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Thread: Marantz CD94mk2 drawer not opening

  1. #11
    Join Date: Aug 2016

    Location: South Yorkshire

    Posts: 75
    I'm David.

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    Hi Lawrence

    I've fitted a good number of Thacker belt kits to Marantz high-end CD players - there should be a very full thread on AOS to which I contributed some time two year ago. It's intricate work but not impossible. The one thing you must deal with is the tensioned wire drive which has to come off to allow access to one of the belts. Don't attempt this unless you have a very certain method of stopping the wire unravelling. That and the frustration of dropping tiny circlips into the heart of the machine...

    You'd do well to check the foam bump stops and the foams on the clamp as these will have aged badly I guess. The mechanism sled can get badly fouled by degraded plastics foam so check the runners.

    PM me if you want a one to one.
    DGP

  2. #12
    Join Date: Jun 2015

    Location: London/Durham

    Posts: 2,001
    I'm Lawrence.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DGP View Post
    Hi Lawrence

    I've fitted a good number of Thacker belt kits to Marantz high-end CD players - there should be a very full thread on AOS to which I contributed some time two year ago. It's intricate work but not impossible. The one thing you must deal with is the tensioned wire drive which has to come off to allow access to one of the belts. Don't attempt this unless you have a very certain method of stopping the wire unravelling. That and the frustration of dropping tiny circlips into the heart of the machine...

    You'd do well to check the foam bump stops and the foams on the clamp as these will have aged badly I guess. The mechanism sled can get badly fouled by degraded plastics foam so check the runners.

    PM me if you want a one to one.
    DGP
    Cheers David, I saw a thread with an old photo but I couldn't make it bigger for some reason. I'll open the player up again when I get some alcohol to clean it up and have a better look at access. I could only see three obvious belts, two down the side and one controlling the clamp, maybe I missed a second on the clamp wheel/cam.

    Sent from my BLN-L21 using Tapatalk

  3. #13
    Join Date: Jun 2015

    Location: London/Durham

    Posts: 2,001
    I'm Lawrence.

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    Bought some, ended up getting 500ml for under 6 even though I don't need it as I begrudge paying half that for 50ml!!

    Sent from my BLN-L21 using Tapatalk

  4. #14
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 37,234
    I'm Geoff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lawrence001 View Post
    Bought some, ended up getting 500ml for under 6 even though I don't need it as I begrudge paying half that for 50ml!!
    It won't go to waste, it's very good for cleaning things.

  5. #15
    Join Date: Jun 2015

    Location: London/Durham

    Posts: 2,001
    I'm Lawrence.

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    It won't go to waste, it's very good for cleaning things.
    That's what I thought, including round the house I imagine.

    Sent from my BLN-L21 using Tapatalk

  6. #16
    Join Date: Jun 2015

    Location: London/Durham

    Posts: 2,001
    I'm Lawrence.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DGP View Post
    Hi Lawrence

    I've fitted a good number of Thacker belt kits to Marantz high-end CD players - there should be a very full thread on AOS to which I contributed some time two year ago. It's intricate work but not impossible. The one thing you must deal with is the tensioned wire drive which has to come off to allow access to one of the belts. Don't attempt this unless you have a very certain method of stopping the wire unravelling. That and the frustration of dropping tiny circlips into the heart of the machine...

    You'd do well to check the foam bump stops and the foams on the clamp as these will have aged badly I guess. The mechanism sled can get badly fouled by degraded plastics foam so check the runners.

    PM me if you want a one to one.
    DGP
    So, I cleaned up the wheels to a reasonable level last night. I can see the issue with the wire blocking access to the inner wheel. These circlips look fiddly as well, it's a veritable minefield around there! What happens if that wire comes off it's wheel, I take it that's to be avoided at all costs?

    I also can't work out which belt goes where, there are two shorter thinner ones, one thicker and slightly longer then one thick long one. Online guidance is mixed, one shows the two thick ones on the drawer mech behind the wire, while another says the thin ones both come off the motor wheels while the thicker ones go on the disc clamp cam and drawer mech (the latter being the long one which is obv.)

    Lastly, I have a tube of silicone grease, it's a bit thin compared to some thick greases I've seen used in CD mechs, should I use this somewhere while I've got it open?

    Thanks

    Sent from my BLN-L21 using Tapatalk

  7. #17
    Join Date: Aug 2016

    Location: South Yorkshire

    Posts: 75
    I'm David.

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    Hi - there are four belts in the Thacker kit. Two shorter identical belts are the lower belts on both sides of the mech. The thicker of the two larger belts goes on the clamp and the other on the slide. The clamp side is relatively easy to replace but you need to remove the clamp pulley (which means the circlip) to get at the bottom belt. You may also have to remove the bracket and clamp microswitch. The other side is a can of worms compared to the clamp side. You will not be able to wind the wire back on the drum correctly if you let it slip. My technique has been to remove the power switch so I can take off the rod connecting the front panel to the back panel switch to give some room to work. I have then fixed the wire wound on the nylon pulley with heat resistant silicone adhesive tape of the type use computers - something that won't leave gum behind. I then remove the circlip and unhook the spring tensioner before removing the pulley. Get the belt below sorted then the slide belt before replacing the pulley with the wire. Reattach the tensioner before removing your tape.

    There is a circular foam washer on the driven side of the mech that may have perished and will leave black plastics gum on the sled rail. This need cleaning off is present - I've used slightly oiled replacement felt washers with success. There are two foam bump stops almost buried inside the back of the fascia which may need replacing too. The one on the non-rail slide of the mechanism (the sled side) is prone to have left gum all along sled - this needs cleaning off if present and a tiny bit of silicone grease used on the sled faces. I've used O-ring grease from camera or scuba sets with success but too thin is not good as it will 'walk' and eventually get into the laser if you're unlucky. The clamp foams with probably have perished too and should be replaced - some seemed to be a felt pad and a foam button where only the foam needs replacing.

    You can check the clamp cam is working by moving the mech by hand - failure to engage the microswitch from a slipping belt is the commonest cause of failure in my experience. Isopropyl alcohol is your friend when you reassemble the belts and pulleys and go easy with the silicone grease!

    Check the laser lens is clean too but use only lens cleaner and the folded end of a tissue as the focusing mechanism is delicate.

    Best of luck - you can still PM me if you need help. Just don't let that wire unravel.
    DGP

  8. #18
    Join Date: Jun 2015

    Location: London/Durham

    Posts: 2,001
    I'm Lawrence.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DGP View Post
    Hi - there are four belts in the Thacker kit. Two shorter identical belts are the lower belts on both sides of the mech. The thicker of the two larger belts goes on the clamp and the other on the slide. The clamp side is relatively easy to replace but you need to remove the clamp pulley (which means the circlip) to get at the bottom belt. You may also have to remove the bracket and clamp microswitch. The other side is a can of worms compared to the clamp side. You will not be able to wind the wire back on the drum correctly if you let it slip. My technique has been to remove the power switch so I can take off the rod connecting the front panel to the back panel switch to give some room to work. I have then fixed the wire wound on the nylon pulley with heat resistant silicone adhesive tape of the type use computers - something that won't leave gum behind. I then remove the circlip and unhook the spring tensioner before removing the pulley. Get the belt below sorted then the slide belt before replacing the pulley with the wire. Reattach the tensioner before removing your tape.

    There is a circular foam washer on the driven side of the mech that may have perished and will leave black plastics gum on the sled rail. This need cleaning off is present - I've used slightly oiled replacement felt washers with success. There are two foam bump stops almost buried inside the back of the fascia which may need replacing too. The one on the non-rail slide of the mechanism (the sled side) is prone to have left gum all along sled - this needs cleaning off if present and a tiny bit of silicone grease used on the sled faces. I've used O-ring grease from camera or scuba sets with success but too thin is not good as it will 'walk' and eventually get into the laser if you're unlucky. The clamp foams with probably have perished too and should be replaced - some seemed to be a felt pad and a foam button where only the foam needs replacing.

    You can check the clamp cam is working by moving the mech by hand - failure to engage the microswitch from a slipping belt is the commonest cause of failure in my experience. Isopropyl alcohol is your friend when you reassemble the belts and pulleys and go easy with the silicone grease!

    Check the laser lens is clean too but use only lens cleaner and the folded end of a tissue as the focusing mechanism is delicate.

    Best of luck - you can still PM me if you need help. Just don't let that wire unravel.
    DGP
    Thanks David, I'm now thinking of getting someone else to do this, do you know of anyone London way?

    Sent from my BLN-L21 using Tapatalk

  9. #19
    Join Date: Aug 2016

    Location: South Yorkshire

    Posts: 75
    I'm David.

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    Sorry Lawrence I don't know anyone who'd do this work for you - shame I've just moved out of the NE as Durham wouldn't have been too much of a stretch.
    DGP

  10. #20
    Join Date: Jun 2015

    Location: London/Durham

    Posts: 2,001
    I'm Lawrence.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DGP View Post
    Sorry Lawrence I don't know anyone who'd do this work for you - shame I've just moved out of the NE as Durham wouldn't have been too much of a stretch.
    DGP
    Never mind thanks anyway, I'm sure I'll get there.

    Sent from my BLN-L21 using Tapatalk

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