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Thread: The Heybrook TT2 info thread.

  1. #51
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Sunny (occasionally) Devon

    Posts: 1,713
    I'm Shane.

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    No idea what that white stuff is. Looks like chewing gum?

    It looks like this has been happening for a while because of the score marks on the motor shaft, so one has to wonder how worn the pulley bore is.

    I’d suggest getting both scrupulously clean first, then seeing exactly how loose the pulley is on the shaft. If it’s a sliding fit but not sloppy and wobbly, then put a couple of drops of Loktite 648 in the pulley bore, fit it and leave for 24 hours. Make sure it stays out of the motor bearings! (You could use superglue but you run the risk of it setting before you’ve got the pulley in the correct position.)

    If the pulley is so worn that it wobbles let me know and I’ll dig out my spare one.
    Time flies like an arrow.
    Fruit flies like a banana.

  2. #52
    Join Date: Aug 2012

    Location: London

    Posts: 335
    I'm Surayne.

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    Thanks Shane. The odd bit is actually metal - the photo has a lot of glare from flash I think. It may be that someone attempted a repair previously.

    As the motor shaft is worn is it worth considering replacing the motor altogether?

  3. #53
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Sunny (occasionally) Devon

    Posts: 1,713
    I'm Shane.

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    It’s really quite hard to imagine what’s happened here. If the white stuff is metal and there was room for it between the pulley and the shaft, then presumably the pulley is unusable.

    i just checked in my box of bits in the shed, and the spare pulley I remembered being there (haven’t looked in there for years) is firmly attached to an unused motor.

    If by chance your pulley is still a decent sliding fit on the motor shaft try the superglue trick, you’ve nothing to lose. If that doesn’t work, then we can come to an arrangement with my spare motor and pulley.
    Time flies like an arrow.
    Fruit flies like a banana.

  4. #54
    Join Date: Feb 2022

    Location: New York USA

    Posts: 9
    I'm Neil.

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    Hello,
    I've been trying to get in touch with Shane and will give it a try here.
    If Shane does read this:
    My name is Neil Thegratefuldad
    I have acquired a Heybrook TT2 and have a question that you may be the only person that can answer.
    I've attempted asking some HIFI stores but they don't know.
    I'm looking for compatible suspension springs for my Heybrook TT2.
    I do see spring upgrades for Thorens and AR suspension tables at a site called vinylnirvana.
    MIght you be able to recommend a spring set that can be used to replace the ones in my current TT2?
    That's it,
    btw my e-mails thegratefuldad1@verizon.net or neilthegratefuldad@gmail.com
    sorry but I've been looking for a thread that might work to contact you.
    thanks in advance

  5. #55
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Sunny (occasionally) Devon

    Posts: 1,713
    I'm Shane.

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    Hi Neil, you found me!

    Finding replacement springs for a TT2 isn’t going to be easy as they were made specifically for that turntable and the last one was built the best part of 30 years ago. The only possible source of supply would be Guy at Puresound, who is a AoS member. He bought up all the TT2 spares when Heybrook went bust.

    My question for you is, why do you want to replace them? Are they missing or damaged?
    Time flies like an arrow.
    Fruit flies like a banana.

  6. #56
    Join Date: Feb 2022

    Location: New York USA

    Posts: 9
    I'm Neil.

    Default

    Hi Shane,
    I feel like a bum hunting you down.
    The power of the web is wild.
    I guess we can thank Al Gore for that (I made myself laugh).
    The reason is, I don't think the 'bounce' I'm getting is anything near what I see in some of the
    videos on the web. When I tap the platter (label area to the right of the spindle), not much 'bounce'.
    it does but slight. If I give it some pressure it does a little more. I was just thinking that the springs might
    be 'weak' over all this time. I'm thinking that new springs might improve it. Then again, I might be making more of this than it is. I'm not hearing skips or any detrimental (not even sure what it would be) effects. The 3 or 4 sets of springs I see on that site are not that expensive so thought it might be worth a try. But which set? Your thoughts/recommendations would be appreciated. Waste of time? Don't worry about it? I'll be honest with you, I did get a nice reply back from the website and they offered (if I mail them one of my springs), they could suggest which set might work if at all. I know this is a way old TT but probably my last. Should I forget this 'bounce' thing and just enjoy the music ....which btw ....for a TT of this age is quite good! Just shows that good engineering works. It was a blast to hear/read from you that you actually worked and created these things! Might I ask, how long ago? What else have you done in the audio world? I'm 69 been into the audio stuff (on and off) since around 1968. Not sure which is a worse addiction, audio or drinking/drugging (joshing here....kind of). That's it. Are you still in the business?

  7. #57
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Sunny (occasionally) Devon

    Posts: 1,713
    I'm Shane.

    Default

    Really happy to help, Neil. Even after forty years I still get a kick out of the fact that there are people out there still enjoying something I created so long ago.

    The turntable should have a good even free-moving bounce, and won’t be performing at its best if it doesn’t, but if there’s a problem it’s unlikely to be the springs. They’re very lightly loaded and I’ve not come across any others that have sagged or deteriorated in any way. It’s far more likely that the arm lead needs setting up correctly. I don’t know which arm you have but many of the arms supplied with the TT2 had stiff cables which were quite hard to dress correctly. Also, the suspension may be out of adjustment and the springs out of alignment, both of which are easy to resolve.

    I have heard of people fitting Linn springs to a TT2, but I can’t see how they would improve things since they won’t fit on the spring seats and they’re rated for a much heavier platter assembly, so would push the suspension resonance up into the lower end of the audio band. If you put Ferrari springs in a Chevy, it won’t handle like a Ferrari, and it won’t handle much like a Chevy either!

    If you haven’t got one already, download the instruction manual here. It tells you how to set everything up correctly. https://www.vinylengine.com/library/heybrook/tt2.shtml . You’ll need to join Vinyl Engine, but it’s free and a very useful resource. Also, have a look at some of the links earlier in this thread where others have had similar issues.

    Don’t hesitate to get in touch if you need any more help. Every TT2 should be a source of delight!

    You and I are near enough contemporary, I was 70 in January, so I guess we’ll have grown up with similar influences in music and hi-fi. I haven’t been involved in the HiFi industry since the mid 80’s, so I’m pretty out of touch with newer stuff, but I still love the music and fooling around with DIY.
    Time flies like an arrow.
    Fruit flies like a banana.

  8. #58
    Join Date: Feb 2022

    Location: New York USA

    Posts: 9
    I'm Neil.

    Default The 'bounce' is back, but

    Hi Shane,
    Well, not sure where to start this next msg.
    btw- I had downloaded the Heybrook TT2 instruction manual a few weeks ago. In fact, during those searches is when I first read your posts and there began this journey.
    I was amazed at how much information is out there if you search long enough.

    OK, I do have the red marks on springs aligned so I think I'm OK there.
    BUT as per this guy SHANE explained to me:

    "It’s far more likely that the arm lead needs setting up correctly. I don’t know which arm you have but many of the arms supplied with the TT2 had stiff cables which were quite hard to dress correctly."

    I also noticed that the springs were in my mind a bit too compressed.

    So, I've disconnected the retaining clip for the arm leads (Rega RB300 I had Incognito Rewired), stiff cables yes! AND relieved some of the compression on springs by turning the tuning bolts.
    Well, the 'bounce' is back, so, I'll look to dial in the retaining clip for stiff cables
    (any issues with not using the retaining clip, I don't see any hang up while not using it)?

    My only concern is now that I've relieved the pressure on springs, the armboard is now not level with plinth (it's lower than plinth). If I tweak the springs to make the armboard level, the 'bounce' diminishes.
    Might a course of action be to get the 'bounce' back and adjust the VTA with another shim to get the VTA correct?
    I hope you can follow what I tried to explain?

    thanks in advance
    Neil
    Last edited by thegratefuldad; 24-03-2022 at 21:50.

  9. #59
    Join Date: Jun 2015

    Location: London/Durham

    Posts: 6,869
    I'm Lawrence.

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    Quote Originally Posted by thegratefuldad View Post
    Hi Shane,


    BUT as per this guy SHANE explained to me:

    "It’s far more likely that the arm lead needs setting up correctly. I don’t know which arm you have but many of the arms supplied with the TT2 had stiff cables which were quite hard to dress correctly."

    Isn't that the same Shane it's exactly what he said above?

    Sent from my BKL-L09 using Tapatalk

  10. #60
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Sunny (occasionally) Devon

    Posts: 1,713
    I'm Shane.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lawrence001 View Post
    Isn't that the same Shane it's exactly what he said above?

    Sent from my BKL-L09 using Tapatalk
    Yup. As far as I’m aware, I’m still me.
    Time flies like an arrow.
    Fruit flies like a banana.

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