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Thread: A Glue For Smoothing Down 5mm Of Corner Veneer?

  1. #1
    Join Date: Apr 2017

    Location: Cheshire UK

    Posts: 588
    I'm Martin.

    Default A Glue For Smoothing Down 5mm Of Corner Veneer?

    Im a bit gutted as Ive managed to damage the corner of one of my Minstrels while trying to get through my room in the pitch black...yeah clever eh

    It was only 1mm of bent down veneer and corner damage but I then carefully peeled back about 5mm of the veneer to have a look.probably too much as its quite a thick veneer I get OCD about things like this and perhaps I shouldnt have peeled it back so far as I will probably get a shadow crease. Its looking alright and I just need to do a bit of miniscule filling of the mdf and am only going to have about a millimetre of heavily creased veneer

    I need to smooth this veneer down with small block wrapped with paper but was wondering about an Araldite type quick bond glue. Its got to be tacky and setting as I hold the block down for a few minutes. I dont think I need heat and a block should smooth it down when I have prepared the under surface well

    I have some poundland epoxy mix but its a bit unreliable in critical situations. Obviously Im a bit reluctant to spend too much on glue when I only need a tiny bit.

    I am just pontificating and think I will be getting some shadow creasing which ever way I do this. I meed a good filler as well. Its so small I could dab paint in there but thats not really a filler. I have some milliput but will look for a smooth consitency filler for mdf.

    Oh well this may be the start of a project to completely re veneer a pair as I cant stand damaging things

    Any suggestions for filler and glue please?
    All the best
    Last edited by Minstrel SE; 19-05-2018 at 01:20.

  2. #2
    Join Date: Feb 2013

    Location: W Lothian

    Posts: 47,251
    I'm Grant.


    I'd try running g an iron over it first. Often it will have enough original glue on it. Then when cold you can give it a little file
    Grant ....

    I've said it before and I'll say it again: democracy simply-doesn't-work
    .... ..... ...... ...... ................... ..... ..... ..... ..... .....

  3. #3
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: West Wales

    Posts: 55
    I'm Alan.


    Not sure I quite understand the problem you have, but DONT use epoxy.
    Any 'squeeze out' will show when set and its difficult to stop it oozing...

    Try the warm iron thing first. Then there are propriety wood glues for veneer and even Resin W would be better.
    The norm for hiding small gaps or dents is a wax crayon of a similar colour.
    The problem with wood fillers (milliput etc.) is getting it to take colour once smoothed.
    If you have to, do a test on scrap wood before you do the job...

  4. #4
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Seaford UK

    Posts: 686
    I'm Dennis.


    I think I could be very helpful if I could see a picture - I've done a lot of this and know my materials and glues.

  5. #5
    Join Date: Apr 2017

    Location: Cheshire UK

    Posts: 588
    I'm Martin.


    Quote Originally Posted by Pharos View Post
    I think I could be very helpful if I could see a picture - I've done a lot of this and know my materials and glues.
    Thanks everyone. Ah yes I will get my old 9 mp camera on macro mode. Give me some time as Ive been out in the sun today and have a headache from the beer

    A moment of pure carelessness and bye bye sharp veneered corner

    I have just taken some shots and an uploading them to imgur at the moment...links to follow







    Pick a picture and the ones without the flash make it look less dramatic. Its not too bad and Ive probably lifted some of the mdf with the veneer. I should not have peeled the veneer back as it had only slammed about 1mm of the top veneer corner down...Ive given myself extra work to do now and I know that.

    The cabinet isnt out of alignment there..for some reason there is shaved out area on both units giving a lip on the back corner join. The veneer is not peeling down the side edge and that just seems to be the flash.

    I can see getting under there with a needle to smooth surfaces and spread glue. It could be one of those things that never looks right again but I will give it a damn good go and take my time

    The filler can be painted with black acrylic at the back. Im a bit sick of black ash but I will eventually get a pair veneered in oak or something similar
    Last edited by Minstrel SE; 19-05-2018 at 22:08.

  6. #6
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Seaford UK

    Posts: 686
    I'm Dennis.


    The Mother material seems to be chipboard, or at least a porous material, and this necessitates a glue which will flow into the wood and fill.

    I would use PVA, but most importantly stain the wood appropriately before hand; any glue will seal the surface and make staining impossible afterwards.

    So, use whatever stains you deem necessary for each damaged part. (dark brown and black?)
    It is best to carefully keep applying small amounts of a diluted and hence too light a stain, until getting a good match rather than risking too darker stain with a strong one an having to attempt to reduce the colour.

    When matched I would then apply PVA into all of the jointing area, wiping excess away from the clamped held finished jposition. With small areas such as you show you can hold or push with another piece/pieces of wood, the joint together and use a hair dryer to get it to dry off because the amount of contained water in the glue will be very low.
    Of course try not to burn it or move the joint before it sets.

    The resulting PVAed surface may be slightly shiny, and a fine wet or dry paper can be used to dull it. (600 ish.)

  7. #7
    Join Date: Apr 2017

    Location: Cheshire UK

    Posts: 588
    I'm Martin.


    What the white PVA wood glue? which I have a plastic bottle of. Im not sure I like that stuff as it seems to take ages to set and it doesnt seem to be heavy duty. I dont like the white wood glue

    How would I clamp that area. I was thinking of applying pressure with a wood block until it is set even if I have to hold it down for 10 minutes or so.

    The back isnt the problem as I can mask sand and paint that black at the corner.

    I want the glue to flow into the wood so wont mess with paint before Im getting a good bond I will get some filler that takes paint and it its only a minute amount of filler as you can see

    I just want to get the veneer back down that I peeled back then I will start masking and filling properly.

    Its one of those jobs that is going to require a lot of care and the sort of job I can botch up by over thinking it. I will get it sorted one way or another.

    Thanks and I might do a thread about others damaging equipment because I hate myself for it
    Last edited by Minstrel SE; 20-05-2018 at 17:50.

  8. #8
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Seaford UK

    Posts: 686
    I'm Dennis.


    Yes, PVA is white and water soluble, and heavy until it loses the water.
    Tannoy used it to glue on the girdacoustic cardboard right angles onto its cones in the dual concentrics.

    It is very strong, but 'clamping' would have IMO to be as you suggest, and a hair dryer will help evaporate the water.

    PVA will flow very well into the wood structure.
    I am not keen on fillers because they are either coloured, and rarely a match, or they take colour differently from the wood making it difficult to match the colour.

  9. #9
    Join Date: Feb 2013

    Location: Suffolk

    Posts: 186
    I'm guy.



    My instinct would be to try to get between the veneer and board with a scalpel blade to remove a little of the board before putting in the glue, just thinking that the veneer my sit a little "proud" if space isn't made for the fresh glue. PVA would be my choice, and clamp overnight.
    Finish off with a Liberon wax filler stick - range of colours available and did a good job filling in the lid marks on my LP12 plinth.
    LP12, Ittok, DV10X5, NVA Phono 2 (twin supply), NVAP50/A4O'S, LS5, Rega Ela mk1's.
    Sony CDP XB930.

  10. #10
    Join Date: Oct 2016

    Location: Bolton, England

    Posts: 1,380
    I'm Andrew.


    If I'm not very much mistaken, that isn't veneer at all - it's a vinyl wrap. Wooden veneer won't "peel back", it will just snap off.

    PVA wood glue is extremely strong, so there's no need to worry about that. It has the advantage of being water soluble so it's easy to wipe off any ooze-out. PVA would be my choice.

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