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Thread: Bigbottle MC Phonostage

  1. #31
    Bigman80 Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by smangus View Post
    What valves will it use Oliver? Great to see it coming along.
    It's going to be

    PCC88-ECC83-PCC88

    Nice combo. I am currently using the part PCB part P2P wired prototype with that combination and it sounds great. Has very low Miller capacitance and good gain figures. Impedance is good too but can't remember the figures off hand.

  2. #32
    Join Date: Jan 2009

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    I'm Deleted.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigman80 View Post
    I have started to solder the top too on the advice if YNWAN(?). I did ask why but no reply.

    I have only don't them from the back side previously. Looks a bit prettier but adding time and using more materials.
    Sorry, the reason is simply to ensure the most consistent and thorough connection. As SQ states (and as I know you are doing), the primary solder point is on the rear of the board. If I’m being very critical, some of your solder joints look like they could do with just a touch more heat to allow the solder to flow more tightly to the pad and component leg (I’m assuming you are using 60/40 solder?).
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  3. #33
    Bigman80 Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by YNWaN View Post
    Sorry, the reason is simply to ensure the most consistent and thorough connection. As SQ states (and as I know you are doing), the primary solder point is on the rear of the board. If I’m being very critical, some of your solder joints look like they could do with just a touch more heat to allow the solder to flow more tightly to the pad and component leg (I’m assuming you are using 60/40 solder?).
    I'm using silver solder. Not sure if the brand.

    Yup, more heat flow! I'll apply it later.

  4. #34
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

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    I'm Geoff.

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    I've gone off using silver solder because of flow issues even with a proper hot iron. In most situations it is of no advantage in any case.

  5. #35
    Bigman80 Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    I've gone off using silver solder because of flow issues even with a proper hot iron. In most situations it is of no benefit in any case.
    To be fair, I had it lying around after I built a pair of SPOTFIRE se (silver edition) for someone. I don't generally use it either but might as well! I use Loctite 60/40 usually.

    It's actually pretty good stuff and bonded really well with the cable and plugs. My suspicion is the problem is my concern of ruining the PCB with too much heat. I'm still new to PCBs so am still learning. I'll apply some more heat later on and see what happens, I'll probably re do a couple as I got a bit carried away and they look blobby.

  6. #36
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,624
    I'm Geoff.

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    Ordinary lead based solderered joints will be far more conductive than the spindly component wires simply because of their size. If I recall, lead is about 30% less conductive than copper so a soldered joint needs only 30% greater cross section than the copper wire being soldered to match it. (roughly, I think, bearing in mind that lead solder is an alloy )

  7. #37
    Bigman80 Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    Ordinary lead based solderered joints will be far more conductive than the spindly component wires simply because of their size. If I recall, lead is about 30% less conductive than copper so a soldered joint needs only 30% greater cross section than the copper wire being soldered to match it. (roughly, I think, bearing in mind that lead solder is an alloy )
    I'll take your word on that Geoff.

    No problems with standard 60/40, just didn't see me using the silver for anything else so decided to use it on this.

  8. #38
    Bigman80 Guest

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    A few pics from tonight's efforts.

    Blobby Soldering fixed

    Capacitors raised due to fouling resistors next to them (next set of boards to be slightly larger for more room)

    Heatsink fitted with regulator

    Polypropylene caps now soldered in place.

    Zener diodes and diodes soldered

    B9A valve bases soldered in.

    There will be a break for now as I need to order more bits but it'll have to wait for a while.


  9. #39
    Bigman80 Guest

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    A few pics of tonight's work. Board is now completed and ready to be transplanted into the casework. Won't be for a few weeks though

    Valves inserted to check the overall height of the board on 10mm standoffs.

    Very happy with the board so far. A few revisions of component spacing and a couple of missing identification numbers for resistors and wire links need to be addressed but generally, the board is nice and rigid and is high quality. There are a couple of capacitor spaces with no requirement of a capacitor so they will need to be removed. A couple of spare resistor spaces too need to go but that's about it. No lifted tracks from soldering with too much heat, etc.


  10. #40
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Down South

    Posts: 2,413
    I'm Neal.

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    So much misinformation. It’s silver loaded solder not silver solder which is quite different. Silver loaded solder improves the wetability of the joint allowing for a better flow at a lower temp. The eutectic point of the solder is extended reducing the issues around dull or dry joints. Silver also adds to the strength of the joint and it may if you believe in it “sound” better.
    Listening in a Foo free Zone...

    Only a Sith deals in absolutes.

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