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Thread: Bigblog - The Revolving Door of HiFi Auditioning

  1. #301
    Join Date: Nov 2015

    Location: Wolverhampton

    Posts: 9,049
    I'm Oliver.

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    Quote Originally Posted by karma67 View Post
    ah,yes i meant the din plug fit into the tonearm
    I've made a fair few of these now and used the same plug for all of them, I have never heard of a problem with them and when I put one in the Alphason it was snug.
    Analogue: Technics SP10 MK2 > Phonomac AT-1010 MK6 tonearm > Ortofon Kontrapunkt b > Bigbottle Jfet MC Valve Phonostage (Telefunken Valves)
    Digital: Raspberry Pi 3+/Allo Boss 1.2/Isolator 1.3 & 2x LPSU's with Volumio & JRiver
    Amplification: Nelson Pass DCB1 with Khozmo 48 Step Series Attenuator & Krell KSA100 MK2 Amplifier
    Cables: SPOTFIRE Speaker Cable & SPOTFIRE IC Cables & SPOTFIRE Tonearm cable
    Speakers: Pioneer CS-77A

    Price List For SPOTFIRE Cables here:https://bit.ly/2Uxiv3j

    Alternative reading: http://www.audioaddictsforum.com

  2. #302
    Join Date: Apr 2015

    Location: Central Virginia

    Posts: 1,741
    I'm Russell.

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    Hi Oli, sorry for being late to the party yet again! But I was recovering from surgery.

    Going way back to your speaker wire terminals. Nice looking stuff, back around #150 or so? I felt the same way about new banana jacks on my speaker cables, so I had on hand some brass tubing. Hobby stuff, just the right size! I twisted the wire tight, ran it inside the brass tube, and soldered the tube full. Then I inserted that tube into my jack and tightened the screws down onto it. It is very thin walled, and the screws made a healthy dent, very snug and secure, without having any solder on the Jack itself.

    I too found that spade lugs were best on the Krell terminals, I did the same trick, a short, 1/2 inch maybe, brass tube, soldered onto the wire, and cranked the locking screws in the spade lugs down tight, theyíve been working for the best part of a year with no complaints.
    These are my actual terminals.

    And I hear you too on the power supply issues on your Pecan Pi. I canít recall if Iíve mentioned it, but I saw on eBay, a lithium battery pack designed expressly for the Pi format, same size and shape. I do believe it was originally for a tablet? And they got lucky on the size? And puts out the 15v, may have been 16v? Powering your circuit from battery power may not remove all digital noise, since it is a digital circuit? But it would provide a perfectly silent voltage source. I know battery power has a profound effect on my phono preamp! It could be an affordable way to cleanup your signal? Use the power supply to charge the battery, and do your critical listening on battery alone. Iíll look on eBay and see if I can find it again, I donít recall it being expensive, under $50.

    And thanks for an excellent writeup! I was watching YouTube videos on how to set up these boards, etc, before surgery, but youíre always one step ahead of me! And now I donít need to experiment, I want to create a setup exactly like yours! Excellent stuff! And again, I apologize for being late, a day late and a dollar short, as they say.

    Russell

  3. #303
    Join Date: Nov 2015

    Location: Wolverhampton

    Posts: 9,049
    I'm Oliver.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by alphaGT View Post
    Hi Oli, sorry for being late to the party yet again! But I was recovering from surgery.

    Going way back to your speaker wire terminals. Nice looking stuff, back around #150 or so? I felt the same way about new banana jacks on my speaker cables, so I had on hand some brass tubing. Hobby stuff, just the right size! I twisted the wire tight, ran it inside the brass tube, and soldered the tube full. Then I inserted that tube into my jack and tightened the screws down onto it. It is very thin walled, and the screws made a healthy dent, very snug and secure, without having any solder on the Jack itself.

    I too found that spade lugs were best on the Krell terminals, I did the same trick, a short, 1/2 inch maybe, brass tube, soldered onto the wire, and cranked the locking screws in the spade lugs down tight, theyíve been working for the best part of a year with no complaints.
    These are my actual terminals.

    And I hear you too on the power supply issues on your Pecan Pi. I canít recall if Iíve mentioned it, but I saw on eBay, a lithium battery pack designed expressly for the Pi format, same size and shape. I do believe it was originally for a tablet? And they got lucky on the size? And puts out the 15v, may have been 16v? Powering your circuit from battery power may not remove all digital noise, since it is a digital circuit? But it would provide a perfectly silent voltage source. I know battery power has a profound effect on my phono preamp! It could be an affordable way to cleanup your signal? Use the power supply to charge the battery, and do your critical listening on battery alone. Iíll look on eBay and see if I can find it again, I donít recall it being expensive, under $50.

    And thanks for an excellent writeup! I was watching YouTube videos on how to set up these boards, etc, before surgery, but youíre always one step ahead of me! And now I donít need to experiment, I want to create a setup exactly like yours! Excellent stuff! And again, I apologize for being late, a day late and a dollar short, as they say.

    Russell
    Hi Russell, don't apologise!

    I was just reading your post about the surgery. Wow, seems like they have given you a massive overhaul! I hope you get back up to full speed soon.

    The speaker connections are now settled in terms of being finalised. The new bananas with sprung arm are fantastic quality and certainly look the business.

    The Krell 100% needs spades but I am completely unimpressed with the speaker posts so they will be removed and replaced by some very nice ones from the same company that provided my new bananas. This is going to require a bit of thought though as I need to try and fit them in the same holes !

    If I were you, I'd get rid of any brass I. Your connections, believe me, you will notice if you do.

    The PecanPi was only here on loan but the PSU didn't appear to be the issue. I still believe that it's directly related to the RPI giving out interference via the ethernet connection somehow. The noise was absolutely in sync with the LED on the RPI which illuminated as the data transfers. I have put that to Leo but he suggests it's hasn't been reported elsewhere. I did find one guy who heard the same as me so it's not an isolated Incident. It was actually a really good listen so if you can get a loan unit, it may be worth giving it a listen.

    In a recent bake off in Munich, the Allo stuff came out on top so AFAIC, it's a safe bet to buy from Allo, especially as i completely agree lol.

    I'd like to get the Katana. It was subtle but enough of an improvement for me to want one.
    Analogue: Technics SP10 MK2 > Phonomac AT-1010 MK6 tonearm > Ortofon Kontrapunkt b > Bigbottle Jfet MC Valve Phonostage (Telefunken Valves)
    Digital: Raspberry Pi 3+/Allo Boss 1.2/Isolator 1.3 & 2x LPSU's with Volumio & JRiver
    Amplification: Nelson Pass DCB1 with Khozmo 48 Step Series Attenuator & Krell KSA100 MK2 Amplifier
    Cables: SPOTFIRE Speaker Cable & SPOTFIRE IC Cables & SPOTFIRE Tonearm cable
    Speakers: Pioneer CS-77A

    Price List For SPOTFIRE Cables here:https://bit.ly/2Uxiv3j

    Alternative reading: http://www.audioaddictsforum.com

  4. #304
    Join Date: Nov 2015

    Location: Wolverhampton

    Posts: 9,049
    I'm Oliver.

    Default

    And........ Done,

    Analogue: Technics SP10 MK2 > Phonomac AT-1010 MK6 tonearm > Ortofon Kontrapunkt b > Bigbottle Jfet MC Valve Phonostage (Telefunken Valves)
    Digital: Raspberry Pi 3+/Allo Boss 1.2/Isolator 1.3 & 2x LPSU's with Volumio & JRiver
    Amplification: Nelson Pass DCB1 with Khozmo 48 Step Series Attenuator & Krell KSA100 MK2 Amplifier
    Cables: SPOTFIRE Speaker Cable & SPOTFIRE IC Cables & SPOTFIRE Tonearm cable
    Speakers: Pioneer CS-77A

    Price List For SPOTFIRE Cables here:https://bit.ly/2Uxiv3j

    Alternative reading: http://www.audioaddictsforum.com

  5. #305
    Join Date: Apr 2015

    Location: Central Virginia

    Posts: 1,741
    I'm Russell.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigman80 View Post
    Hi Russell, don't apologise!

    I was just reading your post about the surgery. Wow, seems like they have given you a massive overhaul! I hope you get back up to full speed soon.

    The speaker connections are now settled in terms of being finalised. The new bananas with sprung arm are fantastic quality and certainly look the business.

    The Krell 100% needs spades but I am completely unimpressed with the speaker posts so they will be removed and replaced by some very nice ones from the same company that provided my new bananas. This is going to require a bit of thought though as I need to try and fit them in the same holes !

    If I were you, I'd get rid of any brass I. Your connections, believe me, you will notice if you do.

    The PecanPi was only here on loan but the PSU didn't appear to be the issue. I still believe that it's directly related to the RPI giving out interference via the ethernet connection somehow. The noise was absolutely in sync with the LED on the RPI which illuminated as the data transfers. I have put that to Leo but he suggests it's hasn't been reported elsewhere. I did find one guy who heard the same as me so it's not an isolated Incident. It was actually a really good listen so if you can get a loan unit, it may be worth giving it a listen.

    In a recent bake off in Munich, the Allo stuff came out on top so AFAIC, it's a safe bet to buy from Allo, especially as i completely agree lol.

    I'd like to get the Katana. It was subtle but enough of an improvement for me to want one.
    Thatís good information. As an old network engineer, I know Ethernet can be very noisy! Even for non-audio purposes. If a scope shows a lot of noise in the signal path, keeping all of your routers and hubs well grounded can make a difference. Or simply using a better router? Do you use the router supplied by your internet provider, or have you installed your own? It may be more than you want to spend, or fiddle with, depending on the size of the problem. And if the Allo solves your problem, best not to mess with it.

    Looking at some of my old hobby suppliers, I see I can get solid copper tubing easy enough. A project for the future, Iíll order the copper tubing, and replace the brass. And see just what difference I can hear. On the original ends of my speaker wires, which were WBT, some people love WBT, others do not, but they were the original ends. Their installation kit that these companies use, includes the little brass tubes, a crimping tool, (gold plated of course) and a gold plated Allen key. They donít use solder, crimp the tube onto the wire, and insert into the terminal, and tighten the screws down. So, crimping on red copper tubes, filling with solder, and then screwing the copper spades on, should be a superior connection?

    The terminals on the rear of my Krell are large, with a large mating surface, and you can really crank down on the three winged knobs! But, as you pointed out, a spade is the only thing that will fit. Iím sure there are better terminals out there! But I havenít gotten to the point of wanting to replace them just yet, they seem to work, plenty of current moving through them as they are.

    And your phono cable looks awesome! Nicely done!

    Russell

  6. #306
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: brighton uk.

    Posts: 4,169
    I'm jamie.

    Default

    if your crimping theres no need to solder if its done right.
    My System
    John Wood KT88 Amp.
    Paradise Phono Stage
    Sony TTS-8000 Turntable.
    PMAT-1010 MK6 Tonearm.
    Sony X555ES Cd Player
    Yamaha NS1000m Speakers
    KARMA Interconnects & Tonearm Cable

  7. #307
    Join Date: Apr 2015

    Location: Central Virginia

    Posts: 1,741
    I'm Russell.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by karma67 View Post
    if your crimping theres no need to solder if its done right.
    I know youíre right, these speaker wires have served me well for the past 8 years or so. They had no solder in the connections. But then again, I donít think the spade ends where I did use solder have hurt anything? overkill perhaps.

    Years ago, I had an Adcom 555, and from over tightening the terminals I wrung two off. So, I soldered the speaker wires directly to the amp! It worked like a charm, and I never had to touch them for over 10 years. A quick fix that worked out for the best.

    Russell

  8. #308
    Join Date: Nov 2015

    Location: Wolverhampton

    Posts: 9,049
    I'm Oliver.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by alphaGT View Post
    Thatís good information. As an old network engineer, I know Ethernet can be very noisy! Even for non-audio purposes. If a scope shows a lot of noise in the signal path, keeping all of your routers and hubs well grounded can make a difference. Or simply using a better router? Do you use the router supplied by your internet provider, or have you installed your own? It may be more than you want to spend, or fiddle with, depending on the size of the problem. And if the Allo solves your problem, best not to mess with it.

    Looking at some of my old hobby suppliers, I see I can get solid copper tubing easy enough. A project for the future, Iíll order the copper tubing, and replace the brass. And see just what difference I can hear. On the original ends of my speaker wires, which were WBT, some people love WBT, others do not, but they were the original ends. Their installation kit that these companies use, includes the little brass tubes, a crimping tool, (gold plated of course) and a gold plated Allen key. They donít use solder, crimp the tube onto the wire, and insert into the terminal, and tighten the screws down. So, crimping on red copper tubes, filling with solder, and then screwing the copper spades on, should be a superior connection?

    The terminals on the rear of my Krell are large, with a large mating surface, and you can really crank down on the three winged knobs! But, as you pointed out, a spade is the only thing that will fit. Iím sure there are better terminals out there! But I havenít gotten to the point of wanting to replace them just yet, they seem to work, plenty of current moving through them as they are.

    And your phono cable looks awesome! Nicely done!

    Russell
    Thanks matey. The phono cable is winging its way to its owner.

    I have the std router my provider sent me. I don't have any issues though with the Allo gear so I strongly suspect the problem lay with the unit itself which only my house will demonstrate lol. If there is even a hint of a problem anywhere else it always shows up here.
    Analogue: Technics SP10 MK2 > Phonomac AT-1010 MK6 tonearm > Ortofon Kontrapunkt b > Bigbottle Jfet MC Valve Phonostage (Telefunken Valves)
    Digital: Raspberry Pi 3+/Allo Boss 1.2/Isolator 1.3 & 2x LPSU's with Volumio & JRiver
    Amplification: Nelson Pass DCB1 with Khozmo 48 Step Series Attenuator & Krell KSA100 MK2 Amplifier
    Cables: SPOTFIRE Speaker Cable & SPOTFIRE IC Cables & SPOTFIRE Tonearm cable
    Speakers: Pioneer CS-77A

    Price List For SPOTFIRE Cables here:https://bit.ly/2Uxiv3j

    Alternative reading: http://www.audioaddictsforum.com

  9. #309
    Join Date: Nov 2015

    Location: Wolverhampton

    Posts: 9,049
    I'm Oliver.

    Default

    Today's thinking has got me convinced that when I build the new BigBottle phonostage pcb, I should fit it inside the DCB1. As I can't see myself ever migrating from this combo, barring a huge lottery win, I'm now certain that I have got those two bits spot on for my enjoyment.

    SO, do I strip down what I already own and reuse the bits or do I build a brand new setup? That's the next question is suppose.
    Analogue: Technics SP10 MK2 > Phonomac AT-1010 MK6 tonearm > Ortofon Kontrapunkt b > Bigbottle Jfet MC Valve Phonostage (Telefunken Valves)
    Digital: Raspberry Pi 3+/Allo Boss 1.2/Isolator 1.3 & 2x LPSU's with Volumio & JRiver
    Amplification: Nelson Pass DCB1 with Khozmo 48 Step Series Attenuator & Krell KSA100 MK2 Amplifier
    Cables: SPOTFIRE Speaker Cable & SPOTFIRE IC Cables & SPOTFIRE Tonearm cable
    Speakers: Pioneer CS-77A

    Price List For SPOTFIRE Cables here:https://bit.ly/2Uxiv3j

    Alternative reading: http://www.audioaddictsforum.com

  10. #310
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Staffordshire, UK

    Posts: 151
    I'm Rob.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigman80 View Post
    Today's thinking has got me convinced that when I build the new BigBottle phonostage pcb, I should fit it inside the DCB1. As I can't see myself ever migrating from this combo, barring a huge lottery win, I'm now certain that I have got those two bits spot on for my enjoyment.

    SO, do I strip down what I already own and reuse the bits or do I build a brand new setup? That's the next question is suppose.
    I thought you were thinking about having the valves on show for the new Phono Stage?
    I think anything valve based looks best with them on show. Just my opinion of course.
    Well Tempered Versalex, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Trilogy 906, MCRU LDA Linear PSU, Naim ND5 XS 2 , Exposure 3010S2D, Roksan TR-5 speakers, Spotfire Interconnects/Spotfire Reference speaker cable

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