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Thread: The Bug is back

  1. #41
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Liverpool

    Posts: 766
    I'm Sandro.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sq225917 View Post
    Your progress makes me ashamed, I still have power amps to case up 16 months after I bought them. I ordered cases last week though.
    what a load of ….

    You been making one paradise after the other everybody knows

  2. #42
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Liverpool

    Posts: 766
    I'm Sandro.

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    Things have been moving along and the amplifiers are starting to take shape

    I had my niece and her boy friend around and it has been a week of live music over here from them playing guitar in my living room to the Chester cathedral organ and quire and few live gigs in Liverpool pubs
    File size is to large to post those here I may get around it same time


    https://rikyandthekids.bandcamp.com/album/lets-rumble

    This is a link to Riky (Riccardo) Latest CD hope you like it ( I certainly do)





    DSCF2263.jpgInput boards ,speaker protection and soft start board

    DSCF2264.jpgDSCF2265.jpg First lay out of Paul's amplifiers

    DSCF2266.jpg Martin has been around as well and started soldering the components to his boards so the build of the 100W turbo has started

  3. #43
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Liverpool

    Posts: 766
    I'm Sandro.

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    It is a slow process but we are learning the 100 ways that do not work
    Copper bar is lovely (not) to work whit and take a rustic look if you touch it so I have been finding the wrong way to do electroplating at home there is a fair bit to do but I think I have cracked it. (Clean clean clean and clean)

    Then there is the lay out to be considered

    Any way same more porn for you in the pictures


    100 W build sink bottom view whit fans

    DSCF2267.jpg


    One way to go may need different base plate
    DSCF2268.jpg


    Capacitors stick out this way
    DSCF2269.jpg

    and this is another way
    DSCF2270.jpg

  4. #44
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Liverpool

    Posts: 766
    I'm Sandro.

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    PS you may noticed the different tint of the cooper plating bars
    The one whit no resistors is the last one I did and probably the best of the lot
    that was after cleaning the lot whit same alkaline gigamagic one keep in the kitchen (oven cleaner) and new sponges.
    Easy enough to start again and make the lot much better


    + we have found a source for better and more color-full potions (not royal WE this is DIY collaboration and Jobs are delegated around)
    I may delegate the plating process once it has decent standard

    at present I am using a Stainless steel wand whit 2 1.5 V batteries

    As soon as we get the new staff I will post

    About the resistors both on the boards (1R X2) and on the CRC (0.47 R X6) I am using Fucushima Futaba MPC 71and MPC 74

    Capacitors: at the moment the white ones are PEH 200 10mF

    On the 100 W build we are looking at getting a ridiculous amount of Beer Can sized dudas probably in CRCRC

  5. #45
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Liverpool

    Posts: 766
    I'm Sandro.

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    While Martin is soldering it's own board's and doing same home work (read the Pass Write up willya)
    I am making progress whit the lay out


    DSCF2271.jpg

    Front view Traffo not to scale

    DSCF2272.jpg

    Top view Caps are on the way so for now same small bear cans it will have 3 X 47mF PEH200 in CRCRC or CRCC or maybe CRCLC CCRC or CLCRC please vote for your fav! yup 12 total

    DSCF2273.jpg

    Back view whit input board on heat sink again maybe
    DSCF2274.jpgDSCF2275.jpg

    And the 2 sides

    One may have noticed the space under the sinks ? more about that later

  6. #46
    Bigman80 Guest

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    beer can markers, I love that.

    Sent from my VKY-L09 using Tapatalk

  7. #47
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Liverpool

    Posts: 766
    I'm Sandro.

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    Warning Maths In this post !!!

    Assume 100 W nominal
    Assume 35V rails
    Assume 1 A Bias on each output duda 35X1 + W each duda is loaded at 35 W max may be as hi as 50 W = 1.4 A

    Class A idle current on each rail 4 A X 35 V =140 W in heath that has to be dissipated on each heath sink .

    Total energy saving 560 W You can certainly switch off a decent sized radiator in the listening room and use your FiFi instead a much greener approach would be to turn off the central heating completely and just stay in the listening room all the time

    To improve on the efficiency and give you even more savings lets puts same fans on the sinks so that cold air go in from the bottom and pop out from the top much warmer as the music (or the absence of it ) will do that for you free of charge (Actually is a bit more than that as Gas is more expensive)

    Bottom and side view of the 2 cheap fans they spec at 25 dB noise and should be running at less than 1/2 voltage As fitted there will be a sheet of acrylic bolted to the bottom of the sinks whit holes for the fans and the beer cans, sorry meant capacitors, so to hold those in place

    DSCF2276.jpgDSCF2277.jpg

    As fitted there will be a sheet of acrylic bolted to the bottom of the sinks whit holes for the fans and the beer cans, sorry meant capacitors, so to hold those in place

    DSCF2278.jpg

    As fitted the 2 circuit boards whit the 4 dudas on the low side diodes on top

    DSCF2279.jpg



    The amplifier will be on Class A till when one side turns on so much that the other side turn off the.
    To do that one need 8 A assuming a standard 8 Homes speaker 8 x 8=64W
    assuming a standard 4 Homes speaker 8 x 4 =36W
    assuming one has a pair of isobaric 8 X whatever one fill like = not enough data

    As the F5 will clip at about 2 volts from the rails assume 32 V swing up or down or better in and out (that is how a speaker move yes?)

    Remember this ?

    V
    A R
    W = A X V or V/R X V = 128 W if we where talking about DC instead of AC and considering the out part instead of in out in out that the cones do plus the fact that FiFi manufacturer's have a certain standard to measure amplifier's output power so that they can be pretty vague....

    Is any one able to give me a figure please ?
    Double that for 4 Homes and take a pinch of salt if you have a pair of Isobaric




  8. #48
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Liverpool

    Posts: 766
    I'm Sandro.

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    Big day tomorrow
    smoke test

    The 50 W may well be a 3 box duda whit transformers soft start and the first bunch of capacitors then 2 cables to carry the DC to the mono-blocks
    For now all is open air and whit a spare transformer because the Toroidy have not arrived

    DSCF2285.jpg
    I will be keeping this switched on for a while and increase the voltage to re form the capacitors
    Must say well pleased whit the soft start as it worked from Go NO SMOKE


    One channel heath sinks whit the transistors bolted down

    DSCF2281.jpg

    More or less this is one of the 50 W mono blocks

    DSCF2284.jpg

    They will be as small as possible and will be placed behind the speakers
    Each will have another 50000uF on each rail and speaker protection


    The input / Bias board of the F5 Turbo
    DSCF2283.jpg

    Just a few wires to solder and then I can start setting the Bias
    May get a few tunes out of it by evening.

  9. #49
    Join Date: Mar 2010

    Location: Sheffield

    Posts: 2,898
    I'm Simon.

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    Good luck
    Kuzma Stabi/S 12", (LP12-bastard) DC motor and optical tacho psu, Benz LP, Paradise (phonostage). MB-Pro, Brooklyn dac and psu, Bruno Putzeys balanced pre, mod86p dual mono amps, Yamaha NS1000m

  10. #50
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Liverpool

    Posts: 766
    I'm Sandro.

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    Tanks Simon

    We are listening to it as I type this
    Hfidog and pc141263 are here


    I am so pissed off …

    Bias set at 250 mV across the 0.5 R bias resistors sinks at 32 C and it sound bloody better than mine.

    Pictures later

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