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Thread: A speaker project

  1. #21
    Join Date: Dec 2014

    Location: UK, East Midlands

    Posts: 1,161
    I'm Mike.

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    Glueing it all together, after some shenanigans with a circular saw on the back lawn.

    Dowel pegs for the ply joints and clamps for the rest:






  2. #22
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 21,999
    I'm Martin.

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    That looks like you know what you are doing. You don't fancy knocking me up some Tannoy cabs do you?
    Martin



    Current Lash Up:

    Technics SLP1200 CD Player * NVA P90SA passive pre / Krell KSA50S Power amp * JM Lab Electra 926 loudspeakers *


    'This is the sort of music I'd be listening to if I was going shopping for a training bra.'

  3. #23
    Join Date: Dec 2014

    Location: UK, East Midlands

    Posts: 1,161
    I'm Mike.

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    The interior seams were sealed with silicon and the T nuts retrieved from the old cabs.
    Despite the need to allow the silicon plenty of time to cure, curiosity got the better of me and had to give them a quick blast:





    The only material I had to hand was MP3 from an old iPhone connected to my Quad 303 but I have to say that the result was actually pretty impressive; bass was more than sufficient on a track like 'Protection' from Massive Attack or Portishead's 'It Could be Sweet'. More impressive was the very open nature of the sound which was infinitely better than when they were in the stock cabinets, limited by the crossover filters.

    This was yesterday and today I have been letting the boxes breathe while I rustle up some grilles. If I get time tomorrow I'll put them back together and take my RPi out to the garage for some more serious listening

  4. #24
    Join Date: Dec 2014

    Location: UK, East Midlands

    Posts: 1,161
    I'm Mike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Macca View Post
    That looks like you know what you are doing. You don't fancy knocking me up some Tannoy cabs do you?
    Cheers for that ... as to the Tannoy cabs, everything's possible at a price but I tend to fuck up more than I get right so I wouldn't recommend it

  5. #25
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 36,869
    I'm Geoff.

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    Not sure how those drivers might fare employed as full range units. Could work OK.

    You've reminded me actually. I must set up my table saw for my own (next) speaker project.

  6. #26
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 21,999
    I'm Martin.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikmas View Post
    Cheers for that ... as to the Tannoy cabs, everything's possible at a price but I tend to fuck up more than I get right so I wouldn't recommend it
    The cab in the picture above suggests otherwise to me.
    Martin



    Current Lash Up:

    Technics SLP1200 CD Player * NVA P90SA passive pre / Krell KSA50S Power amp * JM Lab Electra 926 loudspeakers *


    'This is the sort of music I'd be listening to if I was going shopping for a training bra.'

  7. #27
    Join Date: Dec 2014

    Location: UK, East Midlands

    Posts: 1,161
    I'm Mike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    Not sure how those drivers might fare employed as full range units. Could work OK.
    Cheers Geoff - my main concern is whether they pose a threat to the Quad in terms of load (I am a numpty in case you hadn't guessed) If the drivers eventually pack in it will be a slight sadness but not something I would lose sleep over. The lack of a tweeter doesn't bother me that much given that I always found the stock DM-10 a little too bright and also in the meantime my age has pretty much put paid to my ability to actually hear upper frequency ranges - if they were there I wouldn't notice .....

    I want to experiment a bit with stuffing the boxes - at the moment I have just recycled the foam from the originals so any suggestions will be most welcome. I might also see what effect introducing a port has, I have saved the old port tubes but not sure how effective/appropriate they would be given the significant reduction in volume.

  8. #28
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 21,999
    I'm Martin.

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    The drivers will be breaking up after 3khz and won't do much after about 5Khz so unless your hearing is really bad you'll be missing a fair bit.
    Martin



    Current Lash Up:

    Technics SLP1200 CD Player * NVA P90SA passive pre / Krell KSA50S Power amp * JM Lab Electra 926 loudspeakers *


    'This is the sort of music I'd be listening to if I was going shopping for a training bra.'

  9. #29
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 36,869
    I'm Geoff.

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    You won't hurt the amp. They'll be an easy load for it.

    If you put a port in, installing it in the base might be effective seeing as the boxes don't sit straight on the deck. Just put it towards the back so it doesn't foul the magnet.

    As for wadding. Just experiment.

  10. #30
    Join Date: Oct 2016

    Location: Bolton, England

    Posts: 1,383
    I'm Andrew.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Macca View Post
    The drivers will be breaking up after 3khz and won't do much after about 5Khz so unless your hearing is really bad you'll be missing a fair bit.
    I agree.
    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    You won't hurt the amp. They'll be an easy load for it.
    Again, I agree.

    Is that cabinet open on the bottom?
    Some drivers are optimised for ported enclosures. Some drivers are optimised for sealed boxes. Some drivers fall somewhere in between and can be used in either type of cabinet. This page suggests that these drivers are optimised for ported enclosures, and of course the original DM10 enclosures were ported:
    file:///home/andrew/Downloads/DM10%20Brochure.pdf

    The relevant bit says "The DM10 bass/midrange driver is a 200mm nominal piston driver unit with a cast alloy chassis and a motor system optimised for the vented enclosure design."

    Vented enclosures need to be carefully designed to avoid the port resonating at the wrong frequency and doing peculiar things to the bass. The easiest thing to do would be to use the same enclosure volume and port dimensions as the original cabinet.

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