Speaker cabs that match that beautiful finish will together qualify for art gallery standards.
Truly envious of the workmanship in this build.
Current: [P20] Roon/Tidal > Custom PC> Chevron Paradox NDF16 > Phast Pre > Neuro. 686 > Tannoy Berkley (RFC tweaks)
Thanks Brian, compliments always appreciated.
Wood skill? Let's just say I understand the process and have the required patience. To be honest, metal working and paint is my SOP.
The garage, here's a pic of my "attached garage from the outside https://i.postimg.cc/X7YnpxNd/DSC00552.jpg
I worked in a HP automotive machine shop out of high school, the Remline toolbox on left in shelve pics came from there, purchased highly used from them for $40 1971.
Couple Snap-On pieces in those 2 boxes but mostly of old Craftsman tools. Went on to much better paying jobs, but never lost the interest.
If you look closely, to the left of the toolboxes is the original 4.3L V6 for my 2001 S-10. The current unit under the hood is highly modified.
Good friend of mine owns a HP Machine shop, he gives me free reign there. 6 years ago I spent 3 weeks vacation time there machining and building a HP motor for the S10. Enjoyed every minute of it!
Yamaha YP800, Clearaudio - Performer V2 Ebony MM - Jolida JD9II Phono Preamplifier w/Level 1 Upg - Pioneer PLX-1000 - Audio Technica VM760SLC - Jolida JD9II Phono Preamplifier w/Level 1 Upg - Marantz 125 - Jolida Fusion DAC Transport w/Level 1 Upg - Jolida Fusion Preamplifier w/Level 1 Upg - Jolida Fusion 3502P Power Amplifier - Yamaha NS1000M - Dual SVS SB-2000
Thanks JohnJo, this is my first wood project in many years, last was the lawn shed in back yard 7 years ago. Borrowed use of neighbors table saw, received the advice below regarding use of Epifanes varnish and ran with it.
Epifanes is indeed the best spar varnish ever made. And expensive
A tip you already might know, I always cut Epifanes with mineral spirits and apply light coats with a lint free cloth, not a brush, slowly building layer upon layer. I start a 50/50 and work up to a 80/20, always with a light scuff between coats (i use '000' steal wool and '0000' for the last few coats). Yes, it takes a lot more time, usually 8 t0 11 coats to build a deep mirror finish, but it will be smooth and any little imperfections can be scuffed out and re-applied seamlessly.
I have no idea your skill level, but applying it 'uncut' requires great skill (and most likely an apprenticeship) to achieve a seamless smooth mirror surface Faster, yes, but brush strokes and dust imperfections are the bain of spar varnish.
I always used a fresh clean cloth for each application. I liked to use a cloth (scrap cotton shirt) about 15 by 15 inch and I would fold it in half to keep it manageable. Now for vertical surfaces, watch the drips. it's self leveling in horizontal, not vertical. I have experimented with a foam brush on vertical surfaces with great results, but hand rubbed was just easier.
Yamaha YP800, Clearaudio - Performer V2 Ebony MM - Jolida JD9II Phono Preamplifier w/Level 1 Upg - Pioneer PLX-1000 - Audio Technica VM760SLC - Jolida JD9II Phono Preamplifier w/Level 1 Upg - Marantz 125 - Jolida Fusion DAC Transport w/Level 1 Upg - Jolida Fusion Preamplifier w/Level 1 Upg - Jolida Fusion 3502P Power Amplifier - Yamaha NS1000M - Dual SVS SB-2000
Yamaha YP800, Clearaudio - Performer V2 Ebony MM - Jolida JD9II Phono Preamplifier w/Level 1 Upg - Pioneer PLX-1000 - Audio Technica VM760SLC - Jolida JD9II Phono Preamplifier w/Level 1 Upg - Marantz 125 - Jolida Fusion DAC Transport w/Level 1 Upg - Jolida Fusion Preamplifier w/Level 1 Upg - Jolida Fusion 3502P Power Amplifier - Yamaha NS1000M - Dual SVS SB-2000
Great work and skill - Impressive !
My System:
Amplification - Sansui AU-alpha 707 DR
Turntable - Technics SP10 MK2-Technics EPA-250 Tonearm-Yannis Tome 423.5Plus tonearm cable-Eichmann KLEI Absolute Harmony plugs.
Ortofon Cadenza Black moving coil cartridge-Fritz Gyger S re-tip. Panzerholz plinth.
CDP - Pioneer PD-91
Speakers - Spendor D7 on Soundcare SuperSpikes
QED Silver Spiral speaker cable-airloc banana plugs
Mains - Ultra Pure silver plated un-switched socket-Missing link EPS 500 silver plated plugs-Hi-Fi Tuning gold plated silver ceramic 13 amp fuses
Yamaha YP800, Clearaudio - Performer V2 Ebony MM - Jolida JD9II Phono Preamplifier w/Level 1 Upg - Pioneer PLX-1000 - Audio Technica VM760SLC - Jolida JD9II Phono Preamplifier w/Level 1 Upg - Marantz 125 - Jolida Fusion DAC Transport w/Level 1 Upg - Jolida Fusion Preamplifier w/Level 1 Upg - Jolida Fusion 3502P Power Amplifier - Yamaha NS1000M - Dual SVS SB-2000
A very recent suggestion from a person that did French Polishing is to "rub out" the final coat for an even flatter and shiner surface.
He advises using 1500 or 2000 wet/dry sandpaper to flatten final coat, then buff with a light compound.
I have a small auto buffer and fine compound, need to pick up the sandpaper and try this process out on the test piece.
Yamaha YP800, Clearaudio - Performer V2 Ebony MM - Jolida JD9II Phono Preamplifier w/Level 1 Upg - Pioneer PLX-1000 - Audio Technica VM760SLC - Jolida JD9II Phono Preamplifier w/Level 1 Upg - Marantz 125 - Jolida Fusion DAC Transport w/Level 1 Upg - Jolida Fusion Preamplifier w/Level 1 Upg - Jolida Fusion 3502P Power Amplifier - Yamaha NS1000M - Dual SVS SB-2000
that was me!
My System
John Wood KT88 Amp.
Paradise Phono Stage
Sony TTS-8000 Turntable.
PMAT-1010 MK6 Tonearm.
Ortofon Cadenza Bronze
Sony X555ES Cd Player
Yamaha NS1000m Speakers
Yamaha YP800, Clearaudio - Performer V2 Ebony MM - Jolida JD9II Phono Preamplifier w/Level 1 Upg - Pioneer PLX-1000 - Audio Technica VM760SLC - Jolida JD9II Phono Preamplifier w/Level 1 Upg - Marantz 125 - Jolida Fusion DAC Transport w/Level 1 Upg - Jolida Fusion Preamplifier w/Level 1 Upg - Jolida Fusion 3502P Power Amplifier - Yamaha NS1000M - Dual SVS SB-2000