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Thread: B&W DM7 Kenneth Grange classic

  1. #41
    Join Date: May 2017

    Location: Glasgow

    Posts: 231
    I'm Rohan.

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    On the DM7 front, I am about to let mine go, and as with the above DM5s, I think the ferrofluid needs replacing.
    Sad to see them go, despite Charles' opinions on them I happen to think they have a lot going for them.

  2. #42
    Join Date: Jun 2012

    Location: Portsmouth, UK

    Posts: 503
    I'm Steve.

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    Ye Gods, what is all this fretting about ferrofluid! And its viscosity.

    When it dries out, your tweeter clogs up and stops working. It's happened to me. It's a mixture of iron oxide and oily kerosene.

    http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?...e=manufacturer

    That's enough for about 5 tweeters. Clean out the old from the magnet gap and put in the fresh usually. Ocasionally you need to unsolder the voicecoil leads, but this is rare.

    It has a 2dB damping effect at either extreme and partially controls the low frequency resonance and provides some cooling to the voicecoil.

  3. #43
    Join Date: Feb 2019

    Location: Cambs

    Posts: 9
    I'm Frank.

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    Still retain DM7 mk.1 from 1978. Always driven by Meridian 105's.

    This speaker caused endless grief.
    The original Tweeter would 'blow' (wire-stress when threaded through the doped fabric diaphragm?) - and had a c.5kHz resonance (identified by Peter Tribe when visiting the factory).
    The Bass cone assembly would slap into the chamber rear & concertina/unravel the former/coil. The roll surround also originally too shallow.
    The ABR initially had a metal slug connector - spider to foam - it would detach/unglue itself - replaced by a flanged plastic version.

    Later took the precaution of getting 10 treble diaphragms (mk.2 polyamide - still mostly unused)- & noted some variation in coil windings (B&W considered that had no effect..). A residual problem was the kapton former could 'bubble' due to heating and attaching to the pole-piece (treble disappearing). There was no ferrofluid in the Mk.1 tweeters; wasn't aware it was in the mk.2.

    The Bass unit was rather a mass of coloration - later production had doping applied to the cone rear - though the source mostly resided behind that..
    Applying a thin epoxy 'veneer' from v/c winding end to cone eliminated much, and improved 'detail' (also has prevented further v/c buckling); but the bass unit is inherently 'sluggish' due to v/c mass (+ plastic former under the dust cover).
    By comparison a modern QUAD kevlar bass unit is a Revelation for detail/lack of coloration.

    Splitting the x-over had some advantage - as did slightly adjusting the treble resistors for output (the mass of bell-wire leading to the upper rotary adjuster being disconnected).

    After all that, it became relatively trouble-free; but driver replacements had easily added 50% to the original (20% discounted) price.

  4. #44
    Join Date: Feb 2021

    Location: Wales

    Posts: 3
    I'm Howard.

    Default Suitable amp for B&W DM&

    I've been using Yamaha C2/B2 combo since the late '70's. Only amps I could find to do the job properly.

  5. #45
    Join Date: Jun 2015

    Location: London/Durham

    Posts: 6,878
    I'm Lawrence.

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    Nice thread resurrection.

    Sent from my BKL-L09 using Tapatalk

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