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Thread: Frontend upgrade path

  1. #21
    Join Date: May 2010

    Location: Vancouver, Canada

    Posts: 2,105
    I'm Alex.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stratmangler View Post
    Use self adhesive bitumen damping material (your local automotive spares store can usually supply this), and use it to dampen the plinth, and the suspended sub-chassis.
    This stands to reason. When I think about the tiny rock bouncing around the microscopic groove, it is easy to imagine that any vibration must interfere with its trajectory. And since its trajectory is the signal, messing with that signal is only going to amplify and magnify the noise.

    So dampening is the way to go. Are there any photos on the net illustrating how does a well dampened underbelly of Systemdek IIX look like? I'd like to do it, but I don't want to mess things up.
    Don't you just hate it when you cannot detect where the post ends and a signature line begins?

    Alex.

  2. #22
    Join Date: Aug 2014

    Location: North Shields

    Posts: 27
    I'm Leslie.

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    Would you like to road test a set? Soundeck DF Damping Feet, previously know as Sound Damped Steel IsoFeet.

  3. #23
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 80,336
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    Hi Leslie,

    Welcome back. I'm afraid you'll need to renew your trade account before attempting to sell things again to members. I tried contacting you several times last year, when your account was due for renewal, sadly to no avail.

    Therefore, if you wish to start trading again, please PM me ASAP to arrange making the necessary payment, otherwise I'll have no option but to close your account. Many thanks!

    Marco.
    http://www.thestainedglasscompany.com

    "A man is a success if he gets up in the morning and gets to bed at night, and in between he does what he wants to do" -- Milan Kundera.

    BE HAPPY EVERYDAY!

  4. #24
    Join Date: May 2010

    Location: Vancouver, Canada

    Posts: 2,105
    I'm Alex.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stratmangler View Post
    I knew there was something I'd forgotten
    Remove the bottom plate and throw it away ...
    You know... of all the upgrades and crazy tweaks I've heard of throughout the years, this one sounded the most outlandish. Remove the bottom plate? Like, really? Why?

    So this evening, for a lark, I did just that. Removed the bottom plate and sat down to give it a listen, with a smirk. Played Van Morrison "Moondance".

    Holy molly! My jaw dropped to the floor! What the...

    I couldn't tear myself away from Systemdek. One LP after another, rediscovering the music, basking in the sonic marvels. How's this possible? A stupid lowly bottom plate robs this turntable of such precision. I'm stumped.
    Don't you just hate it when you cannot detect where the post ends and a signature line begins?

    Alex.

  5. #25
    Join Date: May 2010

    Location: Vancouver, Canada

    Posts: 2,105
    I'm Alex.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stratmangler View Post
    Use self adhesive bitumen damping material (your local automotive spares store can usually supply this), and use it to dampen the plinth, and the suspended sub-chassis.
    What's your opinion on placing Systemdek on the spikes? Now that I've removed the bottom plate and realized what a phenomenal upgrade it is, I'm wondering if further isolation via the spikes would improve things or not.
    Don't you just hate it when you cannot detect where the post ends and a signature line begins?

    Alex.

  6. #26
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 36,795
    I'm Geoff.

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    The base cover acts like a drum skin and resonates, as does the air it encloses within the turntable base.

  7. #27
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

    Posts: 570
    I'm Svend.

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    Alex - wow! Great to hear that that simple little tweak made so much difference. Makes me want to hurry up and sort that out on my Heybrook now.

    Geoff, would removing the base plate be preferable to just damping it with bitumen or sorbothane? I think that in the Heybrook the plinth is sufficiently braced that the flimsy base plate really doesn't add anything to the rigidity of the whole affair. But I wonder if the bitumen would stop the resonating sufficiently that I could just leave it on. Presently it's supporting the rather wide cones that the deck is sitting on, so if I took it off I'd have to use other feet or add blocks to the plinth. The other option, I suppose, is to cut a large hole in the base plate to open up the air space, and then dampen the remainder with bitumen.

    Alex, as for spikes, I think the impact of placing the deck on spikes depends in part on what component rack it's presently sitting on. In my case, the Heybrook is in a large armoire with particleboard shelving (not ideal, I know, but for now it's all we've got), and placing it on three small size Michell Tenderfeet cones made a very significant difference. If your rack has excellent isolation then you may notice a more subtle difference. You just have to try it. But it's a cheap experiment and is instantly reversible - just slip the cones under (hold 'em with double-sided tape if need be) and have a listen. If no change, then use them under your CD player or something else. For what you get, the Michell feet are a little pricey here in Canada -- Parts Connexion in Burlington has lots of other options for less money.

    http://www.partsconnexion.com/isolation_connex.html
    http://www.artech-electronics.com/canada/index.html

  8. #28
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 36,795
    I'm Geoff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Svend N View Post
    Geoff, would removing the base plate be preferable to just damping it with bitumen or sorbothane?
    In my opinion, removal of the base cover is likely to be the best option. Ensuring of course that precautions are taken to ensure that anything with live mains voltage is covered or inaccessible.

    The opened base/plinth sides can be lined with damping sheet, possibly to good effect.

    Rigidly fixed spikes or cones may be helpful. I'd not use double sided tape to fix them, as that introduces a small amount of compliance, defeating the intended rigidity. Glue on or screw on I'd say.

  9. #29
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

    Posts: 570
    I'm Svend.

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    Good advice - thanks Geoff. I'll have to do some mods to the base to make that work. Easy enough to do though. And yes, electricals all have to be protected -- there's no way I am taping an aluminum cone to the bottom of an open plinth with all that wiring there. One nudge and Poof! Bang! up in smoke.

  10. #30
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 36,795
    I'm Geoff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Svend N View Post
    there's no way I am taping an aluminum cone to the bottom of an open plinth
    Not tape, glue or screw for optimum results.

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