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Thread: The Heybrook TT2 info thread.

  1. #41
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

    Posts: 792
    I'm Svend.

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    Hi Surayne,

    Sorry that you're not getting any answers to your question here. I'm not sure anyone has ever tried putting an aluminium armboard on a Heybrook, but I could be wrong. Personally I would be concerned that it might resonate, unless you damped it with something like sticky sorbothane. I recall Shane, the designer of this wonderful deck, mentioning that they tested many different materials (presumably all woods of different types) and decided that the birch ply sandwich had the best sound quality. It might be wise to follow that same path here. If you're thinking of the aluminium just for aesthetics, then you might be able to glue a very thin sheet of it on top of the birch ply. That could look quite sharp. If you stained the edges of the wood underlay (birch ply) in black, you would have a very clean design.

    Not sure if this is helpful or not. Let us know how you make out with this project.

    Best,
    Svend

  2. #42
    Join Date: Aug 2012

    Location: Surrey

    Posts: 319
    I'm Surayne.

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    Thank you Svend. The idea was part aesthetic but also I wondered if a more rigid armboard would change the sound for the better - newer LP12s have a single-piece cast subchassis and armboard which is where the idea came from. If we give it a try I'll report back.

  3. #43
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Sunny (occasionally) Devon

    Posts: 1,612
    I'm Shane.

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    First time Iíve revisited this thread for a while so I missed this, and I guess by now youíve either tried it out or gone for a different solution. If so, how did it go?

    Certainly itís an interesting idea. The first thought that springs to mind is how you would implement an alloy board. If from sheet, then some sort of spacer will be needed to make up for the difference in thickness. The size of this and itís contact area with the board and the chassis will both have an effect, as would the thickness of the sheet itself. It would also probably be necessary to apply some sort of damping, so already youíve got a whole load of variables to play with.

    Do you remember the old Celestion SL600? An interesting device with a cabinet made from Aerolam. They also did a normal version, the SL6, with a conventional cab made from either MDF or chipboard, not sure which. Comparisons between the two were startling. Knocking the standard cab with s knuckle gave exactly the noise youíd expect, but knocking the 600 cab was like knocking a block of solid metal. No noise, just sore knuckles.

    Aerloam is a product used for making cabin floors in aircraft. It consists of a honeycomb of alloy foil with a thin layer of alloy sheet bonded to each side, giving a very light rigid structure, as here:

    http://www.cxdinternational.com/popu...BDHEXA1224.jpg

    Not that easy to get hold of, and a bitch to work with but it would be a really interesting way to make an arm board!

    A similar effect could be obtained by glueing sheets of aluminium either side of a balsa wood core. Much easier to work with, and probably just as light and rigid.

    I suppose if you were really adventurous, you could use something like that to build a complete unit to replace the arm board and chassis in one go. If I was ever to be in a position to design another turntable Iíd be looking at that sort of thing....
    Time flies like an arrow.
    Fruit flies like a banana.

  4. #44
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Sunny (occasionally) Devon

    Posts: 1,612
    I'm Shane.

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    .
    Time flies like an arrow.
    Fruit flies like a banana.

  5. #45
    Join Date: Aug 2012

    Location: Surrey

    Posts: 319
    I'm Surayne.

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    Apologies for the long silence but life gets in the way of hifi sometimes, unfortunately! The aluminium armboard is complete and now mounted to his deck, along with an SME 3009 and a Denon DL160. Unfortunately we ran into a problem when we got the deck running - the belt pulley seems to be very loose on the motor spindle, and this means that the speed of the deck is all over the place as the pulley slips. There seems to have been a metal piece holding the two together which looks worn out.

    Any ideas on how to secure the pulley to the motor spindle?

  6. #46
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 41,306
    I'm Geoff.

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    Use a lathe to overbore the pulley hole. Insert and bond an undersized bush, then drill and ream the bush to be a tight fit to the motor shaft and superglue it on.
    "when common sense, logic and plausibility are excluded. All that remain are foolishness and lies"

  7. #47
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Sunny (occasionally) Devon

    Posts: 1,612
    I'm Shane.

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    Strange. From what I remember, the pulley was just a push fit onto the motor shaft. I donít recall there being any other part holding them together. Any chance of a photo?
    Time flies like an arrow.
    Fruit flies like a banana.

  8. #48
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Sunny (occasionally) Devon

    Posts: 1,612
    I'm Shane.

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    Does this one have a TPS? If not, I may have a spare 50Hz pulley in the shed. If there is any wear, it’s going to be the alloy pulley rather than the steel motor shaft that’s worn.
    Time flies like an arrow.
    Fruit flies like a banana.

  9. #49
    Join Date: Aug 2012

    Location: Surrey

    Posts: 319
    I'm Surayne.

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    Use a lathe to overbore the pulley hole. Insert and bond an undersized bush, then drill and ream the bush to be a tight fit to the motor shaft and superglue it on.
    Sounds out of the realms of home DIY! Shane, that's very kind of you. I'll post some pics when I get them from him and hopefully the issue will be clearer. The deck is a pre-TPS version.

  10. #50
    Join Date: Aug 2012

    Location: Surrey

    Posts: 319
    I'm Surayne.

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    Pictures of the motor spindle and the bit that came out of the pulley. The pulley itself looks pretty unremarkable.





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