Yes they are fussy to setup as you say, the stylus is so small its almost invisisble to the naked eye, once locked in though they are magical .
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Yes they are fussy to setup as you say, the stylus is so small its almost invisisble to the naked eye, once locked in though they are magical .
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CTC Classic 301 , SPH bearing and Hanze Hifi HAT CPS-2 all analogue power supply / Tenuto Mk2 mat / custom Panzerholz and Kewasinga articulating plinth / Track audio isolation feet / Reed tonearm / Audio Technica ART 9 / 2 box BigBottle mk3 phonostage with Clarity cap CMR and NOS Telefunkens valves / Croft 25R preamp with upgraded 12BH7A line stage and NOS 1956 RCA valves / Croft 7R monoblocks with NOS 56 RCA valves/ Dynaudio Contour 30i speakers / Spotfire interconnects and speaker cables / Merlin Scorpion mains block / Rhodium mains cables / Marantz CD DAC /
Thanks for the advice guys, I think the ART9 is going to be the one I go for, I noticed that someone who has a room at the WAM show is running one so I'm going to make a bee line for their room and have a listen
As the late Colonel Sanders once said
"I'm too drunk to taste this chicken!!"
The ART9 arrives tomorrow, I could do with some advice on how to best match it to my Audiomods Series 5 arm
As the late Colonel Sanders once said
"I'm too drunk to taste this chicken!!"
OK so the arm has a bag with extra head weights and a variable mass counterweight, I'll need to match the new cart and alter the mass of the tonearm with the weights so there's some synergy, or am I just spouting crap
As the late Colonel Sanders once said
"I'm too drunk to taste this chicken!!"
Well, the usual rule of thumb for cartridges is making sure the weight is closer to the pivot what the end of the arm.
So, if the cart is heavy and the weight is nearly off the stub, you need to go heavier. If the cart is light, and the weight is right up to the pivot, go a bit lighter with the weight.
There is a theory that the closer your weight is to the pivot, the better sound you will get. That said, I only have one weight, it's near the rear of the arm and think it's just perfect lol
Location: Sussex By The Sea
Posts: 352
I'm Paul.
HI-FI SYSTEM:-
Revox B250 Amp.
Revox PR 99 mk2 R2R.
Revox B126 C/D Player.
Yamaha GT2000 T/Table with Shure MKIV Cartridge and Jeco VN-45HE SAS/R Stylus.
Bang & Olufsen Beolab18's and the 19 Sub Speakers.
A/V 5.1 System :-
Soundsend Wisa box.
Harmen Kardon front and rear satellite.
Legend 10.2 Silverback Active Centre.
Location: Sussex By The Sea
Posts: 352
I'm Paul.
HI-FI SYSTEM:-
Revox B250 Amp.
Revox PR 99 mk2 R2R.
Revox B126 C/D Player.
Yamaha GT2000 T/Table with Shure MKIV Cartridge and Jeco VN-45HE SAS/R Stylus.
Bang & Olufsen Beolab18's and the 19 Sub Speakers.
A/V 5.1 System :-
Soundsend Wisa box.
Harmen Kardon front and rear satellite.
Legend 10.2 Silverback Active Centre.
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 542
I'm mark.
My fault,I made a comment on FB. Add the heavy ally weight and it'll sing. If your unsure/not trusting, fit with nothing and blutack the weight on top to try. I started with OC9 and PTG's. When I first got the arm found it bass light, adding the weight filled it out.
You heard my Art9 at Kegworth, look at the specs of the arm (Mission Mechanic) the mismatch is off the scale, yet I still put another 3g of brass nuts, not a lot of this makes sense. See below
I know, for years we've been told to get the weight near the bearing, drop the weight to put it in the same plane as the cart, but if you read Jeff's 'literature' he doesn't agree. Can't say I've made scientific tests to the theory, but with weights at the head end there isn't much choice.
*Jeff uses constrained lead counterweight, very similar to the Zeta and Mechanic.
**Just off to check Audiomods literature, memory plays games
Copied form AM site
"A good indicator of when extra mass is needed is the bass performance. If bass seems light, try adding one of the headshell shims."