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Thread: Garrard 401 not working

  1. #21
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Coventry

    Posts: 130
    I'm Mick.

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    Note that the motor is mounted on springs and will make a noise against the eddy brake if the deck is not level.
    Does the motor spin when switched on ?

    Ps wont the motor spin even if the suppressor is open circuit?
    You would just get a noise (Spike) at switch on / off

  2. #22
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 9,302
    I'm Andrew.

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    Quote Originally Posted by REXTON View Post
    Ok, if your hearing a metallic sound, it could be the eddy current break which is catching. This needs to be specifically setup with a very limited tolerance, could be the break is catching.
    youd need a set of clearance gauges, it's a very similar procedure to calibrating the distance with spark plugs in a car engine.
    SS
    CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

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  3. #23
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 9,302
    I'm Andrew.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mixc View Post
    Note that the motor is mounted on springs and will make a noise against the eddy brake if the deck is not level.
    Does the motor spin when switched on ?

    Ps wont the motor spin even if the suppressor is open circuit?
    You would just get a noise (Spike) at switch on / off
    very good points that's why I said earlier to check the supressor.
    SS
    CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

    VALVE
    PRE
    Croft Epoch(Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (Modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Ref XO + Batpure supertweeters DECK Garrard 301 Mat Teunto Bearings 401(Bastin) Plinth Bamboo Arms 3009/3012 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister II/FGS + Ortofon SPU MONO CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ SpeakerPC Tripple C+WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostages Paradise(4 Box Mega-Modded) / Croft Musicmaker



  4. #24
    Join Date: Oct 2011

    Location: Glasgow/Italy

    Posts: 866
    I'm Drew.

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    Thanks for all the replies. I've spoken to Ray and apparently it is a common situation that happens during transport. Basically the disk slips down to touch the motor housing and consequently cannot spin. As such I've had to unscrew the disk clamp and raise it a couple of mms to free it. Thereafter, I've raised the magnet sitting above. A fine and delicate balancing act between the 2. Up and running thankfully..Now I just have to sort out the speed as moving the magnet has thrown it out of kilter
    Last edited by da2222; 13-01-2019 at 12:49.

  5. #25
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Coventry

    Posts: 130
    I'm Mick.

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    FYI to get the speed correct on my 301 i have a 240 volt light bulb in series with the motor.
    Its a 40 or a 60 watt, cant remember which one.
    My deck used to run fast till i fitted it now its perfect on 33 and i need to slow it down a touch for 45s.

  6. #26
    Join Date: Nov 2014

    Location: Birmingham

    Posts: 140
    I'm Michael.

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    I take it the motor was clamped when in transit, them when you set the tt up you released the red headed motor transit screws?

  7. #27
    Join Date: Jun 2010

    Location: Devon

    Posts: 346
    I'm Matt.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mbic View Post
    I take it the motor was clamped when in transit, them when you set the tt up you released the red headed motor transit screws?
    My first thought also - Release the transit clamp all the way down to the e-clips on each side. This is a simple job. Remove the platter, observe from above the two red flat headed screws either side of the motor in the 9 and 3 o'clock positions. loosen these all the way down.

    Should there still be a scraping / metallic ringing, adjust the height of the magnet (It may be the speed disk as budged either pushed down scraping the motor casing or less likely upwards fouling the magnet.)
    Beware the lollipop of mediocrity; lick it once and you'll suck forever.
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