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Thread: WTD: Xiang Sheng DAC 01A , fitted with a WE valve

  1. #81
    Join Date: Jun 2015

    Location: London/Durham

    Posts: 6,878
    I'm Lawrence.

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    To be fair, a number of people have commented on some variability in the sound of these.

  2. #82
    Join Date: Aug 2017

    Location: Liverpool, Merseyside, England

    Posts: 150
    I'm Rob.

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    Hello Jerry,

    I'll send the dac back to you tomorrow.

    When it arrives I would test the dac with both coax and toslink again, there's an outside chance it might be an incompatibility issue with my soundcard?

    Many thanks for the loan,
    Rob

  3. #83
    Join Date: Sep 2016

    Location: Surrey Hills

    Posts: 29
    I'm Lewis.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jandl100 View Post
    What glare?
    Well my only direct comparison is with using my Musical Fidelity
    A3.2. There’s a bigger soundstage with the XS and a bit more ‘lively’
    but also lacks a little composure I think.

    Obviously there’s a few people upgrading the valve and I’m sure it must
    be for a good reason.
    I’ve heard the expression of glare associated with these and it seems to fit,
    not a glaringly bad but...
    WAD kel84, Musical Fidelity A3.2 CDP, XS DAC 01, Rega Ela mk1/ homebrew single drivers

    Sugden a21, Garrard 401 Decca ffss pro & H4e, Castle Howard S3

  4. #84
    Join Date: Sep 2016

    Location: Surrey Hills

    Posts: 29
    I'm Lewis.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fatmarley View Post
    I know a very cheap and easy way to remove the glare but it does involve a soldering iron.
    Yes, I’d be interested to know what this modification is please.
    WAD kel84, Musical Fidelity A3.2 CDP, XS DAC 01, Rega Ela mk1/ homebrew single drivers

    Sugden a21, Garrard 401 Decca ffss pro & H4e, Castle Howard S3

  5. #85
    Join Date: Feb 2013

    Location: W Lothian

    Posts: 99,005
    I'm Grant.

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    cant say ive noticed any glare on mine, although upgrading the valve from the stock one is a big plus. The pre amp mod needs 2 jumpers moved.(they are together at the back). some of the capacitors can also be changed(Alan Firebottle did this) but i am happy enough with mine tbh.
    Regards,
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  6. #86
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Bristol

    Posts: 6,843
    I'm Justin.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dulce Tones View Post
    Obviously there’s a few people upgrading the valve and I’m sure it must
    be for a good reason.
    Only to see what gains are to be had by replacing a cheap Chinese valve. Twas me that found the WE 396A in the first place for use in this DAC (at least amongst people on this forum - I am not claiming greatness here).

    TBH I rate my Xiang Sheng as sonically better than my Musical Fidelity Tri-Vista SACD player (long gone now).

    I don't use it BTW it is just a spare. But it is a great spare DAC.

  7. #87
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: cheltenham

    Posts: 746
    I'm matt.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dulce Tones View Post
    Yes, I’d be interested to know what this modification is please.
    PM sent.

  8. #88
    Join Date: Feb 2016

    Location: London

    Posts: 882
    I'm Don.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dulce Tones View Post
    Yes, I’d be interested to know what this modification is please.
    Could you possibly share the mod?

    Sent from my ONE A2003 using Tapatalk

  9. #89
    Join Date: Aug 2012

    Location: South Beds, UK

    Posts: 1,950
    I'm Mike.

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    I've got one of the Firebottle modded ones, fitted with a Telefunken valve and rather splendid it is, too.
    Less bling, more integrity ©Spenagio

  10. #90
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: cheltenham

    Posts: 746
    I'm matt.

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    Quote Originally Posted by donmarrese View Post
    Could you possibly share the mod?

    Sent from my ONE A2003 using Tapatalk
    I should have said that my dac is the more expensive Xiang Sheng DA-03A so I guess there could be a difference in the sound. When I heard the word "Glare", I assumed it was the dacs fault because that's one word I would have used to describe mine.

    Regarding the mod - If you DON'T find the dac has a bit of glare or is a bit thin or bright with the opamp output then you may not like the result, but even then,
    you may find it actually gives a more meaty sound (bigger bass, better, more realistic midrange IMO). It doesn't make the sound soft, so don't worry about that. I'd actually argue that it makes it sound like a more expensive dac, and in my system it's a large improvement. I didn't like the valve output but can't remember if I
    tried an upgraded valve (knowing me, i'd be very surprised if I didn't)

    I also need to explain my background - In 2002 a number of us started playing with replacing components in the Naim preamp circuit over at pinkfishmedia (at a later stage we experimented with regulators and various circuit modifications). I learnt a lot from endlessly trying different components, but the main thing I learned was that there's a synergy between components/circuit mods and regulation. Get the matching wrong and the amp could sound anything from bright, dull, grey or if you were lucky it could sound very good. I must of spent thousands of pounds on components and years of my life on this hobby, it was an obsession that's now been replaced with loudspeaker design.

    If you take a standard Naim preamp and ONLY replace all the coupling caps with film caps, it will sound bad. If you take an Onix OA21 amp and replace the single
    coupling cap with film, it will also sound bad. This is also the same with the budget Cambridge Audio AM1 amp (Been there, done that). Lots of even very expensive hifi equipment use electrolytic coupling caps as standard, this has nothing to do with price and everything to do with sound quality and synergy IMO.
    If you ask on any diy hifi forum if it's a good idea to use electrolytics for coupling you will be told to avoid them like the plague and yet subjectively, electros often
    sound far better (depending on the ones chosen).

    There are better ways to upgrade the Xiang Sheng dac but it's expensive, complicated and you risk breaking it. My suggestion is very cheap (about £2) and only
    involves replacing two capacitors.

    Not all electolytics sound the same, i've tried Silmics (soft), Nichicon Muse KZ (similar to film, so can sound bright or great), BC128 (can also sound bright) plus loads of others but the most neutral sounding caps i've tried, in a system that film don't work are the Nichicon FW (standard for audio). For film caps i've tried everything from cheap polyester to very expensive Mundorf Silver/Gold/Oil.

    All you need to do is replace the 2.2uf film caps with Nichicon FW (standard for audio). They are inbetween the valve and transformer. looking from the front they are on the top left hand side. A pair of caps will cost about £2 delivered from ebay. If for some strange reason you don't like it, it's easily reversable.

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