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Thread: suggested finish for mahogany plinth

  1. #31
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

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    Quote Originally Posted by Svend N View Post
    Interesting option -- do you have any issues with it raising the grain, being water based? Needs sanding between coats?
    No probs with loosened wood fibres as long as the surface is prepared well first. No sanding required between coats, although one coat is often enough.

    It's touch dry within half an hour and a second coat can go on within an hour. Application of good wax finishes the job.

    Simply apply following the grain and any excess that goes over edges can be wiped off with a finger without leaving marks.

    I used to french polish cabinet work, but this is easier and looks every bit as good.

  2. #32
    Join Date: Apr 2012

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    Quote Originally Posted by struth View Post
    i raise it with water and let it dry. then use old fine paper to just get the rise off and no more. it then shouldnt rise again much
    I've also used fine wire wool, followed by a fine (red) Scotchbrite pad, then flour paper (ultra fine sandpaper).

  3. #33
    Join Date: Oct 2015

    Location: Pulborough, West Sussex, UK

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    I'm actually using Rustins quick dry satin varnish at the moment, I'm applying it with lint free cloth in thin coats. Drying time is very fast and a light sanding between costs is all I'm doing. This is with 3 coats so far, I'm aiming for 10 for depth of finish.

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  4. #34
    Join Date: Apr 2012

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    Good stuff innit?

  5. #35
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

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    I'm Svend.

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    No probs with loosened wood fibres as long as the surface is prepared well first. No sanding required between coats, although one coat is often enough.

    It's touch dry within half an hour and a second coat can go on within an hour. Application of good wax finishes the job.

    Simply apply following the grain and any excess that goes over edges can be wiped off with a finger without leaving marks.

    I used to french polish cabinet work, but this is easier and looks every bit as good.

    Nice! I will have to try this some time. I've used some water based aniline stains in the past, and always had raised grain. I'd dampen the wood with distilled water first to raise it, let dry, then sand lightly, then stain. PITA.

    Phil -- lots of options here. Let us know what you choose and how it goes.

  6. #36
    Join Date: Oct 2015

    Location: Pulborough, West Sussex, UK

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    It's nice and smooth to apply and is giving a real depth without going too shiny. A couple more coats today and then it's decal time and then more varnish. Another good thing is being water based there's no evil fumes.
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  7. #37
    Join Date: Apr 2012

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    Rustins Satin Varnish is not necessarily a stain, although at can be obtained in various shades, I generally use clear.

  8. #38
    Join Date: Dec 2014

    Location: Surrey, UK

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    I'm Phil.

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    i found some images of mahogany boxes treated with danish oil on a woodworking forum. The results look good to me so I'm tempted to go with this



    Last edited by MarginWalker; 15-02-2018 at 10:03. Reason: terrible spelling!

  9. #39
    Join Date: Apr 2012

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    Just remember. You can't apply alternative finishes to oiled wood, should you decide you're not keen on the appearance. Lacquer, french polish and varnishes won't take properly and may react. Especially if the oiling is recent. A solvent clean may help, but there's no guarantee.

  10. #40
    Join Date: Dec 2014

    Location: Surrey, UK

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    I'm Phil.

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    Just remember. You can't apply alternative finishes to oiled wood, should you decide you're not keen on the appearance. Lacquer, french polish and varnishes won't take properly and may react. Especially if the oiling is recent. A solvent clean may help, but there's no guarantee.
    Thanks, Geoff. I'll be trying it on a piece of scrap first to see how it looks

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