The Heybrook TT2 info thread.

[shane]

I also noticed that the springs were in my mind a bit too compressed.

Assuming that the chassis isn't hard up against the top of the plinth, the compression of the springs depends solely on the weight they are carrying, which won't have changed. How compressed do you think they should be?

So, I've disconnected the retaining clip for the arm leads (Rega RB300 I had Incognito Rewired), stiff cables yes! AND relieved some of the compression on springs by turning the tuning bolts.
Well, the 'bounce' is back, so, I'll look to dial in the retaining clip for stiff cables
(any issues with not using the retaining clip, I don't see any hang up while not using it)?

A quick photo would be really useful here to get an accurate idea of how you have the lead set up at the moment. Normally with a stiff arm lead, the best way is to take it forward to a clip secured under the arm-board securing nut, then back in a straight run to another clip where the lead exits the plinth. Both clips should hold the lead as tightly as possible. The cable between the two clips should not be under any tension, but neither should it be too slack, otherwise it will try to push the chassis forwards.

My only concern is now that I've relieved the pressure on springs, the armboard is now not level with plinth (it's lower than plinth). If I tweak the springs to make the armboard level, the 'bounce' diminishes.
Might a course of action be to get the 'bounce' back and adjust the VTA with another shim to get the VTA correct?
I hope you can follow what I tried to explain?

No, the VTA doesn't come into this atall. Don't forget that the arm, armboard, chassis and platter are fixed in a rigid assembly, and what you're trying to do is to set up the suspension so that the whole assembly sits correctly in the plinth. The relationship between the arm and the platter (and hence the VTA) is fixed, regardless of how the whole assembly sits on the suspension. If the armboard is sitting low in the plinth then the platter will be as well. Changing the VTA by putting spacers under the arm only changes the height of the arm relative to the platter. It will have no effect on the suspension.

Hope this helps! It can be a bit mind-boggling trying to work out the various relationships at work here. the good thing about the TT2 though is that once you've got it sorted it will stay that way!

Incidentally, is your chassis steel or alloy?

[thegratefuldad]

Isn't that the same Shane it's exactly what he said above?

Sent from my BKL-L09 using Tapatalk

sorry, my attempt at humor failed!

[thegratefuldad]

Hi Shane,
I would have loved to sit down and have a few pints (1,2,3,etc) but being in USA New York and working the 12 steps in AA, is not the best idea. Your assistance has been wonderful. I'm really a bit overwhelmed by your kindness in helping out.
It seemed I hit the ENTER key too soon.
After relieving stress on the STIFF rca cables (Rega RB300 Incognito rewired) the BOUNCE came back to what I would consider acceptable levels. The springs are now not as compressed as I had them, in fact I started all over with left side adjustment of platter about 5mm from plinth as per the Heybrook TT2 instructions, I then worked on the 2 right side adjustments, attempting to get armboard (3/4 inch BIRCH) level with plinth and level bounce. Seems good to me! (I meant to send this current info but hit ENTER key with all that other stuff and got interrupted and forgot to update).
So, for a rather old TT with original parts, this Heybrook TT2 is pretty darn good all around.
I'm not sure if the chassis is steel or alloy. It's dark in color, not silver which I think would be steel, so I'll guess alloy.
Once again thanks! I guess I'll keep my 'tongue in cheek' comments to myself as reading them might not be taken properly. Yes, I knew it was the same Shane.
cheers
Neil

[shane]

That’s great! Sounds like you’ve got it about right. Now time to sit back and enjoy the music. What’s going on the platter next?

[thegratefuldad]

Hi Shane,
I'm going to dig deep and ask one last question on the TT2.
I notice the speed is slightly fast, (using the stroboscope disk and RPM apps).
Instead of 33.3 I'm getting 33.8 to 34.1 the highest.
Are there any 'adjustments' or tips that might work to slow it down slightly.
Being pretty newbie on this, not sure if I'm being nit-picky, but thought I'd ask anyway.
It's not like my 69 year old ears really care, but kind of a techie question.
thanks in advance either way.
I really have not went overboard on cartridge for the TT2, I'm awaiting a Goldring 1006 to be delivered.
I'm hoping to not go down the rabbit hole$$.
As far as vinyl, I have 100's (somewhere around 1000) old vinyl of various genres. However, about 20
years ago, I had a flood that destroyed most of the album covers, so they are in generic white album covers. Some LPs got warped but I did get out of it without too much destruction.
I really haven't even been spinning vinyl for 20 years or so while working in the computer field. I traveled a lot. I'm not particular about the kinds of music I listen to. I'm looking into sonically exciting vinyl LPs but the price of vinyl is outrageous these days. So hunting around for some LPs that are 'reasonable'.
Not looking to become a collector. Like I said once, my taste in music is kind of like food, I'll eat anything as long as it tastes good!
cheers once again

[shane]

Like any turntable with a synchronous motor, the speed of the motor is locked to the frequency of the mains supply and can’t be varied. The speed of the platter is then determined by the relative sizes of the motor pulley and the sun-platter which again can’t be varied, so there aren’t any adjustments that can vary the speed. The only think that could have a very slight effect is a build-up of deposits from the belt on the motor pulley. If this has happened it should be easily visible, and can be removed with a cotton bud and a suitable solvent such as IPA.

It’s difficult to measure speed accurately. I have little faith in phone apps after having tried three different ones on my iPhone and got three different answers! A strobe disk will tell you if the turntable is running slow or fast relative to mains frequency, but if it is, there’s not a lot you can do about it.

From what I remember, the UK market TT2s did run very slightly fast because when we calculated the correct pulley diameter, a slight error was introduced because we hadn’t specified the belt at that point so didn’t take into account the belt thickness. The US market pulleys were a different size due to the fact that you use 60Hz mains over there so the motor runs faster, but the same thing could well have happened. It’s not a fault as such, more a design error!

Unless you are blessed (or possibly cursed) with perfect pitch, it’s not going to make much difference!

[thegratefuldad]

Now I will just go enjoy the music........a big thank you Shane

you are a nice guy
I appreciate it

[shane]

[Wakefield Turntables]

I just joined the club should be a fun journey.

[shane]

Hope so!

is that the one that just sold on eBay?