Sony TTS-8000 Turntable

[karma67]

Here’s my 2 cents,and of course I’m not an expert in engineering but I think the correct oil viscosity is related to the tolerance between the spindle and the bronze bearing, too thick and there won’t be a sufficient film between the two as its forced out of the way when the spindle is inserted, too thin and it will flow down the spindle and sit on the bottom.
Sae 30 seems about right to me although I’ve got some sae 50 to try.

[Patrick Dixon]

I think it will flow to the bottom eventually anyway, which is why you need enough to fill up around the spindle.

[karma67]

i dont put that much in.

[hermit]

I'm currently using Clarke Compressor Oil ISO150 (SAE40) to good effect. I'm very thankful to the people on this thread for discovering that the bearing could be serviced and for the advice on how to proceed. I was always worried that the bearing on a 40 plus year old deck would fail eventually without intervention. Now that my bearing has been cleaned out and re-lubed I feel a whole lot better.

Edited to add that I also think the deck sounds better after the bearing service. Hard to put into words but I think it sounds more organic and flows better. Of course, it could just be confirmation bias or euphoria at completing the job without ruining my deck.

[AJSki2fly]

I'm currently using Clarke Compressor Oil ISO150 (SAE40) to good effect. I'm very thankful to the people on this thread for discovering that the bearing could be serviced and for the advice on how to proceed. I was always worried that the bearing on a 40 plus year old deck would fail eventually without intervention. Now that my bearing has been cleaned out and re-lubed I feel a whole lot better.

Edited to add that I also think the deck sounds better after the bearing service. Hard to put into words but I think it sounds more organic and flows better. Of course, it could just be confirmation bias or euphoria at completing the job without ruining my deck.

By some of this and add a few drops to your oil and your bearing will last many time longer and be very quiet( as long as it is not already worn out). This is used by many car race teams to reduce friction in engines and gain performance and life. I use it on my TT. Have a read up about it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Extralube...&ul_noapp=true

[karma67]

a small update,
i couldn't resist having a look on the underside of the bearing housing
it would appear that the spindle cast tube that the oilite bearing sit in is not blind,in the photo you can clearly see the other side of the white delrin thrust pad,its got some sealer/glue around its edge but id say looking at the slots it just screws in.
this does mean that it could be possible to safely press out and press in new oilite bearings

[Wakefield Turntables]

do it ! do it!

Neither of my TTS-8000 has any sideways movement of the platter/ bearing. Its actually quite an accurate fit.

John: Its a great project you are heading into - let us know how it progresses.

I personally wouldn't mind if we go Lenco on the TTS-8000 - thereby meaning that if improvements or new parts to the bearing can be made, it will only extend the lifespan of our TTS-8000's.

a small update,
i couldn't resist having a look on the underside of the bearing housing
it would appear that the spindle cast tube that the oilite bearing sit in is not blind,in the photo you can clearly see the other side of the white delrin thrust pad,its got some sealer/glue around its edge but id say looking at the slots it just screws in.
this does mean that it could be possible to safely press out and press in new oilite bearings

[karma67]

lol theres a lot at stake so very small steps

[JohnG]

Cheers for that one Jamie.
I see the exact same white part in Geoff from Bucharest images, and had no way off relating that part to being inserted in the base of the Bearing
Housing.
Another avenue to work with.
As the assumption of a blind hole, as suggested previously, now looks like there is a possiblity of a access into the housing from the underside.
I will be attempting this one in the future, as the removal of this plug, will be a good aide to any cleaning regime, if it allows for a thorough flushing of contaminants that are dislodged, as well as protect it from any damage due to coming into contact with a degreasing solvent.
Lots of questions for me now to work on ???.
If this Plastic Part has the dual purpose of a Thrust Pad and Lubricant Retaining Sump Plug, then any effort to carry out a degreaseing with a solvent, will have to be carefully thought through, as the part as seen by me, in two separate images today, has impressions in the material on both the Top and Bottom Surfaces, the amount of material that is present between these impressions where they may share the same footprint, is a unknown gauge, until this gauge is a known , a incorrect choice of Solvent, might just react with the material, and and as a result, compromise the function of the part, causing a premature failure, when the Bearing Housing is again operational.
The more that can be learnt about the material and the purpose of it when in its seat, seems quite important, this could ? be the reason already for the loss of all trace of oil as being reported.
Again a good spot on your behalf, and very useful too, I am already feeling very positive, and wondering how this Plastic Part can help with my intention for the servicing of the bearing.

[karma67]

so a bit more investigation.
removed the 3 larger screws around the bearing housing.



you can then lift the whole assembly out from the unit.



once out remove the 3 screws on the bottom of the housing to remove the cast aluminium bearing holder/tube.



there is a rubber washer between the 2 units.









the rubber washer sits in the dished out section on the housing.



here's the spindle in the bearing.



so i have a choice,do i remove the oilite bearings and put new ones in or just re oil the old ones?
im also open to other bearing options too.