Thorens TD146 motor recap how to ?

[tlscapital]

I'm planning to get rid of the original PC board of my hybrid Thorens TD146 or 147. I don't know what is anymore since I bought it with a TD160 'Super' top plate. Through time, I started to believe that my Thorens TD160 'Super' might have been combined with a TD147 and/or even a 147 'Jubilee'. Other bits like the resin sub-platter and it's 7mm shaft should indicate 145 or 146 parts as well...

Anyway the motor and PC board share the same specificities for both 146 and 147 models. So when I sell on that PC board I can finance my new "tailor-made" stainless steel top plate to come. The phono is so far in the tweaks now it don't matter much whatever Thorens model it is/was. And I must admit that I'm rather impressed with the adaptive evolutive capacities of both the SME tonearm and the Thorens turntable.

Since I don't want to keep useless bits I had in mind to sell on that PC board. In order to recap properly the motor directly with the brand new capacitors of 4.7 uF that I have home, I would appreciate if anyone would direct me (drawing/scheme) as to how to solder the caps with the 4 motor wires to the 2 wires from the alimentation plug. Thanks in advance.

[Audioflyer]

Hi Tim,

I've attached a link to the circuit diagram and pcb layout, the images are to big and if I reduce them they becomes pixalate.

http://i681.photobucket.com/albums/v...6_td147_CT.jpg

Thorens TD147 Schematic

http://i681.photobucket.com/albums/v..._td147_PCB.jpg

Thorens TD147 PCB

Looking at your pcb you have no synthesised AC generator and just the 16V ac motor.



Thorens TD147 Motor circuit original



Thorens TD147 Motor circuit modified

You will still need the "33 STOP 45" switch and linkage for the speed change unless you are planning to use only 33 rpm.
The "rs" switch and the 10nF (C100) capacitor can be removed and linked out.

The 4u7 capacitor set-up the the second motor winding at 90 degrees and you can alterer to make the motor run quieter if it noisy.

Sharif.

[tlscapital]

Hi Tim,

I've attached a link to the circuit diagram and pcb layout, the images are to big and if I reduce them they becomes pixalate.

You will still need the "33 STOP 45" switch and linkage for the speed change unless you are planning to use only 33 rpm.
The "rs" switch and the 10nF (C100) capacitor can be removed and linked out.

The 4u7 capacitor set-up the the second motor winding at 90 degrees and you can alterer to make the motor run quieter if it noisy.

Sharif.

Thanks for that Sharif, I've just made some screen capture of those schemes. I might work on it on day. Until then, I will keep it as such since it's running rather smoothly in the meantime. First let's see how it will work as it is with the PSU & tachometer. Cheers, Tim

[wade7575]

@tlscapital I was wondering if you have any spare 4.7uf/10/100 resistors that you used to fix your Thorens 146D I need one to fix a friends 146D.

If you do not have any spare that you want to sell can you tell me where you purchased yours,if anyone else knows where to buy these capacitors please help.

[tlscapital]

@wade7575 I have just replied to you with a PM. And since I decided to raise some funds for future tweaks, I have started to sell some spare parts I had. Like my original TD146 motor (replaced once with a 110/220 VAC TD145 one for a swifter replacement after I, idiot me, have burned my TD146 PCB) and other bits. Originally I kept it to test it with my 'Eagle & RoadRunner' combo to see if a 16 VAC motor would react differently, but I have come to the conclusion that the differences in torque, magnetic field and rumble where not different.

And since I am satisfied with the little simplified PCB replacement to drive only my now 110/220 VAC TD145 motor since I have a fully/fully manual SME tweaked tonearm, off which I have dismantle and sold on it's cue mechanism to fund other tweaks. Without the my TD146 PCB melt down incident, I guess I would have kept the 16 VAC motor. But I would have bought a better wall wart PSU transformer that I did in the attempt to resuscitate the burned down TD146 PCB. Too late, I never got to use it though. Shame it was even an adjustable one...

I have come to understand that the switch from 110/220 VAC motor with Thorens (like many other brands do actually) was to save on production costs in the manufacturing of the turntables. All could just be build the same 100% and packed with a wall wart PSU transformer for any countries accordingly. And their wall wart PSU where not of the big and heavy kind... So all in all not worse nor better. Only different with an extra wall wart to be placed at a distance not to induce magnetic interferences during playback time.