Originally Posted by
agk
Grant that was a pair of Linn Kan 1 and the spike directly under the speakers worked a treat for my ears.
The dinky little telly is plenty big enough for the wife to watch hollyoaks. I could live without it tbh.
I grew up with the pictured 3090's in my fathers system so they and their relatives seem normally sized to me.
The 2075 has a simpler circuit which for me makes up for the poor tweeter.
Thanks all.
A spike through Linn Kans improves them to my ears... Works for the undead apparently too...
Always thought the 2075's would be good one to try rebuilding the crossovers with better caps and replacing the tweeter with something better. They will likely be full of ancient "Elcaps", thin wire and push on connectors....
My mate used his with a Sugden A48II and they still sounded great! Effortlessly extended bass with decent grip but a bit of a sting in the treble is how I remember them...
Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)
Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco