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Thread: Micro-Seiki DDX-100 / Marantz TT-1000 bearing oil

  1. #11
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: London

    Posts: 685
    I'm James.

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    Well if the plate genuinely is delrin or nylon you'd be safe with the anderol 465, please keep us informed?
    I have no idea why lubing is not listed as a service item but the manual only specifies replacing the motor unit complete.

    Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

  2. #12
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: http://www.homehifi.co.uk

    Posts: 6,288

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    I'll be interested to know how to get the platter off, and/or oil the spindle. I haven't managed to figure that one out yet in the decades of ownership of my DDX-1000.

  3. #13
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: London

    Posts: 685
    I'm James.

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    You just lift the platter off. It's probably stuck to the spindle a bit. Gentle action will release it. But hold off oiling anything right now!

    Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

  4. #14
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: http://www.homehifi.co.uk

    Posts: 6,288

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    I tried lifting the platter up many times, even using copious amount of elbow grease. But mine seems to have some sort of secret locking mechanism somewhere. It just refuses to budge.

  5. #15
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,624
    I'm Geoff.

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    The spindle should have a bit of end float in the bearing, so lift the platter as high as the float will allow and pack slips of card under the platter edge all round to hold it up, then use a plastic face mallet or a hammer and block of wood to ease the impact and firmly (but not silly hard) tap the spindle end. The platter should 'pop' free. I've used this method many times.

  6. #16
    Join Date: Dec 2010

    Location: Southeastern PA USA

    Posts: 17
    I'm Mark.

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    The platter will pop off but there's not much to see underneath unless you intend to take it apart. I'll provide photos of mine when I lube it.

    Other work I've done in this table:

    • Recapped just because of its age
    • Had the platter professionally polished and lacquered
    • Replaced the rotted feet with sorbothane
    • Put a cap across the power switch to reduce the turn-on pop (there is one on the schematic but not on my table)
    • Went through the speed calibration exercise with a frequency counter.


    I have the SME armboard and plan to add a 3rd arm when finances allow. Fun fun! I don't expect to replace this table in my lifetime unless something irreplaceable dies.
    Mark

  7. #17
    Join Date: Aug 2017

    Location: Hertfordshire, U.K.

    Posts: 298
    I'm Graham.

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    I always used PDP-38 oil for my turntable and r-2-r lubrication, but then the company paid. I don't think that I could afford it now.
    GrahamS - It's not what you hear that counts, it's what you think you hear........

    Present Kit: NAD 326BEE, NAD C515BEE CD player, JVC QL-7 DD turntable, JVC Tonearm, Shure M97Ve, Audio Technica AT95EX, Pickering V15, JVC Z1E, Wharfedale Diamond 230s, Visual Rio interconnects and My Ears.

  8. #18
    Join Date: Aug 2012

    Location: North East

    Posts: 3,670
    I'm Steve.

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    Fab th this. I would love one.

  9. #19
    Join Date: Apr 2015

    Location: Central Virginia

    Posts: 1,736
    I'm Russell.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aerobat View Post
    This came up in a search (no affiliation):

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064BX44I...v_ov_lig_dp_it
    I have a bottle of that stuff I bought for Model train engines! Good to know I can use it on my ‘table if need be.

    Russell

  10. #20
    Join Date: Dec 2010

    Location: Southeastern PA USA

    Posts: 17
    I'm Mark.

    Default

    Yesterday the oil arrived so I dove in. Here's what I did:

    Bottom of the DDX with cover removed:


    Lower bearing removed. What looks like a blob of oil is a plastic disk, which I'll show later.


    Top covers removed:


    Motor out:


    Motor apart:


    These plastic disks fell out. I assume they need to be replaced, not sure with what. I just put them back on top of the thrust bearing.


    All surfaces were cleaned and re-oiled with the synthetic and after buttoning it up it's running smooth and silent. I'll chalk this one up as a success but I am concerned about those plastic disks, I assume they used to be flat.
    Mark

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