Sony TTS-8000 Turntable

[karma67]

me neither,i was thinking a long the lines of dropping another thrust pad on top if needed,obviously dependant on how much it would raise the platter and if that would be an issue,your getting me paranoid about using my tenuto now

[DiveDeepDog]

The other Sony models share the same platter (6750/8750) There must've been valid reasons for using comparatively lightweight platter with powerful motor? The SP10 is a contemporary and felt much heavier (off to check TVK).
All I can say is put a brush on a record and there isn't a tt I've known that corrects for speed the moment the load changes. I've no way of measuring, but it feels more powerful than my 301 with the advantage of self measurement and maintaining speed.

I suppose the elephant in the room is the PS-x9, apparently built like a brick sh1t house.

* TVK quote 3kg for SP10 mk2 platter, my TTS is 1.58kg. I guess I need to weigh the sub-chassis too as thats part of the moving mass too?

[Bigman80]

The other Sony models share the same platter (6750/8750) There must've been valid reasons for using comparatively lightweight platter with powerful motor? The SP10 is a contemporary and felt much heavier (off to check TVK).
All I can say is put a brush on a record and there isn't a tt I've known that corrects for speed the moment the load changes. I've no way of measuring, but it feels more powerful than my 301 with the advantage of self measurement and maintaining speed.

I suppose the elephant in the room is the PS-x9, apparently built like a brick sh1t house.

* TVK quote 3kg for SP10 mk2 platter, my TTS is 1.58kg. I guess I need to weigh the sub-chassis too as thats part of the moving mass too?

The reason Sony made the same platter for the TTS8000, 6750 AND 8750, was so they could use one design on three TTs.

I will try and find the history but it could be on TVK.

As for TTs that adjust speed instantaneously with a brush, the SP10 MK2 does this. It's like you were never there.

Also stops and starts immediately and is up to the correct speed inside one revolution. Probably less TBH, Even with a 5kg Tenuto on it.

[Idlewithnodrive]

The reason Sony made the same platter for the TTS8000, 6750 AND 8750, was so they could use one design on three TTs.

I will try and find the history but it could be on TVK.

As for TTs that adjust speed instantaneously with a brush, the SP10 MK2 does this. It's like you were never there.

Also stops and starts immediately and is up to the correct speed inside one revolution. Probably less TBH, Even with a 5kg Tenuto on it.

I can confirm this. No discernible slowdown when using a record brush.

[JohnG]

I have unboxed a TTS 8000, and checked the spindle for Side to Side Play, I have detected, what I will refer to zs a excessive movement, one that I am not detecting in the other TT's I have.
I don't know anything about the bearings engineered design or how much side to side movement there should be in a unused bearing, so I will not pretend that I have any ideas for what engineered tolerances there should be.
As a result of receiving a few guidelines on how to remove a Bush from a encapsulated bearing housing, I sourced a tool that I feel can be used to carry out one of the methods in a controlled manner.
The method I intend on using will only be attempted after I have sought further advices, but as it seems at present to not put any parts at a real risk, if set up properly, I will learn as much on the operation and any unknown to me risks, that I can.
With the stimulation of a method to remove a Bush that I could comprehend, I was motivated to unpack the TTS 8000, and see how secure the spindle felt in the housing.
The amount of movement I have felt does not make me feel that the Spindle is seated as well as I feel it should be, it is not in keeping with the way I have come to understand the intentions of others, that I know that have worked on "improving" bearings.
With the concerns felt about the amount of side to side movement, and the audible noise that can be detected when checking for movement from the spindle hitting the side walls of the housing, I got brave and had a attempt at what Mark did, and successfully removed the Spindle from the housing, and similar to Marks discovery, my one was very dry. The spindle did not have a amount of lubricant that could leave a residual on my fingers.
I am not at rest with this as a find, and intend on making changes to this situation, I feel a correct lubrication, will be a preventative exercise.
I can see into the Housing Shaft and there is a low level Bush, seated down in the bottom, that does not touch the base, there is a non metallic liner sleeve that sits above the lowest bush, with what feels like a tiny gap between the two components. The non metallic sleeve liner is of a length that it sits directly under the bush seen at the top of the shaft, there feels like there is tiny space between the top of the non metallic liner and the bottom of the high level bush.
The internal diameter of the Bushes are slightly smaller than the internal diameter of the non metallic sleeve.
I am assuming the gaps created between the Bushes and Sleeve are to allow a Lubricant to travel as well as expand.
Rightly or wrongly, I intend to attempt to tighten up the tolerances between the spindle and bushes, by exchanging them. So I will pursue the investigation of the supplied method to remove the bushes, the sleeve will be removed temporarily as well.
On the bottom of the spindle there is a half round nipple machined as part of spindles production onto the bottom face of the spindle.
This acts a the low friction rotation point, it is not easy to make out, but there seems to be a abrasive wear in the bottom of the housing on the base, again due to the unpolished appearance of the wear, this looks like it could be having a unwanted effect on the operation.
Again rightly or wrongly, I will be looking into the idea I have of placing a 0.5mm POM thrust pad in the base of bearing housing as a preventative measure to protect the housing,as well as supply the nipple a much smoother surface to rotate on.
This is heading toward the type of conditions, I would like my vintage TT bearing to function under.
I will feel more at rest if I can achieve this.
The method to remove the bushes should be reversible, so it can be returned to the original parts, if all goes well.

[DiveDeepDog]

Re the platter, I find it interesting the different direction/solution Sony took, being fairly lightweight. In the world of Tt's heavier is usually considered better.

Until the other day (when I oiled the bearing) I thought SP10 had the edge. The Sony was accurate but flat and lacked something. Lubrication has made a big difference to the image and flow of music, it's a bugger how these little things make such a difference, I'll be auditioning cables next ...
I've a pair of Mission Mechanic's, I'll have to get Tim to make a collet for his SP10 for a bake-off


John, my bearing has no discernible movement, of course I didn't think about it before oiling, however on first dry removal it came out with a pop.

Anyone with a bottle SAE30 I could scrounge 10ml off? I've got some bottles, could swap for beer tokens or Ifotel.

[karma67]

yep,i have sae 30, i'll pm you with my address.

[Nonnegativ]

Neither of my TTS-8000 has any sideways movement of the platter/ bearing. Its actually quite an accurate fit.

John: Its a great project you are heading into - let us know how it progresses.

I personally wouldn't mind if we go Lenco on the TTS-8000 - thereby meaning that if improvements or new parts to the bearing can be made, it will only extend the lifespan of our TTS-8000's.

[JohnG]

Hi Carston
The subject on the TTS Bearing stimulates me, as I have said in the past, for certain types of individuals, the gathering of the required knowledge on how to keep a TT performing at its best, is as much a hobby as the playing the media on it.
With the recent reports from yourself and Mark on the tightness of your bearings seating in the housing, I am reassured that my thoughts on the subject are less erred.
I intend on thoroughly investigating the method I have been supplied to remove the Bushes from the Housing, and if all goes well, can report on a successful remedial to exchange the worn parts, that are assumed to be sacrificial in the housing.
The more I study the bearing, it seems to be of a similar design to the bearings discussed on the Lenco Heaven Site, the fact it has a encapsulated housing is the real difference, from a layman viewpoint.
I feel that my remedial will be based on the using of a method supplied on LH, the thrust pad will be investigated as well.

[hermit]

There's a spring loaded mechanism on the black plate, my guess its to keep dust out. It needs positioning while the motors turning otherwise it introduces noise.

Mark, would you mind expanding on this a little please as I'm particularly ham-fisted and it's making me wonder if I should tackle opening the bearing myself. Also what did you use to clean out the gunk?