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Thread: What's the purpose of a preamp?

  1. #11
    Join Date: Jun 2014

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    No point adding more gear if you don't need to as long as you're happy using your system that way.

    If there's room in the power amp case, you could even investigate fitting a remote control pot.
    Alan (Firebottle) suggested that very same thing to me recently. And I do like the idea of that.
    I just dropped in, to see what condition my condition was in

    T/T: Inspire Monarch, X200 tonearm, Ortofon Quintet Blue. Phono: Project Tube Box CD: Marantz CD6006 (UK Edition); Amp: Musical Fidelity A5 Integrated.
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  2. #12
    Join Date: Dec 2014

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    Quote Originally Posted by pankon View Post
    Since most -if not all- sources (e.g. DAC, CD player, phono stage) have an output voltage, that's capable of driving a power amp, then what's the purpose of an active preamp?

    Doesn't a passive attenuator seem like a simpler, less intrusive and 'cleaner' solution of controlling volume, instead of an active preamp?
    In my experience - yes, but opinions are always quite strongly divided on this topic (as pointed out)

    I currently use a simple 'voltage-divider' attentuator in my second system between a DAC and my Quad 303 power amp and can find no fault. In the past I have also had a similar set up with a Quad 405-2 and found it equalling the Quad 34 pre-amp it was originally paired with and had no problems at all.

    BUT you need to note that these are both Solid State power amps and quite sensitive (0.5v input) so may lend themselves easily to this as opposed to your Croft tube based blocks. The divide in opinion also seems to be drawn along these lines quite often (i.e. tube v SS) although not exclusively.

  3. #13
    Join Date: May 2015

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    It's a matter of principle that has to be proven right or wrong in practice. If no preamp is really required, apart from controlling volume, then why not go with a simple(r ) device, such a passive dual-mono attenuator and replace the preamp altogether? The principle is "simpler is better", right?
    System1: Lenco L75 with custom plinth, SLAT, sph bearing, SG4 external power supply + Alfred Bokrand AB-309 tonearm + Denon DL103R (aluminum body) + Well Tempered 12" tonearm clone + Denon DL103R (wooden body), ASR Mini Basis Exclusive HV, Marantz CD6005, LAB12 DAC1 SE+, Hattor BIG passive + active pre, Lab12 Suono power amp, Falcon LS3/5a Gold Badge, LAB12 Gordian, Belden 8428, Black Cat Red Level Triode, LAB12 Knack MkII

    System 2: Roksan Xerxes original (HiFi Inspire plinth) with Maxon ReMax motor + Audiomods Series6 + Ortofon Cadenza Black microridge retipped, ASR Mini Basis Exclusive, Marantz CD6003, Croft Micro25R + Series7R monoblocks (110W/ea), Harbeth SHL5 Plus 40th Anniv.

    System 3: Marantz CD6003, Croft SuperMicroII ('R' spec by Croft, Tesla E83CC in phono)+ Series7, Snell Type EII (with bypass caps, new internal wiring, WBT nextgen 0703Cu), Mark Grant HDX1, Atlas Hyper 3.0

  4. #14
    Join Date: Sep 2009

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    on my 30th plus pre amp now , just got another this week to play with . they add a sense of realism and musicality that straight vol controlled dacs sometimes miss but its individual choice
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  5. #15
    Join Date: Aug 2018

    Location: Near Newcastle upon Tyne

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    @ Phil aka Hifi nut - Did you just buy that Schiit Freya?
    Look forward to what you think if you did, and let me know if you want to move it on.
    Mand
    Last edited by Mand; 19-08-2018 at 20:00.

  6. #16
    Join Date: May 2015

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    As a matter of fact, I do not have a specific budget in mind. My question is whether I could improve the overall sound quality of my system (clarity, detail, sense of realism), by removing the active preamp and just adding a passive attenuator for controlling the volume.
    But if I had to provide a figure, I would say 300-400GBP...?
    System1: Lenco L75 with custom plinth, SLAT, sph bearing, SG4 external power supply + Alfred Bokrand AB-309 tonearm + Denon DL103R (aluminum body) + Well Tempered 12" tonearm clone + Denon DL103R (wooden body), ASR Mini Basis Exclusive HV, Marantz CD6005, LAB12 DAC1 SE+, Hattor BIG passive + active pre, Lab12 Suono power amp, Falcon LS3/5a Gold Badge, LAB12 Gordian, Belden 8428, Black Cat Red Level Triode, LAB12 Knack MkII

    System 2: Roksan Xerxes original (HiFi Inspire plinth) with Maxon ReMax motor + Audiomods Series6 + Ortofon Cadenza Black microridge retipped, ASR Mini Basis Exclusive, Marantz CD6003, Croft Micro25R + Series7R monoblocks (110W/ea), Harbeth SHL5 Plus 40th Anniv.

    System 3: Marantz CD6003, Croft SuperMicroII ('R' spec by Croft, Tesla E83CC in phono)+ Series7, Snell Type EII (with bypass caps, new internal wiring, WBT nextgen 0703Cu), Mark Grant HDX1, Atlas Hyper 3.0

  7. #17
    Join Date: Aug 2018

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    I think you can improve all those aspects with a passive, but not sure by how much at your budget.
    Mand

  8. #18
    Join Date: May 2015

    Location: Greece

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mand View Post
    I think you can improve all those aspects with a passive, but not sure by how much at your budget.
    Mand
    Well, what kind of budget would make sense, in order to substitute my current Croft Micro 25RS LS and get a significantly better performance?

    Thanks
    System1: Lenco L75 with custom plinth, SLAT, sph bearing, SG4 external power supply + Alfred Bokrand AB-309 tonearm + Denon DL103R (aluminum body) + Well Tempered 12" tonearm clone + Denon DL103R (wooden body), ASR Mini Basis Exclusive HV, Marantz CD6005, LAB12 DAC1 SE+, Hattor BIG passive + active pre, Lab12 Suono power amp, Falcon LS3/5a Gold Badge, LAB12 Gordian, Belden 8428, Black Cat Red Level Triode, LAB12 Knack MkII

    System 2: Roksan Xerxes original (HiFi Inspire plinth) with Maxon ReMax motor + Audiomods Series6 + Ortofon Cadenza Black microridge retipped, ASR Mini Basis Exclusive, Marantz CD6003, Croft Micro25R + Series7R monoblocks (110W/ea), Harbeth SHL5 Plus 40th Anniv.

    System 3: Marantz CD6003, Croft SuperMicroII ('R' spec by Croft, Tesla E83CC in phono)+ Series7, Snell Type EII (with bypass caps, new internal wiring, WBT nextgen 0703Cu), Mark Grant HDX1, Atlas Hyper 3.0

  9. #19
    Join Date: Dec 2014

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    Quote Originally Posted by pankon View Post
    Well, what kind of budget would make sense, in order to substitute my current Croft Micro 25RS LS and get a significantly better performance?

    Thanks
    Khozmo Acoustics attenuators enjoy a good reputation although I have no personal experience of them
    They have a dual mono on this page for $329 that looks immaculate:

    https://khozmo.com

    I usually fabricate my own ---- but if I was in the market for one I would definitely be interested, the build quality looks superb.

  10. #20
    Join Date: Aug 2018

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    I'm no expert but music first passive and Townsend allegri are universally approved by passive advocates.
    Can be found used in uk for £1700 to £2000 ish.
    Schiit Freya that I mention above is £700 new in uk, it offers passive, buffered passive and tube gain stage.
    I can recommend wyred4sound stp SE - passive with active input buffer approx £2000ish.

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