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Thread: My Technics SL1200 MKII journey

  1. #41
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Toulouse, France

    Posts: 6,562
    I'm Kevin.

    Default

    They work well. I have them on some UP-OCC silver cable.
    I am quite tempted to do the mini din conversion when I have to rewire my arm.
    Kevin

    Too busy enjoying the music....

    European loan coordinator for Graham Slee HiFi system components..

  2. #42
    Join Date: Mar 2018

    Location: Battle, East Sussex

    Posts: 162
    I'm Lee.

    Default My Technics SL1200 MKII journey

    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    Hi Lee,

    I think you'll achieve a notable upgrade by rewiring the arm, as I did it myself, years ago when I was using the stock arm with my Techy. Apart from improving the quality of the cable used, the goal really is to minimise the amount of connections/breaks in the signal path, which potentially has the most deleterious effect, so always bear that in mind.

    What's the armtube upgrade KAB are doing?

    One area you should also address, and which will offer a notable improvement is upgrading the stock headshell, as it's rather resonant and not of particularly great quality (really designed to partner DJ cartridges and entry-level MMs).

    A good, and relatively cheap upgrade, in that respect, would be this one from Ortofon (currently on sale with one left): https://www.audiovisualonline.co.uk/...adshell-mount/

    It's rather more solid and better engineered than the Technics and will allow your cartridge to perform to a higher sonic standard. Ditto with this from Jelco: https://snvinyl.co.uk/Jelco-HS-25-Magnesium-Headshell

    Honestly, you'll hear the difference instantly!

    Marco.
    Hi Marco,
    I will look into the headshell and maybe go for the Audio Technica
    AT-LH13OCC which is 13g.




    The KAB upgrade is just the silicon arm tube to line the internal part of the arm tube.

    Do you know if the Technics SL1200II arm can take up to the AT-LH180CC which is 18gm to use with the Shure SC35C cartridge.



    Does it need additional weight(s)on the stub to counterbalance it?

    Thanks

    Lee


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    It’s about the music
    70s Retro Yamaha YP800TT, CA1000Mk2, CT1010

  3. #43
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Hi Lee,

    No I wouldn't do it, as you'll seriously struggle at the other end trying to balance it out. A headshell like that, IMO, is overkill for your arm.

    At a push, you could go with the 13g one, but you still may need to use the auxiliary weight (little screw-in one that goes into the middle of the counterweight), to successfully balance it out.

    One other KAB item you may wish to try, if Kevin's still offering them, is the fluid damper, as that makes quite a difference to how the arm behaves with certain cartridges

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  4. #44
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Toulouse, France

    Posts: 6,562
    I'm Kevin.

    Default

    Don't forget there are two auxiliary weights now, the small one and a heavier version released with the newer SL1200.
    Kevin

    Too busy enjoying the music....

    European loan coordinator for Graham Slee HiFi system components..

  5. #45
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Ah, fair enough. I still feel it's a bit of a 'bodge', though, and not something I'd do.

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  6. #46
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Toulouse, France

    Posts: 6,562
    I'm Kevin.

    Default

    I agree, but it opens up other options...
    Kevin

    Too busy enjoying the music....

    European loan coordinator for Graham Slee HiFi system components..

  7. #47
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Sure, but I prefer using any given tonearm within its 'comfort zone', thus optimising it with cartridges it was designed to partner

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  8. #48
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: West Yorkshire

    Posts: 1,796
    I'm Stephen.

    Default

    I bought one of these (the base kit) for my project "stock SL1210" as I wanted to preserve the stock look but still get a bit of an upgrade in performance. I use the KAB phono plate on my SL1210 with mission 774 tonearm.
    I really just wanted the circular mounting plate. I replaced the supplied phono sockets with better quality Rhodium plated ones from a previous project and soldered the tonearm wires direct missing out the PCB to reduce the number of connections. Having to then use a pair of 90 degree phono plugs seems to defeat the object of this part of the project - the supplied ones were dreadful and it's very difficult to obtain good quality ones but as I say why introduce yet another connection?
    I came up with 2 options.

    1. If you have a TT wall shelf (I do) then you can make a cutout in the base board to allow straight connectors on your tonearm cable to exit the base of the deck at 180 degrees. Admittedly, if you have an Uber quality support base you may not want to go down this road.

    2. Use a cable with pre-soldered quality 90 degree plugs. I did this. There is a guy on eBay selling Van Damme cable with multiple termination options so I bought a length of LC-OFC with good quality 90 degree plugs




    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
    Always a little further

  9. #49
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: West Yorkshire

    Posts: 1,796
    I'm Stephen.

    Default

    With the Mission 774 arm and KAB phono plate I found the best results by taking the tonearm wires directly through the rear of the SL1210 base by drilling a small hole near the hinge. This keeps the wiring length to a minimum. Only downside is you need to desolder the connections to the KAB plate before removing the base.

    Using the KAB plate with the Mission 774 avoids having to have the tonearm cable soldered direct to the small arm base connection block. While this has the advantage of reducing the number of connections the soldered connections IME are pretty fragile and easily broken during setup or moving. Using fine tonearm wires from the connection block to the KAB plate avoids this and also allows for simple changes of tonearm cable.

    TBH the trickiest bit of fitting the KAB plate is relocating the screws into the threaded hole in the hinge support plate. A useful tip is to just remove 1 of the original screws and mount the KAB plate on one new long screw before removing the second screw otherwise you will be chasing the plate for ages.

    The somewhat ugly cut out in the base was to accommodate the tonearm wire when I had a Jelco TK850s installed. This is not needed if using the Mission 774 or stock Technics arm with the KAB plate.



    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by worrasf; 25-05-2021 at 21:32.
    Always a little further

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