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Thread: Pre/Power Amp Issues

  1. #1
    Join Date: Sep 2015

    Location: north London

    Posts: 145
    I'm John.

    Default Pre/Power Amp Issues

    I've have an old Rotel RA-01 integrated amp brought back to life and noticed it had a pre-amp out facility so I coupled it to my Roksan K2 integrated, using this as the power amp. I'm really pleased with the results. The sound quality seemed to move up a gear or two - louder, more responsive, more clarity and generally more umph. I have been discouraged from going down the pre/power route in the past by my local dealer, but I'm so impressed with the improvement I would like to understand what's actually happening sound wise. Am I listening to the Roksan power section only, with the Rotel providing the input and controls etc, or is the sound produced by a combination of the two amps? It would appear to be the later. The Roksan delivers 120w a channel, so more than adequately drives my speakers, but together they push the power way beyond my speakers capabilities. I therefore seem to be driving them with more control to good effect.

    I can't imagine going back to an integrated amp now and I'm looking ahead to replacing the Rotel with a more modern and versatile pre-amp, i.e. one with digital inputs. Advice and guidance on whether people think I'm going in the right direction and are there any potential pitfalls I should be aware of, for instance, have I got lucky with my pairing and would some combinations not work so well. Eager for your thoughts.
    Linn Axis tt/Akito arm/Nagaoka MP200 or ATVM95/ML carts/Trichord Dino mk3 phono stage/dedicated PSU
    Marantz CD6006/Cambridge 650T DAB
    Tisbury Mini Passive II pre/Roksan K3 Dac/Roksan K2 integrated used as power amp
    Atlas Element Integra Superior inter-connects
    Spendor SP1s(1988)/Van-Damme UP-LCOFC HiFi 4mm cable

  2. #2
    Join Date: Feb 2013

    Location: W Lothian

    Posts: 99,005
    I'm Grant.

    Default

    Hey if it's sounding great why change. I you might not get the same synergy again. I at a guess the pre output may well be higher than the rocsans own pre
    Regards,
    Grant .... ؠ ......Don't be such a big girl's blouse

    I've said it before and I'll say it again: democracy simply-doesn't-work
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    “Nothing discloses real character like the use of power. It is easy for the weak to be gentle. Most people can bear adversity. But if you wish to know what a man really is, give him power. This is the supreme test. It is the glory of Lincoln that, having almost absolute power, he never abused it, except on the side of mercy".

    “You see these dictators on their pedestals, surrounded by the bayonets of their soldiers and the truncheons of their police ... yet in their hearts there is unspoken fear. They are afraid of words and thoughts: words spoken abroad, thoughts stirring at home -- all the more powerful because forbidden -- terrify them. A little mouse of thought appears in the room, and even the mightiest potentates are thrown into panic.”

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  3. #3
    Join Date: Sep 2013

    Location: North Island New Zealand

    Posts: 1,757
    I'm Chris.

    Default

    Hi John
    Similarly I am a firm believer in the separate pre /power amp approach. Like you I tried a old Rotel RA611 by stripping almost everything out of it
    other than its transformer - I then built it up as a dedicated preamp. It was far better than other combinations... but that was over 12 years ago.

    Since then I have dedicated most of my time to attenuation as a serious subject using Light Dependent Resistors. Marco has one of these builds,
    awaiting a review.

    If you can suggest you try a passive preamp - the reasons are that there is much higher chance of your source component providing what it can
    rather than its Left and Right signal enroute to your power amp being changed by other electronics disguised as a preamp.

    Ldr's present a exciting form of passive as they remove the mechanical wiping or switching of audio signals seen with switched attenuators
    and potentiometer based passive volume controls.

  4. #4
    Join Date: May 2010

    Location: Worcestershire, UK

    Posts: 1,101
    I'm Rob.

    Default

    For me, the pre/power vs integrated is all about budget. That is a good integrated is better than a poor pre/power and on a tight budget it is easier to find a good integrated than a pre/power combo that would better it.

    Of course the next question is what constitutes a tight budget. Personally, if buying new, I'd suggest less the £1000 as a finger in the air estimate. That is, if you have an £800 budget and want to buy new, you're likely to find what you want by going the integrated route. With some of the latest American kit (Schiit and Emotiva for example) that ceiling drops a little.

    Second hand things get a little more interesting. I'd suggest it's roughly around £400.

    Of course there are exceptions (very good expensive integrated, and some second hand bargains if you're willing to search at the opposite end). Also if you hunt around a passive pre-amp can be picked up remarkably cheaply, but they don't suit everyone - or every power amp/sources. It really all depends how much effort you put into it.

    Another factor is whether you want to go down the valve route. Valve power amps bump the ceiling up significantly.

    And the opposite is that if you have a large budget, it's easier to find a good pre/power combo. Ultimately, pre/power is better - mainly I believe because they don't share the same power supply.

    Lastly pre-power can add more flexibility - more inputs, a variety of inputs that match your sources (digitial, line level, and phono).
    Last edited by ReggieB; 02-01-2019 at 22:20.
    Rob.
    Powered by crossed fingers and clenched buttocks

  5. #5
    Join Date: Sep 2015

    Location: north London

    Posts: 145
    I'm John.

    Exclamation

    Thanks Guys. As usual, the 'can of worms' is bigger and more wriggly than I expected, which leads me to agree to some extent with Grant in that I love the sound I'm now getting - and I'm getting it on the cheap as the cleaned-up Rotel is about 20 years old and cost £250ish back then. But hi-fi perfection is a merciless and ever restless mistress!! Also, I would like to add digital inputs to a pre-amp as my 8 year old Arcam rDac has recently packed up and Arcam are suggesting it's not worth fixing. So I've lost the ability to play my cd player and dab tuner through an external dac. They sound ok directly fed into the Rotel, but better through the rDac - and it would free up the RCA inputs of which I'm currently using all 5.

    In response to Rob; I'm happier using the Roksan as a power amp rather than as an integrated. I found the volume control tricky and unresponsive til it got to about 12.30 on the dial, but in power mode it's the beast I wanted it to be! I'm thinking a £300 or £400 hundred region spend on a new or second hand pre if I could find one with a minimum of 5 RCA inputs, 1 Co-axial and 1 Optical. Since reading your replies I've had a quick look online and found prices from 20 to 3,500 quid! Then, reading Chris's response, the LDR issue is yet another temptation. The technical stuff is way beyond me Chris, and I therefore discount anything involving DIY. None of the for-sale pre-amps I looked at had digital inputs, or mentioned LDRs, so any suggestions of LDR pre-amps with RCA and digital inputs around that price range?
    Thanks again.
    John
    Linn Axis tt/Akito arm/Nagaoka MP200 or ATVM95/ML carts/Trichord Dino mk3 phono stage/dedicated PSU
    Marantz CD6006/Cambridge 650T DAB
    Tisbury Mini Passive II pre/Roksan K3 Dac/Roksan K2 integrated used as power amp
    Atlas Element Integra Superior inter-connects
    Spendor SP1s(1988)/Van-Damme UP-LCOFC HiFi 4mm cable

  6. #6
    Join Date: May 2016

    Location: Much Wenlock

    Posts: 1,523
    I'm Gary.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnNB View Post
    Thanks Guys. As usual, the 'can of worms' is bigger and more wriggly than I expected, which leads me to agree to some extent with Grant in that I love the sound I'm now getting - and I'm getting it on the cheap as the cleaned-up Rotel is about 20 years old and cost £250ish back then. But hi-fi perfection is a merciless and ever restless mistress!! Also, I would like to add digital inputs to a pre-amp as my 8 year old Arcam rDac has recently packed up and Arcam are suggesting it's not worth fixing. So I've lost the ability to play my cd player and dab tuner through an external dac. They sound ok directly fed into the Rotel, but better through the rDac - and it would free up the RCA inputs of which I'm currently using all 5.

    In response to Rob; I'm happier using the Roksan as a power amp rather than as an integrated. I found the volume control tricky and unresponsive til it got to about 12.30 on the dial, but in power mode it's the beast I wanted it to be! I'm thinking a £300 or £400 hundred region spend on a new or second hand pre if I could find one with a minimum of 5 RCA inputs, 1 Co-axial and 1 Optical. Since reading your replies I've had a quick look online and found prices from 20 to 3,500 quid! Then, reading Chris's response, the LDR issue is yet another temptation. The technical stuff is way beyond me Chris, and I therefore discount anything involving DIY. None of the for-sale pre-amps I looked at had digital inputs, or mentioned LDRs, so any suggestions of LDR pre-amps with RCA and digital inputs around that price range?
    Thanks again.
    John
    If you are running the pre out of the Rotel into a line input on the Roksan you using both pre amps to feed the power amp section of the Roksan.

    This is not a pre amp/power amp situation.

    You are using the gain and characteristics of the Rotel feeding into the gain and characteristics of the Roksan, hence your increase in volume.

    Gary
    It is easier to seek forgiveness than to ask permission

    Rules are meant for the obedience of fools and the guidance of wise men

  7. #7
    Join Date: Sep 2015

    Location: north London

    Posts: 145
    I'm John.

    Default

    Thanks Gary. I'm not running the Rotel through a line input on the Roksan. I spoke to someone at Roksan before I linked it to the Rotel and they advised that I can use the K2 as a power amo by connecting it to the bypass input on the K2, thereby bypassing the pre-amp function of the Roksan.
    Linn Axis tt/Akito arm/Nagaoka MP200 or ATVM95/ML carts/Trichord Dino mk3 phono stage/dedicated PSU
    Marantz CD6006/Cambridge 650T DAB
    Tisbury Mini Passive II pre/Roksan K3 Dac/Roksan K2 integrated used as power amp
    Atlas Element Integra Superior inter-connects
    Spendor SP1s(1988)/Van-Damme UP-LCOFC HiFi 4mm cable

  8. #8
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: London

    Posts: 685
    I'm James.

    Default

    New cheap DACs have come on in leaps and bounds, a fine converter can be had for £100 or so.

    Re. Preamps my advice is the same as Struth's: if it ain't broke don't fix it. I know that temptation to buy very well, but also know that three or four hundred quid can be spent easily without any obvious upgrade, and the risk is all the greater since you have lucked out on the synergy front already.

    For the money you could add/upgrade a streamer or NAS, or buy a new DAC and keep the change?

    Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

  9. #9
    Join Date: May 2016

    Location: Much Wenlock

    Posts: 1,523
    I'm Gary.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnNB View Post
    Thanks Gary. I'm not running the Rotel through a line input on the Roksan. I spoke to someone at Roksan before I linked it to the Rotel and they advised that I can use the K2 as a power amo by connecting it to the bypass input on the K2, thereby bypassing the pre-amp function of the Roksan.
    Cool, always happy to be wrong

    Gary
    It is easier to seek forgiveness than to ask permission

    Rules are meant for the obedience of fools and the guidance of wise men

  10. #10
    Join Date: May 2010

    Location: Worcestershire, UK

    Posts: 1,101
    I'm Rob.

    Default

    Yes, I agree with James, I'd spend the money on a DAC.
    Rob.
    Powered by crossed fingers and clenched buttocks

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