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Thread: Sony TTS-8000 Turntable

  1. #431
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: brighton uk.

    Posts: 4,737
    I'm jamie.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hermit View Post
    Mark, would you mind expanding on this a little please as I'm particularly ham-fisted and it's making me wonder if I should tackle opening the bearing myself. Also what did you use to clean out the gunk?
    its very simple paul, first remove the platter,place your fingers in the 2 holes you see when you remove the mat and give a tug upwards,it should come off easy but it is a tapered fit so you might need a few tugs to remove.
    be very careful of the magnetic strip running around the platter,if you damage its buggered.

    next remove the 3 smaller screws that hold the spindle cover plate,under the cover is the sprung loaded plastic mechanism.pull up on the spindle to remove it.
    you now have access to the bearing well.
    to clean out the well i use brake cleaner and ipa,you can also use white spirit or wd40.
    once the well is cleaned do the spindle,now its time for fresh oil,i personally use sae30 air compressor oil,i smear the spindle all round and also put a dab on the machined ball at the bottom of the spindle.

    put everything back together and job done. a tip when you put the cover plate back on is to spin the spindle with you fingers whilst you tighten the 3 scews up,listen for any rubbing noise,if you get a large amount you should re center the cover plate,i also put a smear of oil around the plastic edge that touches the spindle.

    if you want to be really anal like me lol you can once you have cleaned out the bearing well fill the well right up to the top with fresh oil and leave over night,you will be surprised how dirty the oil is the next day.
    good luck!
    My System
    John Wood KT88 Amp.
    Paradise Phono Stage
    Sony TTS-8000 Turntable.
    PMAT-1010 MK6 Tonearm.
    Ortofon Cadenza Bronze
    Sony X555ES Cd Player
    Yamaha NS1000m Speakers

  2. #432
    Join Date: Sep 2012

    Location: Derbyshire

    Posts: 542
    I'm mark.

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    Couldn't haver said better myself Jamie.
    I'll add use non metallic, cotton bud or wood skewer wrapped in cloth to clean the bearing housing.
    When replacing the top plate, I put the 3 screws in loosely, then switched on. Moved the plate around till it was silent.

    I did wonder about soaking bearings, didn't know if the bottom was sealed sufficiently well (coming from familiar Garrard that leave a British Leyland drop of oil) but I'll try that one too.

  3. #433
    Join Date: Oct 2011

    Location: Glasgow

    Posts: 1,049
    I'm Paul.

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    Thanks a lot for spelling it out so clearly Jamie. It's greatly appreciated. It doesn't seem too daunting so I'll buy some SAE30 and give it a try.

  4. #434
    Join Date: Oct 2011

    Location: Glasgow

    Posts: 1,049
    I'm Paul.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DiveDeepDog View Post
    Couldn't haver said better myself Jamie.
    I'll add use non metallic, cotton bud or wood skewer wrapped in cloth to clean the bearing housing.
    When replacing the top plate, I put the 3 screws in loosely, then switched on. Moved the plate around till it was silent.

    I did wonder about soaking bearings, didn't know if the bottom was sealed sufficiently well (coming from familiar Garrard that leave a British Leyland drop of oil) but I'll try that one too.
    Thanks for the additional info Mark. When you say that you "put the 3 screws in loosely, then switched on" do you mean that you started the motor without the platter or just that you powered up the deck?

  5. #435
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: brighton uk.

    Posts: 4,737
    I'm jamie.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnG View Post
    I have unboxed a TTS 8000, and checked the spindle for Side to Side Play, I have detected, what I will refer to zs a excessive movement, one that I am not detecting in the other TT's I have.
    I don't know anything about the bearings engineered design or how much side to side movement there should be in a unused bearing, so I will not pretend that I have any ideas for what engineered tolerances there should be.
    As a result of receiving a few guidelines on how to remove a Bush from a encapsulated bearing housing, I sourced a tool that I feel can be used to carry out one of the methods in a controlled manner.
    The method I intend on using will only be attempted after I have sought further advices, but as it seems at present to not put any parts at a real risk, if set up properly, I will learn as much on the operation and any unknown to me risks, that I can.
    With the stimulation of a method to remove a Bush that I could comprehend, I was motivated to unpack the TTS 8000, and see how secure the spindle felt in the housing.
    The amount of movement I have felt does not make me feel that the Spindle is seated as well as I feel it should be, it is not in keeping with the way I have come to understand the intentions of others, that I know that have worked on "improving" bearings.
    With the concerns felt about the amount of side to side movement, and the audible noise that can be detected when checking for movement from the spindle hitting the side walls of the housing, I got brave and had a attempt at what Mark did, and successfully removed the Spindle from the housing, and similar to Marks discovery, my one was very dry. The spindle did not have a amount of lubricant that could leave a residual on my fingers.
    I am not at rest with this as a find, and intend on making changes to this situation, I feel a correct lubrication, will be a preventative exercise.
    I can see into the Housing Shaft and there is a low level Bush, seated down in the bottom, that does not touch the base, there is a non metallic liner sleeve that sits above the lowest bush, with what feels like a tiny gap between the two components. The non metallic sleeve liner is of a length that it sits directly under the bush seen at the top of the shaft, there feels like there is tiny space between the top of the non metallic liner and the bottom of the high level bush.
    The internal diameter of the Bushes are slightly smaller than the internal diameter of the non metallic sleeve.
    I am assuming the gaps created between the Bushes and Sleeve are to allow a Lubricant to travel as well as expand.
    Rightly or wrongly, I intend to attempt to tighten up the tolerances between the spindle and bushes, by exchanging them. So I will pursue the investigation of the supplied method to remove the bushes, the sleeve will be removed temporarily as well.
    On the bottom of the spindle there is a half round nipple machined as part of spindles production onto the bottom face of the spindle.
    This acts a the low friction rotation point, it is not easy to make out, but there seems to be a abrasive wear in the bottom of the housing on the base, again due to the unpolished appearance of the wear, this looks like it could be having a unwanted effect on the operation.
    Again rightly or wrongly, I will be looking into the idea I have of placing a 0.5mm POM thrust pad in the base of bearing housing as a preventative measure to protect the housing,as well as supply the nipple a much smoother surface to rotate on.
    This is heading toward the type of conditions, I would like my vintage TT bearing to function under.
    I will feel more at rest if I can achieve this.
    The method to remove the bushes should be reversible, so it can be returned to the original parts, if all goes well.
    a few points,
    by definition there has to be some play but if you can hear knocking thats too much imo,did you check play with fresh oil?
    also if your rocking on the platter to check for play thats a lot of leverage force,its not under anything like that that force when in use.
    if it were me and i really had no choice but to remove the bush id strip the tt right down and apply heat to the bearing casting it will/may come out a lot easier. if the bearing well is blind then you will have no option but to pull the bearing out,i would not risk doing it cold.id also put it back in with heat too.
    regarding the delrin thurst pad at the bottom of the well, mine has a indentation that the machined ball runs in,oil will sit in there to and aid lubrication although as nothing is mentioned in the tts-8000 service manual about oiling it i doubt if it was designed to have oil there?
    My System
    John Wood KT88 Amp.
    Paradise Phono Stage
    Sony TTS-8000 Turntable.
    PMAT-1010 MK6 Tonearm.
    Ortofon Cadenza Bronze
    Sony X555ES Cd Player
    Yamaha NS1000m Speakers

  6. #436
    Join Date: Jun 2018

    Location: Mildenhall, Suffolk

    Posts: 380
    I'm John.

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    I have put this same topic onto Lenco Heaven, I am enjoying the subject, and encouraging a further contribution from a site that lives and breaths rebuilding rotating parts on a TT.
    It can be found in 'Other Turntables' on the Home Page.
    I have a interest in a remedial, as a result of feeling the side to side movement from the Spindle housed in a Shaft that has no signs of Lubricant contained in it.
    The platter was removed following the first discovery, but I only ever apply a pressure directly to the spindle when checking for a wear at this location.
    At present if the method can be found to return a TTS 8000 back to as similar a condition as the it was when it left the factory, then that will be a plus for any TTS owners, who view it as their end game TT.
    I am aware of the interest in these TT's, as I have been on the receiving end of quite a few enquiries about the TT. To the point that some are looking to purchase one for storage, just in case their one in present use has some sort of catastrophic failure.
    To some with a well honed anal attitude to learning the engineering tolerances required to produce a immaculate vinyl replay, a worn Spindle Bearing 'might' be one of the conditions as to, what is classed as a Catastrophic Failure.
    For me I haven't got it that bad, I like the knowing of the requirement and the methods to maintain the ideal condition, so learning how to service and overhaul a Spindle Bearing is up my street.
    I am sure that if a acceptable method to remove the Bushes is discovered and a replacement Bush is discovered that fits the Spindle with a tighter tolerance, then I am on my way.
    The POM Thrust Pad appeals for a few reasons, but isolating metal to metal parts is of interest, as well as the attenuation properties POM is known to have when used in place of metal, if the Platter sits 1mm higher as a result of adding such a material, I can't foresee it having a
    detrimental effect on the performance of the TTS.
    What I am seeing as a result of this bearing discussion is a complete turn around on the earlier thoughts expressed on the maintenance of this bearing, to the point it is being extracted and filled with cleaning fluids, bathed in oil, cleaned once more and oiled again, and others are being advised to carry out the same procedures.
    The result of such invasive fettling is now a TT that is in the view of one person, a TT that is surpassing another respected TT they own and being classed as worthy for a bit of dueling against other TT Brands.
    All that turnaround in willingness to carry out a maintenance, created by just a few pages in a thread, that has to be a great result for all who are now converted.

  7. #437
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: brighton uk.

    Posts: 4,737
    I'm jamie.

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    please dont take this the wrong way but could you use a few paragraphs here and there as it makes it easier to read if the posts are long.
    why dont you clean out your tts bearing well,use fresh oil and report back on the play?
    My System
    John Wood KT88 Amp.
    Paradise Phono Stage
    Sony TTS-8000 Turntable.
    PMAT-1010 MK6 Tonearm.
    Ortofon Cadenza Bronze
    Sony X555ES Cd Player
    Yamaha NS1000m Speakers

  8. #438
    Join Date: Mar 2009

    Location: South West-ish, UK

    Posts: 457
    I'm Patrick.

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    Quote Originally Posted by karma67 View Post
    please dont take this the wrong way but could you use a few paragraphs here and there as it makes it easier to read if the posts are long.
    I'm glad it's not just me! Mind you, a capital letter at the start of each sentence helps readability too ;-)
    Last edited by Patrick Dixon; 31-08-2019 at 13:38.

  9. #439
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: brighton uk.

    Posts: 4,737
    I'm jamie.

    Default

    lol in my defence my caps key is missing from the keyboard
    My System
    John Wood KT88 Amp.
    Paradise Phono Stage
    Sony TTS-8000 Turntable.
    PMAT-1010 MK6 Tonearm.
    Ortofon Cadenza Bronze
    Sony X555ES Cd Player
    Yamaha NS1000m Speakers

  10. #440
    Join Date: Sep 2012

    Location: Derbyshire

    Posts: 542
    I'm mark.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hermit View Post
    Thanks for the additional info Mark. When you say that you "put the 3 screws in loosely, then switched on" do you mean that you started the motor without the platter or just that you powered up the deck?
    Yes, unlike the techy there's a sub-platter connected to the spindle, so its safe to run without the platter. When you get it apart you'll see the spring loaded mechanism (dust protection?) under the black plate. When I 1st re-assembled I could hear it rubbing, I just loosened the screws, moved the plate till it was quiet while it was running and tightened the screws.

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