line up they were all a bit pussy powered into 4 Ohms.
Listening is the act of aural discrimination and dissemination of sound, and accepting you get it wrong sometimes.
Analog Inputs: Pro-Ject Signature 10 TT & arm, Benz Micro LP-S, Michel Cusis MC, Goldring 2500 and Ortofon Rondo Blue cartridges, Hitachi FT5500 mk2 Tuner
Digital:- Marantz SA-KI Pearl CD player, RaspberryPi/HifiBerry Digi+ Pro, Buffalo NAS Drive
Amplification:- AudioValve Sunilda phono stage, Krell KSP-7B pre-amp, Krell KSA-80 power amp
Output: Wilson Benesch Vector speakers, KLH Ultimate One Headphones
Cables: Tellurium Q Ultra Black II RCA & Chord Epic 2 RCA, various speaker leads, & links
I think I am nearing audio nirvana, but don’t tell anyone.
Great news its not damaged
Regards Neil