+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 19 of 19

Thread: Can I create a volume controlled 'line out' in my integrated amp

  1. #11
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: West Sūžsēaxe

    Posts: 2,016
    I'm Edward.

    Default

    Chris, suggest you have a chat with the guys at Transcription Audio and ask them. Essentially you want a preout and I would imagine that you can, as you already suggested, tap into the line level after the volume control. Perhaps Transcription Audio can send you the schematic for your amp and also (as Alan mentions) take care about impedance matching etc.

    Or pop along to Transcription Audio and ask them to provide preouts to your amp. They seem to be only about 30 minutes away from you and I would imagine they can do it while you wait (assuming they don't have to implement an extra buffer stage).
    Current: [P20] Roon/Tidal > Custom PC> Chevron Paradox NDF16 > Phast Pre > Neuro. 686 > Tannoy Berkley (RFC tweaks)


  2. #12
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: London

    Posts: 685
    I'm James.

    Default

    It would be incredibly easy to make a volume controlled 'line level' output from the speaker terminals. You'd need to know the approx amp power output and speaker impedance, and create a board with two resistors in series with each other and in parallel with the speakers.
    So say output was 50W into 8 ohm speakers that is 20V across the terminals full output. To get this to approx. 2V a 10:1 resistive divider such as a 100 and 12 ohm respectively in series from positive to negative, take the output from negative and the junction of 12 ohm and 100 ohm. It gives you what you need, no need to get inside the amp, no loading on the amp, low output resistance for the line level electronics running the bass amp and all controlled by one volune knob. What's the issue?

    Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

  3. #13
    Join Date: Nov 2014

    Location: Leicestershire

    Posts: 317
    I'm Mark.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jazid View Post
    It would be incredibly easy to make a volume controlled 'line level' output from the speaker terminals. You'd need to know the approx amp power output and speaker impedance, and create a board with two resistors in series with each other and in parallel with the speakers.
    So say output was 50W into 8 ohm speakers that is 20V across the terminals full output. To get this to approx. 2V a 10:1 resistive divider such as a 100 and 12 ohm respectively in series from positive to negative, take the output from negative and the junction of 12 ohm and 100 ohm. It gives you what you need, no need to get inside the amp, no loading on the amp, low output resistance for the line level electronics running the bass amp and all controlled by one volune knob. What's the issue?

    Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk
    50 Watt resistors are BIG, and they get hot!

    Sent from my G8441 using Tapatalk

  4. #14
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: The Black Country

    Posts: 6,089
    I'm Alan.

    Default

    I'm really bothered about this thread, there is so much mis-information.

    Where do you get 20V from for 50W into 8 ohms> the output level at full is 28V peak, or 56V peak to peak.

    Also if you are driving a 100 ohm resistor you will get nowhere near 50W into it, more like 4W.


  5. #15
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: London

    Posts: 685
    I'm James.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Firebottle View Post
    I'm really bothered about this thread, there is so much mis-information.

    Where do you get 20V from for 50W into 8 ohms> the output level at full is 28V peak, or 56V peak to peak.

    Also if you are driving a 100 ohm resistor you will get nowhere near 50W into it, more like 4W.

    I got 20V from Ohms law.
    I cannot find a way to get any other result than 20V.
    Of course this is RMS which is what we are dealing with here since the OP is trying to get a 2V RMS output for a separate woofer amp.
    20/8=2.5 amps
    2.5Amps x 20V = 50W. Seems simple enough to me.
    28V peak or 56V P2P is of course about the same figure as 20V RMS but massively less useful to the conversation. So what exactly are you trying to prove Alan?
    20V across 112 ohms is just shy of 4W, these are not expensive resistors, currently a socking 52p (plus VAT) from CPC for 7W versions and less for the 12 ohm one. These resistors won't even get warm unless you are trying to fry your loudspeakers with some weird square waves or summat.

  6. #16
    Join Date: Jun 2015

    Location: London/Durham

    Posts: 6,881
    I'm Lawrence.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jazid View Post
    I got 20V from Ohms law.
    I cannot find a way to get any other result than 20V.
    Of course this is RMS which is what we are dealing with here since the OP is trying to get a 2V RMS output for a separate woofer amp.
    20/8=2.5 amps
    2.5Amps x 20V = 50W. Seems simple enough to me.
    28V peak or 56V P2P is of course about the same figure as 20V RMS but massively less useful to the conversation. So what exactly are you trying to prove Alan?
    20V across 112 ohms is just shy of 4W, these are not expensive resistors, currently a socking 52p (plus VAT) from CPC for 7W versions and less for the 12 ohm one. These resistors won't even get warm unless you are trying to fry your loudspeakers with some weird square waves or summat.
    I think it's 2v peak rather than RMS.

    I misunderstood the thread earlier hadn't realised we were taking a signal off the speaker outs in parallel with speakers, I guess it's ok if the voltages are kept below 2v.

    Sent from my BLN-L21 using Tapatalk

  7. #17
    Join Date: Dec 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

    Posts: 104
    I'm Dan.

    Default

    I agree with Firebottle, there is some bad info here.
    It would be a fairly simple modification to disconnect one input, tap off of the volume control and wire that disconnected input as an output. The subwoofer has a high input impedance, will run just fine running directly off of the volume control.
    You're probably looking at a £50 modification.
    Forget trying to run off of a padded down speaker connection. You'll waste power as heat, and add distortion. And it will probably cost just as much or more.

  8. #18
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: London

    Posts: 685
    I'm James.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Blackdog View Post
    I agree with Firebottle, there is some bad info here.
    It would be a fairly simple modification to disconnect one input, tap off of the volume control and wire that disconnected input as an output. The subwoofer has a high input impedance, will run just fine running directly off of the volume control.
    You're probably looking at a £50 modification.
    Forget trying to run off of a padded down speaker connection. You'll waste power as heat, and add distortion. And it will probably cost just as much or more.
    Yours is probably the worst information in this thread. What you suggest might be a simple mod in some amps but the OP has already said he is risk averse and not keen to dig inside his amp.
    Subwoofers usually have a 10k input impedance. This is low and will mess up pretty much any part of the circuit around a volume pot and likely introduce significant distortion unless a buffer is added as well. That is also simple in theory but what are the power supplies like, how much space is inside, and so on.
    Regarding padding down the output with a couple of resistors please explain how you believe this will add significant distortion? Thermal losses are near irrelevant here.

    Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

  9. #19
    Join Date: Apr 2016

    Location: Gravesend and France

    Posts: 1,498
    I'm paul.

    Default

    I'm certainly no expert but I managed to wire a pair of rca sockets after the volume control on my 300B for a subwoofer. It was point to point wired so very easy. As you haven't said what amp it is I would suggest you let someone that knows look at it first.
    Bakoon 13r Denon DP80 Stax UA-70 Shure Ultra 500 in a Martin Bastin body with jico stylus, project ds2 digital Rullit aero 8 field coils in tqwt speakers

    Office system, DIY CSS fullrange speakers with aurum cantus G2 ribbons yulong dac Sony STR6055 receiver Jvc QL-A51 direct drive turntable, Leema sub. JVC Z4S cart is in the house

    Garage system another Sony receiver, cassette deck


    System components are subject to change without warning and at the discretion of the owner.

+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •