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Thread: Magna Audio's custom-made counterweight balance and armboard service!

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  1. #1
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 94,733
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Arrow Magna Audio's custom-made counterweight balance and armboard service!

    Guys,

    Anyone looking for a custom-made brass C/W, perhaps for balancing out a heavy headshell being used with a DL-103, or maybe just making an existing arm look sexier - whatever the reason, Steve can help

    Here are the details (taken from this thread in The Drawing Board: http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...188#post119188)

    Quote Originally Posted by speedy.steve View Post
    I have most usual sizes of hole cutters and could build a database of them.
    If there are odd sizes I can machine out larger ones if a short length but it better to drill or holecut.
    These would have a simple grubscrew and slide on unless there's a spiral carrier that lets you slide a different weight on like the Acos PL-71 arm does...

    So if you want a weight let me know :
    - diameter size inner
    - diameter size outer
    - what mass.

    I can then work out how much needed. Perhaps there is a cheat sheet on the web for this. I only really want to use brass as it's nice to machine - forget titanium. Gold at your expense and I would keep the filings and off cut

    I will see what bar stock I have or have to order more.

    I tend to just finish with fine emery cloth as lifes too short for mirror finishing polishing and unless you lacquer they tarnish. The satin finish you see in the pics lasts for at least months like that.
    Lacquering would be possible too

    Could certainly do normal sizes for 25 + postage.
    PM Steve if interested (email details to follow)

    Marco.
    I always feel sad for those who are (or have been) less fortunate than me in life and love.

  2. #2
    Join Date: Jan 2008

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    Interesting!

    I am in need of a heavy counterweight for my Technics 1210 to counterbalance my very heavy re-bodied Denon 103.

    But ... I don't have the means to weigh the thing accurately - all I know is that it takes four 2p pieces blu-tacked together and on to the end of the standard Techie c/w to make it balance!

    Any ideas how I can specify and quantify my requirements so Steve knows what to make?
    .

  3. #3
    Join Date: Nov 2008

    Location: Valley of the Hazels

    Posts: 9,010
    I'm AMusicFanNotAnAudiophile.

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    Get one of these http://direct.asda.com/Salter-Disc-K...efault,pd.html and you'll at least know how heavy the counterweight needs to be.
    Chris



    Common sense isn't anymore!

  4. #4
    Join Date: Mar 2009

    Location: The New Forest

    Posts: 1,395
    I'm Steve.

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    Marco created this thread following my making him an ebony armboard for his superb SL-1210 deck.
    There's a whole thread on that.

    This thread is for counterweights and armboards and other things I hand craft.

    Here is a little taster of the following pages of the products I make.




































































    You can see more on my website (see link at the bottom).


    Quote Originally Posted by jandl100 View Post
    Interesting!

    I am in need of a heavy counterweight for my Technics 1210 to counterbalance my very heavy re-bodied Denon 103.

    But ... I don't have the means to weigh the thing accurately - all I know is that it takes four 2p pieces blu-tacked together and on to the end of the standard Techie c/w to make it balance!

    Any ideas how I can specify and quantify my requirements so Steve knows what to make?
    No probs. If you weigh the lot and let me know.
    I had a Techie here until recently but sold it due to SP-10.
    I'll need to find out the arm tube dia at the back. Perhaps a Techie owner can measure with a vernier caliper?

    Are you ok with loosing the spiral spin heavy / lighter action?

    Normally I would just drill out to the right dia and use a grub screw to secure - bit more difficult to weigh in as you have to just slide the weight with light grip on from the grubscrew and when right tighten suitably tight.
    This is how a Rega or Schick 12" is done
    Prob improves rigidity to the arm...
    Last edited by Magna Audio; 28-10-2017 at 08:58.
    System: Turntable : SP10 MKII slate plinth, Custom Ebony tonearm board, Arm : Fidelity Research FR64s, Cartridge : SPU Royal N. SUT : Lundahl 1:13. Phonostage : Icon Audio, Streaming RPi/Kali reclocker -> I2S -> DSP XO / Pre / 4 DAC's : WAF Najda, 5 Poweramps : 3 x EL84 SET's, 2 x D class amps on bass channels, Speakers : 5 way front loaded horn system: 2 X Tapped sub 15" LF drivers / 2 X Exponential mid bass 15" drivers / Tractrix 200Hz mid horns with JBL2482's, / Tractrix 550Hz upper wooden horns with factory refurb'd Vitavox S2's / Raal Lazy Ribbons as high frequency tweeters. Wires: good silver or good copper where best suited. DIY RCM.

    Maker of tonearm boards, armpods, Tannoy GRF style speaker cabinets, horn speakers, counterweights and more.
    For more information about my creations and products please click below

    http://fosworld.wixsite.com/magna-audio & on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/magna_audio/

  5. #5
    Join Date: Jan 2008

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    Quote Originally Posted by speedy.steve View Post
    No probs. If you weigh the lot and let me know. ...........
    Thanks Steve for the reply & also the PMs about the LP clamp ...

    & thanks to Hamish - it looks like my ideal counterweight would be 28.5 + 99.66 + a bit for the blu-tac! Call it 130g or a bit less.

    A grub screw to secure is fine.

    I'll need to find out the arm tube dia at the back. Perhaps a Techie owner can measure with a vernier caliper?
    Can anyone help with this?

    Hey - this is exciting, isn't it!
    .

  6. #6
    Join Date: Feb 2010

    Location: Salerno, ITALY

    Posts: 122
    I'm Giovanni.

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    15.85 mm

    in imperial should be: 0.5 in + 6/128 (but not sure how to read this on caliper)
    Giovanni.

  7. #7
    Join Date: Jan 2008

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    Quote Originally Posted by jandl100 View Post
    I'll need to find out the arm tube dia at the back. Perhaps a Techie owner can measure with a vernier caliper?
    Can anyone help with this?
    Quote Originally Posted by Gdg View Post
    15.85 mm

    in imperial should be: 0.5 in + 6/128 (but not sure how to read this on caliper)
    Many thanks, Giovanni!

    Does that sound OK, Steve?
    .

  8. #8
    Join Date: Jan 2008

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    Thanks for that, Chris - a visit to Asda may be in my near future.
    .

  9. #9
    Join Date: Nov 2008

    Location: Valley of the Hazels

    Posts: 9,010
    I'm AMusicFanNotAnAudiophile.

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    You're welcome Jerry.
    When you say balanced, do you mean at equilibrium, or do you mean with VTF applied ?
    If at equilibrium, is the counterweight at the end of its' rearward travel ? - you may be able to factor in some additional mass to the counterweight to enable you to move the counterweight nearer to the pivot point and thus lower the interia of the arm assembly and also lower the effective mass slightly.
    In my experience the closer that weight is to the pivot point the better the situation is.
    Chris



    Common sense isn't anymore!

  10. #10
    Join Date: Jan 2008

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stratmangler View Post
    You're welcome Jerry.
    When you say balanced, do you mean at equilibrium, or do you mean with VTF applied ?
    Yup, with vtf applied.
    .

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