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Thread: Sorbothane for speaker isolation.

  1. #1
    Join Date: Jun 2016

    Location: Surfside Beach usa

    Posts: 128
    I'm charles.

    Default Sorbothane for speaker isolation.

    Just like to share my findings re sorbothane. I've recently moved to a house with a cross base floor i.e. wooden suspended, from a house with a concrete floor. I was quite happy with sound from my Spendor SP2/3r2 on concrete with Something Solid spiked stands. Moving to suspended floored house and bass was less defined - midrange a little coloured, if you will - top end still as good as before. Researched problem. There are some quite expensive sorbothane spike shoes out there but I think I've cracked it for little money. Already had spike shoes - think they were around 15 for 8. I have now purchased 8 'Isolate It' sorbothane discs same diameter as shoes which are 1" and 70 duro.I have a new floor and I've read reports of Sorbothane possibly marking floors so I simply stuck those felt type circular floor protectors on bottom of each sorbothane disc. So I have spike shoe then sorbothane disc then floor protector. Cost of sorbothane (8) - $16. Improvement? Bass is definitely better defined than before - distinct and controlled. Midrange is beautifully natural - less colouration. No change in top end (which was fine even on suspended floor). Thought I'd share this with you all.

  2. #2
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: A Strangely Isolated Place in Suffolk with far away trains passing by...

    Posts: 14,560
    I'm David.


    I come from the period when we 'spiked' everything as solid coupling was supposed to be better for all occasions! I was shaken a bit when I discovered that spiking the stands made eff-all difference to my geriatric talking-box Spendors (original 'BBC-style boxes were far more resonant than current BBC-derived models) and the wonderful ATC actives I had were too heavy to even consider spikes - plonk in place and they don't move ...

    My 'conditioning' does tend to generally recommend minimal cabinet movement in a loudspeaker, but if the sorbothane pads work for you and help you appreciate the reproduced music more as 'music' rather than a 'High Fidelity Sound' (I regard it as 'suspending disbelief), then go for it
    Tear down these walls; Cut the ties that held me
    Crying out at the top of my voice; Tell me now if you can hear me

  3. #3
    Join Date: Aug 2008

    Location: Suffolk, UK

    Posts: 1,474
    I'm Paul.


    I think there is no good or bad method as such. I think its all about mass, weight, construction and resonant frequencies. The issue is its not really possible for us (the general hifi'er) to calculate what compliance, weight, etc. we would need for the particular route of isolation chosen to solve the issue. What might work perfectly for some people may not work so well for others. Often with our only option is to shotgun test a particular form of isolation it can lead to very differing opinions to what is effective, or not.

    What we do often agree on is isolation does help a lot, it's just trying to work out what you need for any particular set up that's the noodle cooker.

  4. #4
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 41,249
    I'm Geoff.


    Quote Originally Posted by RothwellAudio View Post
    Anyway, the point I'm trying to make is that DIYers shouldn't be put off by lack of data to perform calculations. Sometimes calculations aren't necessary.
    Damn right.

    For instance, I've been told many times that you can't build a speaker without using TS Parameters. That's all very well, but I generally use vintage drivers for which such info is not available. I rely on old principles, educated guesses and what limited data can be found.

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