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Sorry, the reason is simply to ensure the most consistent and thorough connection. As SQ states (and as I know you are doing), the primary solder point is on the rear of the board. If I’m being very critical, some of your solder joints look like they could do with just a touch more heat to allow the solder to flow more tightly to the pad and component leg (I’m assuming you are using 60/40 solder?).
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I've gone off using silver solder because of flow issues even with a proper hot iron. In most situations it is of no advantage in any case.
To be fair, I had it lying around after I built a pair of SPOTFIRE se (silver edition) for someone. I don't generally use it either but might as well! I use Loctite 60/40 usually.
It's actually pretty good stuff and bonded really well with the cable and plugs. My suspicion is the problem is my concern of ruining the PCB with too much heat. I'm still new to PCBs so am still learning. I'll apply some more heat later on and see what happens, I'll probably re do a couple as I got a bit carried away and they look blobby.
Ordinary lead based solderered joints will be far more conductive than the spindly component wires simply because of their size. If I recall, lead is about 30% less conductive than copper so a soldered joint needs only 30% greater cross section than the copper wire being soldered to match it. (roughly, I think, bearing in mind that lead solder is an alloy )
A few pics from tonight's efforts.
Blobby Soldering fixed
Capacitors raised due to fouling resistors next to them (next set of boards to be slightly larger for more room)
Heatsink fitted with regulator
Polypropylene caps now soldered in place.
Zener diodes and diodes soldered
B9A valve bases soldered in.
There will be a break for now as I need to order more bits but it'll have to wait for a while.
A few pics of tonight's work. Board is now completed and ready to be transplanted into the casework. Won't be for a few weeks though
Valves inserted to check the overall height of the board on 10mm standoffs.
Very happy with the board so far. A few revisions of component spacing and a couple of missing identification numbers for resistors and wire links need to be addressed but generally, the board is nice and rigid and is high quality. There are a couple of capacitor spaces with no requirement of a capacitor so they will need to be removed. A couple of spare resistor spaces too need to go but that's about it. No lifted tracks from soldering with too much heat, etc.
So much misinformation. It’s silver loaded solder not silver solder which is quite different. Silver loaded solder improves the wetability of the joint allowing for a better flow at a lower temp. The eutectic point of the solder is extended reducing the issues around dull or dry joints. Silver also adds to the strength of the joint and it may if you believe in it “sound” better.
Listening in a Foo free Zone...
Only a Sith deals in absolutes.