Anyone heard of series crossovers?

[walpurgis]

How does it work without a capacitor? Why does the tweeter not blow?

L1 will be draining some LF away from the tweeter.

[Macca]

L1 will be draining some LF away from the tweeter.

But L1 is an inductor. Clearly I'm missing something but I don't know what.

[Firebottle]

The impedance drops as the frequency drops, so L1 shunts the lf away from the tweeter.

[Firebottle]

In other words the LF takes the path of least resistance, in this case through L1.

[Lawrence001]

Presumably the inductance of L1 is much lower than the tweeter at the dangerous frequencies and almost all the current flows through it.

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[Macca]

Thanks I get it now.

[Lawrence001]

Am I right in thinking if I put another resistor in parallel with the one in there now, it will reduce the output of the mid/bass driver? I'll see what value's in there now and buy a few cheap high power ones to play with, any suggestions, I think quite a bit of power might be dissipated there? I guess I can't increase the output of the tweeter easily.

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[walpurgis]

Am I right in thinking if I put another resistor in parallel with the one in there now, it will reduce the output of the mid/bass driver?

Yes, that is correct, but you may find yourself with a low system impedance.

[YNWaN]

To be honest, as you are clearly unhappy with the current results, I would just bin the crossover and use a traditional first order. To start with I would connect the bass driver directly, with no crossover components and use a single capacitor (2.2 to 4uF to experiment) in series with the + of the tweeter.

[Lawrence001]

I think the design is tuneable (if that's a word) so I'd rather pursue that avenue at first, especially as the components seem very nice. But if the issue (for my ears) lies in the inductors rather than the resistor then it does seem a big job.

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