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Thread: Christmas is coming and the DCB1's getting fat......

  1. #121
    Join Date: Nov 2015

    Location: Wolverhampton

    Posts: 8,147
    I'm Oliver.

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    Quote Originally Posted by keith1962 View Post
    Just about finished my project with the addition of some 2mm aluminium angle under the Fets and across the 4 rectifier. Bought some 30mmx30mmx12mm heat sinks that are self adhesive and stuck to the aluminium angle. Fets and rectifiers are hot still but no problem pressing fingers onto them hard and leaving them there. Might get a couple more and stick them to the other side of the vertical ones on the rectifiers just to make sure.
    I have 1.2R resistors and get about 852mA output from one side and 882mA from the other. Is it worth the effort to match them?
    KR
    Keith.


    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
    Well done! Looks good.

    I wouldn't bother, it's very difficult to get them exact.

    Just enjoy the fruits of your labour!
    Analogue: Technics SP10 MK2 > Phonomac AT-1010 MK6 tonearm > Ortofon Kontrapunkt b > Bigbottle Jfet MC Valve Phonostage (Telefunken Valves)
    Digital: Raspberry Pi 3+ With Allo Boss.
    Amplification: Nelson Pass DCB1 with Khozmo 48 Step Series Attenuator & Krell KSA100 MK2 Amplifier
    Cables: SPOTFIRE Speaker Cable & SPOTFIRE IC Cables & NEW SPOTFIRE Tonearm cable
    Speakers: Pioneer CS-77A

  2. #122
    Join Date: Jan 2014

    Location: london se6

    Posts: 499
    I'm AndyElectroNumpty.

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    Cool looks good. nice one. What are the brown caps in the middle ?

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

  3. #123
    Join Date: Sep 2012

    Location: Newcastle-upon-Tyne

    Posts: 58
    I'm Keith.

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    Quote Originally Posted by smangus View Post
    Cool looks good. nice one. What are the brown caps in the middle ?

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
    They are Jupiter Cu foil in paper and wax. The unit came with Mundorf Mcap Evos in place of the normal Wimas. I checked with Salas through DIYAudio and he confirmed the places for foo if you are that way inclined are these 2 caps and the 8 resistors near the output from the board (220R, 220K and 1M I think the values are?). Mine came with Shinkoh for 220R and Rikens for the other 4 so didn't bother changing them.
    The main purpose of the project was to turn the pcb through 90 degrees and put the selector and volume either side. When I got it the board ran lengthways in the case and the volume and selector were one above the other where the selector switch is still. I didn't like that arrangement especially on the front which didn't look right. Bought some 10mm aluminium plate from Metal Supermarket and made a new front panel and repositioned the knobs. I think it looks much better now.
    Will try and upload some pics of how it was originally.
    KR
    Keith.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
    Garrard 401, Groovemaster 2, Arche headshell, Miyajima Shilabe, Paradise Phono amp,
    Aqua La Voce dac
    Salas DCB1
    Najda active crossover and DSP.
    Crown XLi 1500 x 2 bridged, Neurochrome Mod 86 monos, Guy Sergeant Hiraga Le Monstre,
    DIY open baffle with 18" Fane Colossus XB, Beyma 12p80ND and Beyma TPL150H with BK XLS 400 sub.

  4. #124
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: The Black Country

    Posts: 4,733
    I'm Alan.

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    Looking good there Keith, I see you have gone for the Audio Dimension attenuator

    If you can keep your finger on all the heatsinks then no more cooling required.

  5. #125
    Join Date: Jan 2014

    Location: london se6

    Posts: 499
    I'm AndyElectroNumpty.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by keith1962 View Post
    They are Jupiter Cu foil in paper and wax. The unit came with Mundorf Mcap Evos in place of the normal Wimas. I checked with Salas through DIYAudio and he confirmed the places for foo if you are that way inclined are these 2 caps and the 8 resistors near the output from the board (220R, 220K and 1M I think the values are?). Mine came with Shinkoh for 220R and Rikens for the other 4 so didn't bother changing them.
    The main purpose of the project was to turn the pcb through 90 degrees and put the selector and volume either side. When I got it the board ran lengthways in the case and the volume and selector were one above the other where the selector switch is still. I didn't like that arrangement especially on the front which didn't look right. Bought some 10mm aluminium plate from Metal Supermarket and made a new front panel and repositioned the knobs. I think it looks much better now.
    Will try and upload some pics of how it was originally.
    KR
    Keith.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
    Thats interesting , thanks

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

  6. #126
    Join Date: May 2017

    Location: West Sussex, UK

    Posts: 635
    I'm Steve.

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    Hi Keith
    Nice build mate.
    I notice you've not fitted the 10 bias led, any particular reason ??

    Steve..
    Project 2experience sb dc, Cart: At33ptg
    Firebottle Mono Blocks
    Nelson Pass Dcb1 turbo Dual Mono @ 1.2A. Khozmo 50k series attenuator.
    CD Player: Cyrus cd8se
    Spendor S6e
    Spotfire rca throughout - xt40 speaker cable.

    Steve...

  7. #127
    Join Date: Sep 2012

    Location: Newcastle-upon-Tyne

    Posts: 58
    I'm Keith.

    Default

    Steve,
    Whoever did the original build put most of the leds underneath the board for some reason, I just haven't bothered to move them. Similarly with the Riken and Shinkoh resistors which are not very tidy but never got round to sorting them out and you can't see them with the lid on anyway.
    KR
    Keith.
    Garrard 401, Groovemaster 2, Arche headshell, Miyajima Shilabe, Paradise Phono amp,
    Aqua La Voce dac
    Salas DCB1
    Najda active crossover and DSP.
    Crown XLi 1500 x 2 bridged, Neurochrome Mod 86 monos, Guy Sergeant Hiraga Le Monstre,
    DIY open baffle with 18" Fane Colossus XB, Beyma 12p80ND and Beyma TPL150H with BK XLS 400 sub.

  8. #128
    Join Date: May 2017

    Location: West Sussex, UK

    Posts: 635
    I'm Steve.

    Default

    Hi Keith
    Thanks for the explanation.
    Looks don't reallt matter, you'll have the lid on anyway.
    As long as it sounds good
    Project 2experience sb dc, Cart: At33ptg
    Firebottle Mono Blocks
    Nelson Pass Dcb1 turbo Dual Mono @ 1.2A. Khozmo 50k series attenuator.
    CD Player: Cyrus cd8se
    Spendor S6e
    Spotfire rca throughout - xt40 speaker cable.

    Steve...

  9. #129
    Join Date: Jan 2014

    Location: london se6

    Posts: 499
    I'm AndyElectroNumpty.

    Default

    Ok here's a question to ponder while the case wends it's way to me from the PRC. I listen to my headphones through my NJC headphone amp a lot , how do I add another pair of output sockets to the pre to plug that into separately? Is it as simple as running an extra lead from the out of the board to another set of RCAs? Can't believe it will be that easy but I live in hope

  10. #130
    Join Date: Nov 2015

    Location: Wolverhampton

    Posts: 8,147
    I'm Oliver.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by smangus View Post
    Ok here's a question to ponder while the case wends it's way to me from the PRC. I listen to my headphones through my NJC headphone amp a lot , how do I add another pair of output sockets to the pre to plug that into separately? Is it as simple as running an extra lead from the out of the board to another set of RCAs? Can't believe it will be that easy but I live in hope
    Just wire another set of RCA sockets from the RCA outputs. Directly. Simple.
    Analogue: Technics SP10 MK2 > Phonomac AT-1010 MK6 tonearm > Ortofon Kontrapunkt b > Bigbottle Jfet MC Valve Phonostage (Telefunken Valves)
    Digital: Raspberry Pi 3+ With Allo Boss.
    Amplification: Nelson Pass DCB1 with Khozmo 48 Step Series Attenuator & Krell KSA100 MK2 Amplifier
    Cables: SPOTFIRE Speaker Cable & SPOTFIRE IC Cables & NEW SPOTFIRE Tonearm cable
    Speakers: Pioneer CS-77A

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