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Thread: Bigblog - The Revolving Door of HiFi Auditioning

  1. #671
    Join Date: Nov 2015

    Location: Wolverhampton

    Posts: 9,762
    I'm Oliver.

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    Quote Originally Posted by struth View Post
    sure u will crack the problem mate
    I was happy before. Just having a play around to see what else could be gained. I'm happy to go back to the 4700uf caps so I know I can get that performance level back.
    Analogue: Technics SP10 MK2 > Phonomac AT-1010 MK6 tonearm > Ortofon Kontrapunkt b > Bigbottle Jfet MC Valve Phonostage
    Digital: Orchard Audio PecanPi with JRiver
    Preamplifier: DCB1 with Khozmo 48 Step Series Attenuator or Neurochrome Differential Preamp
    Amplification: Neurochrome Modulus 686
    Cables: SPOTFIRE Speaker Cable & SPOTFIRE IC Cables & SPOTFIRE Tonearm cable
    Speakers: Mordaunt Short Performance 880

    Price List For SPOTFIRE Cables here:https://bit.ly/2Uxiv3j

    Alternative reading: http://www.audioaddictsforum.com

  2. #672
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Bristol

    Posts: 5,817
    I'm Justin.

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    Comparing the Dueland 0.47uF and Jupiter 2.2 uF (same spec as Golden Gate 2) copper foils in the output stage of my DAC the Jupiter's are smoother and warmer as a rule and should give more bass extension.

    80% of the time I use the Jupiters. But with some valves like EML AD1 the Duelands seem to work in sympathy for a better result. They definitely give a slightly higher resolution and a faster sound.

    So it's not clear cut when you introduce other variables.

    Just saying. It's pretty subtle but it is there. But I am not sure how much is due to the change in value or manufacturing method.

    At that rating though copper foils ain't happening.

    You'll find something proving the LCD tracks hold up! Be careful.

  3. #673
    Join Date: Nov 2015

    Location: Wolverhampton

    Posts: 9,762
    I'm Oliver.

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    Quote Originally Posted by User211 View Post
    Comparing the Dueland 0.47uF and Jupiter 2.2 uF (same spec as Golden Gate 2) copper foils in the output stage of my DAC the Jupiter's are smoother and warmer as a rule and should give more bass extension.

    80% of the time I use the Jupiters. But with some valves like EML AD1 the Duelands seem to work in sympathy for a better result. They definitely give a slightly higher resolution and a faster sound.

    So it's not clear cut when you introduce other variables.

    Just saying. It's pretty subtle but it is there. But I am not sure how much is due to the change in value or manufacturing method.

    At that rating though copper foils ain't happening.

    You'll find something proving the LCD tracks hold up! Be careful.
    Yep, I'm just going to go back to the 4700uf that I had in before. They were spot on.

    Shouldn't have messed with it lol.

    Yes, careful with the tracks!
    Analogue: Technics SP10 MK2 > Phonomac AT-1010 MK6 tonearm > Ortofon Kontrapunkt b > Bigbottle Jfet MC Valve Phonostage
    Digital: Orchard Audio PecanPi with JRiver
    Preamplifier: DCB1 with Khozmo 48 Step Series Attenuator or Neurochrome Differential Preamp
    Amplification: Neurochrome Modulus 686
    Cables: SPOTFIRE Speaker Cable & SPOTFIRE IC Cables & SPOTFIRE Tonearm cable
    Speakers: Mordaunt Short Performance 880

    Price List For SPOTFIRE Cables here:https://bit.ly/2Uxiv3j

    Alternative reading: http://www.audioaddictsforum.com

  4. #674
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Bristol

    Posts: 5,817
    I'm Justin.

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    LCD? PCB!!!

  5. #675
    Join Date: Nov 2015

    Location: Wolverhampton

    Posts: 9,762
    I'm Oliver.

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    Quote Originally Posted by User211 View Post
    LCD? PCB!!!
    Haha
    Analogue: Technics SP10 MK2 > Phonomac AT-1010 MK6 tonearm > Ortofon Kontrapunkt b > Bigbottle Jfet MC Valve Phonostage
    Digital: Orchard Audio PecanPi with JRiver
    Preamplifier: DCB1 with Khozmo 48 Step Series Attenuator or Neurochrome Differential Preamp
    Amplification: Neurochrome Modulus 686
    Cables: SPOTFIRE Speaker Cable & SPOTFIRE IC Cables & SPOTFIRE Tonearm cable
    Speakers: Mordaunt Short Performance 880

    Price List For SPOTFIRE Cables here:https://bit.ly/2Uxiv3j

    Alternative reading: http://www.audioaddictsforum.com

  6. #676
    Join Date: Nov 2015

    Location: Wolverhampton

    Posts: 9,762
    I'm Oliver.

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    A few days ago now, maybe weeks, I received my new 32mm panzer plinth for the SP10 from Phonomac.

    He offered to paint it for me too but I quite liked the bare panz look but then out of the blue, a pic of my old matt black plinthed SP10 popped up on my phones gallery. It just looked far sexier!

    I decided to paint the new plinth lol.

    A random sighting of matt black spay cans in Aldi probably brought this plan forward and for 3, what could go wrong.

    Well, a fair bit. Being fairly new to spray painting, I went for a light sanding and light coats, just to see how it looked. Initially, it looked superb. But 3 days after painting it, it was still soft and showed no hint of hardening up.

    I tried sanding it down and it just felt absolutely horrible.

    I went almost back to the wood to get it off. Nasty stuff.

    Second attempt with some paint from wickes was fairly successful but after a few hours it was drying nicely. Looked in on it in the morning and it had bubbled in places. Obviously some sort of reaction to the previous paint.

    I decided to read a bit more on the subject. I managed to find a product called Plasticote, which got good reviews and required no primer.

    I bought a tin and gave it a go. Wonderful stuff. Unfortunately, it seems I haven't flatted the surface with a fine enough grit so a few sander marks, done in frustration are visible as is a bit of the old paint underneath.

    However I was aware this may be the case but decided not to go too thorough in case the paint was rubbish.

    Today I've bought a random orbital sander and some super fine grit paper. I will methodically flat it now and have a proper go at it.

    The pics are of the plinth right now, just before I start a thorough work over of it.
    Analogue: Technics SP10 MK2 > Phonomac AT-1010 MK6 tonearm > Ortofon Kontrapunkt b > Bigbottle Jfet MC Valve Phonostage
    Digital: Orchard Audio PecanPi with JRiver
    Preamplifier: DCB1 with Khozmo 48 Step Series Attenuator or Neurochrome Differential Preamp
    Amplification: Neurochrome Modulus 686
    Cables: SPOTFIRE Speaker Cable & SPOTFIRE IC Cables & SPOTFIRE Tonearm cable
    Speakers: Mordaunt Short Performance 880

    Price List For SPOTFIRE Cables here:https://bit.ly/2Uxiv3j

    Alternative reading: http://www.audioaddictsforum.com

  7. #677
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: Northamptonshire

    Posts: 169
    I'm Angus.

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    Ah, now you're discovering the joys of getting a decent paint finish on a plinth

  8. #678
    Join Date: Nov 2015

    Location: Wolverhampton

    Posts: 9,762
    I'm Oliver.

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    Quote Originally Posted by phonomac View Post
    Ah, now you're discovering the joys of getting a decent paint finish on a plinth
    Hahaha, yes.

    The plasticoat is pretty easy but a bit of filler on the little cracks in the wood, in the beginning, would have been beneficial

    It's going to look superb if I can get this attempt right.
    Analogue: Technics SP10 MK2 > Phonomac AT-1010 MK6 tonearm > Ortofon Kontrapunkt b > Bigbottle Jfet MC Valve Phonostage
    Digital: Orchard Audio PecanPi with JRiver
    Preamplifier: DCB1 with Khozmo 48 Step Series Attenuator or Neurochrome Differential Preamp
    Amplification: Neurochrome Modulus 686
    Cables: SPOTFIRE Speaker Cable & SPOTFIRE IC Cables & SPOTFIRE Tonearm cable
    Speakers: Mordaunt Short Performance 880

    Price List For SPOTFIRE Cables here:https://bit.ly/2Uxiv3j

    Alternative reading: http://www.audioaddictsforum.com

  9. #679
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: brighton uk.

    Posts: 4,380
    I'm jamie.

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    the key to getting a good finish is in the prep work mate,sand down to 320 or 400 grit wet and dry by hand after the orbitals done its bit,add a bit of washing up liquid to the water to stop the paper clogging,using a sanding block helps too .
    My System
    John Wood KT88 Amp.
    Paradise Phono Stage
    Sony TTS-8000 Turntable.
    PMAT-1010 MK6 Tonearm.
    Ortofon KB with vienna upgrade
    Sony X555ES Cd Player
    Yamaha NS1000m Speakers
    KARMA Interconnects & Tonearm Cable

  10. #680
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Seaford UK

    Posts: 1,038
    I'm Dennis.

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    Oliver, I would consider your cap situation a little more, it could be as Grant alludes to, that the increase in (I presume), bass extension is masking the top to an extent which is greater.

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